Ratrod bicycle trailer and soapbox

[Son of Kradus]

I must admit I read the whole post again today and towards the end was saying to myself....:he hasnt enough adjustment, no camber or steering angle adjustments....I get further on in the post and realized I'd forgotten its a trailer buggy....not a motorised or downhill soapbox racer!
So yes your system will work.
Absolutely in love with your lathe work and am so jealous youve got access to machine cutting to make them parts!
Its turning out fantastic and youve given me inspiration to make another powered go cart of some description!.... in fact if someone throws one of them real giant supermarket trolleys out or uses it to take home and just leave it on the street....well thats gonna be my opportunity! A shopping trolley Go cart! Of some description.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Ugh I don't know which is worse on the mountain bike, the shopping cart, or the flip flops

 

[musclebikemadman]

Ugh I don't know which is worse on the mountain bike, the shopping cart, or the flip flops

Grown men should only wear flip flops to the beach and even then it is questionable. No one wants to see your crusty toes

 

[Ulu]

Here, It is illegal to drive in flip flops. Lots of folks here evidently don’t know/care yet. Lots of bare toes, of every gender id.

For me it’s always boots.
Sometimes Nike mid-top sneakers for cycling. Boots in the shop for sure.

I won’t weld and grind without boots. I have given myself a hot-foot before, welding in lo-tops.

 

[Son of Kradus]

Here, It is illegal to drive in flip flops. Lots of folks here evidently don’t know/care yet. Lots of bare toes, of every gender id.

For me it’s always boots.
Sometimes Nike mid-top sneakers for cycling. Boots in the shop for sure.

I won’t weld and grind without boots. I have given myself a hot-foot before, welding in lo-tops.

I moved on to gumboots, Got sick of the hot toe drops when welding, however I still weld in whatever im wearing, even PJ's and dressing gown!!!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I must admit I read the whole post again today and towards the end was saying to myself....:he hasnt enough adjustment, no camber or steering angle adjustments....I get further on in the post and realized I'd forgotten its a trailer buggy....not a motorised or downhill soapbox racer!
So yes your system will work.
Absolutely in love with your lathe work and am so jealous youve got access to machine cutting to make them parts!
Its turning out fantastic and youve given me inspiration to make another powered go cart of some description!.... in fact if someone throws one of them real giant supermarket trolleys out or uses it to take home and just leave it on the street....well thats gonna be my opportunity! A shopping trolley Go cart! Of some description.
View attachment 254214View attachment 254215

Yeah maybe I should get rid of the word 'soapbox' in the title, it is confusing.
It should be: Ratrod bicycle trailer / hard cart.

I must admit I read the whole post again today and towards the end was saying to myself....:he hasnt enough adjustment, no camber or steering angle adjustments....I get further on in the post and realized I'd forgotten its a trailer buggy....not a motorised or downhill soapbox racer!
So yes your system will work.
Absolutely in love with your lathe work and am so jealous youve got access to machine cutting to make them parts!
Its turning out fantastic and youve given me inspiration to make another powered go cart of some description!.... in fact if someone throws one of them real giant supermarket trolleys out or uses it to take home and just leave it on the street....well thats gonna be my opportunity! A shopping trolley Go cart! Of some description.
View attachment 254214View attachment 254215

Thanks! Yeah I should change this threads title to: "Ratrod bicycle trailer / hard cart build" instead of soapbox


I personally never choose flipflops, really dislike em, unless there is a fly/mosquito to crush.

I always wear barefoot shoes: I love em, you can really feel the path you are walking on.

My newer Feelmax shoes for colder weather.
I use the old black ones for commuting in wet and cold weather now. They are about 5 years old and not pretty, but still going strong!

Leguano shoes, these are nearly two years old. There is some wear, but nothing shocking.
Before I always wore 'pretty' shoes and they last about 6 months to a year and then the seam of the soles started delaminating...

For longer (100+ km) cycling trips I would advise shoes with a little more stable sole or larger pedals. Or else your feet are getting tired after a while.

 

[curtisfox]

Yeah maybe I should get rid of the word 'soapbox' in the title, it is confusing.
It should be: Ratrod bicycle trailer / hard cart.

Thanks! Yeah I should change this threads title to: "Ratrod bicycle trailer / hard cart build" instead of soapbox


I personally never choose flipflops, really dislike em, unless there is a fly/mosquito to crush.

I always wear barefoot shoes: I love em, you can really feel the path you are walking on.

View attachment 254259
My newer Feelmax shoes for colder weather.
I use the old black ones for commuting in wet and cold weather now. They are about 5 years old and not pretty, but still going strong!

View attachment 254260
View attachment 254261
Leguano shoes, these are nearly two years old. There is some wear, but nothing shocking.
Before I always wore 'pretty' shoes and they last about 6 months to a year and then the seam of the soles started delaminating...

For longer (100+ km) cycling trips I would advise shoes with a little more stable sole or larger pedals. Or else your feet are getting tired after a while.

A big hot slag will burn right through them nylon shoes, deep hole in the foot, forever to heal.......Curt

 

[Oldbiscuit]

A big hot slag will burn right through them nylon shoes, deep hole in the foot, forever to heal.......Curt

That’s why I weld bare foot!!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

A big hot slag will burn right through them nylon shoes, deep hole in the foot, forever to heal.......Curt

Wow, I believe you. I'll keep that in mind. I only welded with 'steel nose' working shoes, but never thought about welding with these... yet.




We have a working steering link system. Needs a little tweaking and finishing. But very happy. It steers very easy.

I hope the video works.

 

[Son of Kradus]

Looks great, works really well! love the fold away draw bar!
I can also see the adjustment holes so you can tweak it further when testing!

 

[Ulu]

I don’t know how the scrub angles are going to work out for you but it looks like you’ve got a certain amount of Ackerman built-in.

It’s looking really good, and I think I have a cheap solution for you if those front axles bend.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Looks great, works really well! love the fold away draw bar!
I can also see the adjustment holes so you can tweak it further when testing!

Yeah about the foldaway... I am planning to fabricate a grille with headlights, so not sure if it stays foldaway.
Thank you!

I don’t know how the scrub angles are going to work out for you but it looks like you’ve got a certain amount of Ackerman built-in.

It’s looking really good, and I think I have a cheap solution for you if those front axles bend.

Thanks! And I'm all ears if you have tips. But I'm stubborn as well


Tires came in! And the tire-removal-spoons I found second hand somewhere.

Rims front and back will be RAL 3020.
I went to visit a different powdercoater and he asked for 5 times the amount as the previous one! So I am waiting patiently till the shop opens the 3rd of januari at the old coater. The old coater works with older leftover powders, that is why it is a bit cheaper I guess.

Now planning/working on the steering system. I have a great surprise ratrod idea, but I gotta figure it out on paper first.

Rims are off!

Self adjusting bearings for the steering shaft.

New tires! A little bit wider than the previous.

 

[Ulu]

Thanks! And I'm all ears if you have tips. But I'm stubborn as well

I’ll wait to see if you bend them first.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I’ll wait to see if you bend them first.

This makes me smile! I won't bend them, promise Or I'll just bend them in photoshop to get to your idea!

Got a little action plan for the steering system. Not all details worked out yet, but I am keeping options open.

The base plan is a steering shaft in the bottom/chassis:

Drawing on red paper was not a bright idea... the notes on the other hand!

Bearings with a little angle adjustment. They are a little larger and heavier than I anticipated, but thats okay.

I will weld two of these lightweight blue beams in different sections of the chassis.

Removing the tires and rims.

Ready for a powdercoat next week! All steel rims.


Still lots to do, but things will move a little faster after the rims are back from the coater.

 

[Son of Kradus]

Lol at the red paper sketchs, got a giggle out of it!
Them tires gonna look sick when done,

 

[Ulu]

OK, here is the idea that I came up with.

Take a Bendix style rear hub, remove the right cone and small bearing. Remove sprocket, clutch, brake shoes and the reaction arm. Put the axle into the driver (drive screw) and weld it on the backside.

Weld that driver to your steering upright. This gives you a broad base that will provide a secure connection and spread the load on the upright.

Then just assemble the large bearing, the hub, the small bearing, and the small cone.

That should hold about 3 times as much weight as what you have now.

Mind you, I have not tried this myself but I believe that it will work.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

But I'm stubborn as well

A stubborn Dutchman? Unheard of.
I refuse to believe it.

 

[Ulu]

I don’t have a Bendix handy but I just took apart a Chinese clone from Safcon.

I forgot how much clearance there is between the driver and the axle, and you will want to shim this up tight.

In order to get the axle firmly attached, but not destroy the large bearing surface, I suggest that the axle be tack welded into the small cone and then insert the axle and cone into the driver and weld cone to driver.

I hope this makes sense without a diagram.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I don’t have a Bendix handy but I just took apart a Chinese clone from Safcon.

I forgot how much clearance there is between the driver and the axle, and you will want to shim this up tight.

In order to get the axle firmly attached, but not destroy the large bearing surface, I suggest that the axle be tack welded into the small cone and then insert the axle and cone into the driver and weld cone to driver.

I hope this makes sense without a diagram.

Thanks Ulu, I get your idea. Stubborn as I am, I'll keep you idea on the option table.

So I went to Michael the crazy German, awesome powdercoater.
The wheels turned out great. A little rough due to the previous rust, but I'm fine with that.

I mounted the rear tires, but both valves were bad. The air came out between the brass valve and the rubber tube... I contacted the supplier... now wait.

And I laced the front wheels, only trueing remains.

The leakage:

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Managed to cut some profiles for the chassis and steering shaft today:

Bearing at the back. You get the idea.

Measuring with the tub.

Result, clamped, not welded.