BO15 Retro Mullet Ratpacker - 90’s steel MTB // 2X9 // disc conversion // mullet bike

[JRobert]

So it’s been a while since I’ve updated this. Got a bit sidetracked on two other projects. An old rod brake bike that I bought, repaired and resold. Then a Bianchi SASS that I bought because the price was too good. Now back to the GF. Here are the latest things I’ve done:


Ive had this camp blanket that I love. Thought it would be a nice add so I experimented mounting it under my top tube. Fits nice and looks cool with these leather straps. This will be part of the build for sure. Will probably opt for another location as I have an old messenger bag that I’m hoping to turn into a frame bag.

I installed the Surly fork and did some tool making to install the crown race and star nut. For the race press, I bought a 2’ length of PVC that fit perfect on top of the race. A couple smacks and it set on nice and flush. For the star nut, I used a headset bolt that I stuck inside 3/8 socket adapter and connected that to a big 32mm socket. (Pic in next post)

I built up the rest of the bike with all my parts, removing annoying things like gear indicators. (Pic in next post)
The crank I have gave me a bit of trouble as there is no way to grab the chainring bolt with Park chainring tool. A little help from a flat file did the trick. (Pic in next post)

Full build and test ride is complete and it rides well. Can’t wait to get it off road. Only concern was the rear wheel. It had a hop that I was willing to deal with but the test ride produced a lot of creaking spokes. I was worried that the first off-road ride would break a few spokes, so I bought a new rear wheel off eBay. Hand built XT disc hub with a CR18 rim thats v-brake compatible and only cost me $80 (Pic in next post)

 

[JRobert]

Here are the pics that go with the last update. For some strange reason, anytime I copy/paste text into a post and then add images, I get an error. The site locks up and quits loading on my end. Weird.

 

[JRobert]

Here are is how the build looked last week.

Ive added a Wald basket to the front with the bar brackets spread open to fit around the 31.8 bars. I'll likely add some thin rubber around the bar and wire tie this to keep it secure. For the fork mounts, I'm ordering some aluminum rods that I'll hammer the ends flat, drill holes, bend and attach. Thinking I may plasti dip the basket and may look for some reclaimed wood or something to jazz that up a bit. (more to come)

Ive been struggling to find the right fit front wheel (27.5 x 40mm internal width rim, on 100mm spacing disc hub) so I rattle canned the 26" wheel for now. The red looked cool, but wont match the final aesthetic if I stick with 26" up front.

Ive since stripped all parts and continue to prep the frame for paint. Just waiting on Spray.bike paints new inventory to arrive. Still planning a Yuengling can inspired paint scheme. More to come on that.

 

[kingfish254]

You can't copy and paste pics unless their file size is pretty small. You need to use the Attach Files button in the bottom left and select the files directly from your device storage.

 

[JRobert]

You can't copy and paste pics unless their file size is pretty small. You need to use the Attach Files button in the bottom left and select the files directly from your device storage.

I’m not copy/pasting the pictures. Every time I’m using the attach button. I’ve tried from my phone, iPad and laptop. Tried reducing file sizes and even tried a different browser. The problem occurs when I copy/paste text into the post and try to add photos. Works fine if I simply write in the post and add pics, but that thread from Monday wouldn’t allow more than 1 pic or it would show an error. Only thing I can figure out is there is some glitch on the site (or this thread) around copy/pasting text from Microsoft Word or Notes app. Oh well, back to the build instead of I.T. Ha

 

[JRobert]

Final prep work on the frame. Still some bits of primer showing but this is good enough.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Mmmmm brassy brazes...

 

[Indyjps]

I like the yeungling color scheme, if youre not confident in the fade, how about an interesting curve. Bring the paint transition to a point at the top of the top tube and either concave or convex as it wraps around the side of the tube. 3M pinstripers tape is very flexible.

Great build with great parts.

 

[JRobert]

I like the yeungling color scheme, if youre not confident in the fade, how about an interesting curve. Bring the paint transition to a point at the top of the top tube and either concave or convex as it wraps around the side of the tube. 3M pinstripers tape is very flexible.

Great build with great parts.

Yeah. Ive been considering that. It would be cool to connect back to the can art and even create the cream oval with maroon boarder on the head tube. Just feel like the hard lines of the can art may give it too much of a vintage 70’s look. I kind of want to stick to that 90’s look that the fade and provides. I guess I have time to play around with some ideas while I wait for the paint to be back in stock.

 

[JRobert]

Added one last frame detail before I can paint. I wanted to have the option of one more bottle cage on the underside of the downtube like most modern steel bikepackers. I've installed rivnuts, in old steel racing frames back in my bike shop days, but had always done it with a rivnut gun. Saw a trick on YouTube for a home made version, so I lined up where I wanted the bottle cage and drilled out holes. Unfortunately the holes I drilled were a hair too large. Note to anyone reading this... drill smaller and carefully round file until you need to lightly press the rivnut into the frame. You actually need something for the knurled edges to just barely catch on. To solve, I ended up buying the next size up. They require a bigger bolt and will likely cause some issues installing most water bottle cages, but I'll cross that bridge after paint. For now, installed them with my home made tool.

Based on advice from a few of you (thanks!) Ive settle on paint from Montana Cans. There is an art supply warehouse 15 mins away, so I'll head there this week and aim to paint next weekend. Since it's 95 degrees out, I spent some time mocking up my paint. I love how it came out, but it may be a bit too ambitious for my first paint job. Will likely require a fair amount of masking. Check it out below and let me know what you think.

Besides all the masking, my biggest concern is how gold will cover over other colors. Has anyone used Montana Gold - Metallic Gold Matt? My assumption is (after primer) I should paint the Cream, then Gold, then Maroon and finish with the black. Masking after each step. Do I need to wet sand where the new coat will stick onto the under coat? Should I only paint areas that the under coats will show or full coat? Should I be at all concerned with a Matt Gold covering the cream?

The lettering, stars, head badge and eagle will likely be decals applied and clear coated over. I also don't plan to use the actual Yuengling label. May try to come up with my own logo. Maybe even get a true head badge made.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Added one last frame detail before I can paint. I wanted to have the option of one more bottle cage on the underside of the downtube like most modern steel bikepackers. I've installed rivnuts, in old steel racing frames back in my bike shop days, but had always done it with a rivnut gun. Saw a trick on YouTube for a home made version, so I lined up where I wanted the bottle cage and drilled out holes. Unfortunately the holes I drilled were a hair too large. Note to anyone reading this... drill smaller and carefully round file until you need to lightly press the rivnut into the frame. You actually need something for the knurled edges to just barely catch on. To solve, I ended up buying the next size up. They require a bigger bolt and will likely cause some issues installing most water bottle cages, but I'll cross that bridge after paint. For now, installed them with my home made tool.

View attachment 129532
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View attachment 129535

Based on advice from a few of you (thanks!) Ive settle on paint from Montana Cans. There is an art supply warehouse 15 mins away, so I'll head there this week and aim to paint next weekend. Since it's 95 degrees out, I spent some time mocking up my paint. I love how it came out, but it may be a bit too ambitious for my first paint job. Will likely require a fair amount of masking. Check it out below and let me know what you think.

View attachment 129547

Besides all the masking, my biggest concern is how gold will cover over other colors. Has anyone used Montana Gold - Metallic Gold Matt? My assumption is (after primer) I should paint the Cream, then Gold, then Maroon and finish with the black. Masking after each step. Do I need to wet sand where the new coat will stick onto the under coat? Should I only paint areas that the under coats will show or full coat? Should I be at all concerned with a Matt Gold covering the cream?

The lettering, stars, head badge and eagle will likely be decals applied and clear coated over. I also don't plan to use the actual Yuengling label. May try to come up with my own logo. Maybe even get a true head badge made.

You don't need to wet sand for top coats to adhere, but remember you are layering paint which is a 3-7 layer margin. I usually try to be in the 5-6 coat range including clear, so wet sanding can give you a smooth finish, of course, but allow for an additional coat or so as well.

Here's a step by step of what I would do. There is a way to tape off stripes earlier in the process, but you're just starting out and it's easy to get lost in order of operation, so here's A way (not THE way) to sequence it.

Btw, when doing the stripes, do a light spray of the color you just taped off before doing the second color (spray full stripe area white, tape over where you want to leave the actual white stripe, then spray once more with white before painting maroon or black). This will give you a crisp line when you pull the tape.

Make sure you use 2000 (or higher) grit sand paper when wet sanding the clear.

 

[kingfish254]

I like that color scheme.

 

[JRobert]

I like that color scheme.

Thanks man! I may simplify the design a bit and change the back end to black. Only maroon would be on the two bands. Trying to plan out the paint process and realizing my vision may be above my painting pay grade : )

Picking up the paint tomorrow!

 

[JRobert]

Paint secured. Went with Gold Chrome instead of basic metallic. Now I just need the weather to cooperate.

 

[JRobert]

Finally shot primer and it came out pretty rough. Not sure if I had a bad nozzle, or if it’s weather related, but i got a lot of paint splatter and the paint covered kind of spotty. Guess I’ll let it dry overnight and try wet sanding in the morning. In no rush and would rather the paint come out half way descent.

 

[sandman]

I just use a purple scotch pad to knock primer down ?

 

[JRobert]

I just use a purple scotch pad to knock primer down ?

Cool. That sounds easier than we sanding.

 

[OddJob]

I like the 'mummified' repair stand!
PaiNt oN~!

 

[JRobert]

I went to check on my primer job and starting to worry that the paint I used was any good. Even after 24hrs of drying, it felt like it wasnt 100% dry. Maybe its the heat and humidity?? I gave it the purple scotch brite and smoothed out all the high spots and noticed some of the primer coming off in spots. Not because I sanded too hard, but because it didnt seem to be sticking to the bare metal. Note that I cleaned the frame before painting with denatured alcohol. The primer I bought was from an art supply store that carried Montana paint. They didnt have Montana primer and I assumed it would be fine. Ugh.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Etching primer is the way to go