Revenant

[kingfish254]

Great little slice of heaven you have there.

 

[us56456712]

It’s 75F this morning, the family is stopping by, picnic time. Butcher made brats, no preservatives. Fried hot chicken is next. This will keep the temptation to work on the frame at bay. It needs to dry more and I don’t want to wait. So messing with cooking helps.

My chicken frying outfit with the Dutch Oven to keep it warm. This will keep frame sanding temptation away.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Those brats look delicious!
Quick question, what color red are you using? Asking for a future build of mine…

 

[us56456712]

Those brats look delicious!
Quick question, what color red are you using? Asking for a future build of mine…

I’m trying to imitate the old crimson made from ground up insects, which faded badly. I want to dirty up my final paint with graphite or Dry Slide lubricating spray. I used 2K black base, then Rustolium satin colonial red, then satin Rustolium papirika. I’ll wet sand this and put on a top coat of satin Colonial Red. Then the dirty treatment. Paprika is quite orange but all these colors change depending on what is under them. Here is what I’m trying to imitate. Right now in the photo I posted it’s the colonial red under paprika. The skim coates to fill rust divots were Rustolium gloss black with gloss colonial red over that. Both the black and red skim coats were sanded independently to help smooth the pits. There still will be slight pitting but it should look just old, not rusted. I had the black and red for skim coats already so I used what was on hand.

Rustolium colonial red is real close to the 38 - 41 Schwinn New World. I repainted this Schwinn in gloss colonial red but did’t put on pin stripes. I’m hoping an under coat of paprika will change it a little.

 

[OddJob]

I like your mixology; both on the grill / dutch oven and the paint for Revenant. Cross-over skills.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

I’m trying to imitate the old crimson made from ground up insects, which faded badly. I want to dirty up my final paint with graphite or Dry Slide lubricating spray. I used 2K black base, then Rustolium satin colonial red, then satin Rustolium papirika. I’ll wet sand this and put on a top coat of satin Colonial Red. Then the dirty treatment. Paprika is quite orange but all these colors change depending on what is under them. Here is what I’m trying to imitate. Right now in the photo I posted it’s the colonial red under paprika. The skim coates to fill rust divots were Rustolium gloss black with gloss colonial red over that. Both the black and red skim coats were sanded independently to help smooth the pits. There still will be slight pitting but it should look just old, not rusted. I had the black and red for skim coats already so I used what was on hand.View attachment 200740View attachment 200741
Rustolium colonial red is real close to the 38 - 41 Schwinn New World. I repainted this Schwinn in gloss colonial red but did’t put on pin stripes. I’m hoping an under coat of paprika will change it a little.View attachment 200752

Thanks for the info on color and technique. I too am planning on using the Colonial red in both satin and gloss, just need to come up with my ‘dirtying’ technique

 

[us56456712]

Thanks for the info on color and technique. I too am planning on using the Colonial red in both satin and gloss, just need to come up with my ‘dirtying’ technique

Look on the net for people who build models. They can make faux oil stains like real on tanks and airplanes. I haven’t looked it up but my son just told me about it. It sounds just like or similar to my plan. It’s something that goes on real wet and dries.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Will do! Thanks for the tip!

 

[us56456712]

Will do! Thanks for the tip!

I just look it up. It’s all tedious painting. I just remembered I have black stove polish, which contains carbon black and graphite. It really stains and won’t wipe off so care will be required. I’m thinking of spraying the frame with Dry Slide and then carefully applying stove polish to areas where grease would stain, like around the head tube cups, bb, forks and around the head badge. Here is my trial on an old red frame. I put it on thick and let it dry and it wouldn’t wipe off, thus the care in applying.

 

[us56456712]

I just look it up. It’s all tedious painting. I just remembered I have black stove polish, which contains carbon black and graphite. It really stains and won’t wipe off so care will be required. I’m thinking of spraying the frame with Dry Slide and then carefully applying stove polish to areas where grease would stain, like around the head tube cups, bb, forks and around the head badge. Here is my trial on an old red frame. I put it on thick and let it dry and it wouldn’t wipe off, thus the care in applying.View attachment 200951View attachment 200952View attachment 200953

Soap and water takes off the stove polish so it will need some kind of top coat to be permanent. It came easily off my hands with soap and water. Perhaps a Matt clear?

 

[us56456712]

Done is better than perfect. It’s 90F out but will be cool with rain tomorrow. It’s been calm since Thursday so today I fine wet sanded and put on the final paint. The frame must have been 120F, hot to touch so the paint didn’t flow. It dried the instant it hit the frame. So it’s a little pebbly. Good enough, perfect.

Sanding

Drying after wet sanding.

Done

 

[MattiThundrrr]

That's gotta be the most seenic paint drying station I've ever scene

 

[us56456712]

My pretty paint job has been dirtied up with Dry Slide and stove polish on the areas where grease and dirt naturally collect. It needs chips and scratches. I’ll have to be careless.

What do you think, did I come close to imitating the original faded crimson pigment they had in the 1890s?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Very nice job. As always, I am enjoying your process.

 

[us56456712]

I’m working on the bottom bracket. I’ve put in the grease fittings and made a new set of leather seals for the bearings. The original are rotted but one has enough remaining for a pattern.

Pill bottles with the one good seal. I then used the bottles to ink a line on the leather.

 

[OddJob]

I'd say your paint work is spot on.

 

[Swampthing]

Yea.
The paint is really nice. Even zoomed in.
It just shows what can be done when care is taken with multiple steps and layers.
I always knew that was important with woodwork and transparent finishes, but obviously true with opaque finishes as well.

 

[SoulGarageOH]

Nice work on that paint... and the brats.

 

[us56456712]

This crank is hard to work on. There is no sweet spot it’s either a little too loose or a little too tight. I went with a little tight, I’ll let the new ball bearings bed in. You have to take the crank arm off to adjust the bottom bracket play, unless you have the special Monarch tools. I don’t, I had to grind down a needle nosed Vice Grip to even work on it with the crank arm missing. That’s probably why the bb was loosey goosey when I got it and why it has no sweet spot. Worn out everywhere. I had to cut up an old frame to make a press to put the dust caps back on.

 

[us56456712]

The fork was stuck when I got it. There is a missing spacer and lock ring, which I am making. It was just tight as there was no key ring to hold the adjustment. Modern ones won’t fit. They easily slide on the one inch fork tube but the threads stick way out because their rolled instead of cut. I’m filing spacers but it’s raining hard so I had to stop. The head badge is coming of, it needs to fit better.