Rustoleum Prime & paint

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Hi - does anyone have any opinion on the metallic Rustoleum prime & paint all in one can? Thinking about painting my 67 Typhoon gold. It's a jumbo 24" stingray wannabee. Doesn't have to be show quality. Thanks.
 
I have sworn off Rustoleum since my buildoff bike. The paint was of such poor quality that after trying to fix the problems caused by Rustoleum for three days, I finally sanded it all off and started again with Krylon. What a difference...first real noticeable difference was the atomization of the Krylon. It sprayed easily and gave me no problems. Since then I have used a couple other brands with good results. No other brand was as poor a quality as Rustoleum.
Rustoleum-never again!
 
i've used rustolium on hundreds if not thousands of things over the last(to many) years.
its allways layed down nice, cured nice, andwhat smooth and durable (w/ the propper prep of course).
but lately, maybe the last 7 or 8 months i've had no luck w/ it.
could i have gotten a bad batch? unlikely since they were bought at diderent times at different stores.
did the company change the fomula? i dunno i aint read the can in years :lol:

i used to love the stuff, but it's really been a waste of time all spring & summer long. :x
 
I thought it could be a bad batch too. So, I needed a couple more cans to try to fix the initial problems and got them at a different store in a different town. More problems....I used to use Rustoleum and trusted it. Maybe it is different somehow now ?
 
yea, Im done with it,too.I did a resto with ONLY rustoleum. Primer, 2 colors paint, then clear. The clear curdled the paint. They didnt help me, at all. Its Duplicolor for me, now. And generic clear enamel over it.
 
Re: Rustoleum Prime & paint

I used the hammered version on my build off bike and it was slow to dry and cure out.
 
I just completed my first project using all Rustoleum. Maybe some of it was my inexperience, but it didn't come out as well as I hoped. And if you sneeze around it, it will chip right off. I've read in here it's because of a new environmentally friendlier formula.
 
Thanks for the eye opener!! You all just saved me from wasting a bunch of time. I wonder if Duplicolor has a decent coppertone look alike?
 
I have noticed the same problems with rustoleum. Atomization? more like half dribbling out of the spray nozzle and all over my hand, while the other half hurls through the air onto my project in a non-uniform manner. That said, if you get enough on the project to sand it down to a smooth base it seems durable. Long cure time though. Duplicolor has tons of options in laquer and a pretty good match for coppertone, but you will need a tough clear to protect it. They use so much thinner that it weakens the final product even after cured. Their enamel options seem limited. If you use laquer don't use enamel clear over it. Another member told me to use urethane to clear laquer but I haven't tried it.
 
Oz, enamel over lacquer has been done since the 70's.Its good. Not as good as urethane, but way safer for you. Its the lacquer over enamel that ya CANT do. I used to sell all my car models on ebay, and ALL were either finger-nail polish painted(lacquer) or base coat/clear urethane. I got away from spraying urethanes inmy house, and am no longer in the automotive bizz, so I only spray what I can buy in a hardware store. That brings up an idea. Finger nail polish is lacquer. I used to paint models with an airbrush. I bottle did it. If ya find the right color, buy a dozen, and mix it and spray out of a detailing gun. Sometimes called a jamb gun, as that is what we painted door jambs with. Low pressure,low volume,low overspray. Clear anyway ya want. JMHO Al
 
I just rebiult my Murray comet and Huffy/flyer and painted with rusto and had good results. One thing i would
recommend is the Rusto automotive clearcoat lacquer. Three close coats of this and you be a shinin' pretty.
 
Ooops! the clear can says enamel, like the paint. Anyways, both Rusto paint/auto clear have done me justice. More coats
the better tho.
 

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