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Did you have any air in the tube? If not you can pull it out and put just a bit of air in the tube that should push the stem through. Can't imagine that rim was made to use an extension.
Just enough for shape. I let that little bit out because I had a heck of a time getting the tire on. It’s super tight on the rim. I tried to press the stem up by pressing through the tire. I even pulled the stem up with channel locks. It just won’t stay up.
 
Sometimes I just have to stop before I start throwing things. The front tire should be easy. But it was a bear to get on. Then when I did, I can’t get the stem to pop out far enough to get the pump on it. It’s a deep rim, so I figured I can find an extended stem tube… but I’ve looked. Nothing. So I’ve hit a wall I can’t see around. Time for a break.

View attachment 280976
Are the spokes loose? One looks like it's not seated.
 
Are the spokes loose? One looks like it's not seated.
The spokes are fine. Not sure what you’re seeing.

I haven't used these myself, but it looks like a viable solution.
Went to my LBS this morning and they had these. A little long, so I’m going to find a shorter one, but that’s going to have to be the solution.
IMG_1943.jpeg
 
Ok, lots to catch up on. It broke over 100 degrees today, so it’s time to take a break.

First, before the front wheel dilemma, I got the front fender back from stripping. Here’s where the holes were filled in.
IMG_1933.jpeg


It’s a cheap “low rider” fender, and low rider is even stamped into the metal. To make sure you knew it was from China, they stamped it crooked. So I traced lines to cut just at the lower rider stamp and where the bends for the mounting are.
IMG_1934.jpeg

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You can see how much I’m getting rid of.
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Then…
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A fair amount of shaping later…
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So it needed a cross brace to mount to. So I cut and shaped one to fit in.
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I like the fender to cradle into the brace. It’s stiffer that way, and looks better. So I traced out the cradle.
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Then…
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And…
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Next I’ll shape this stainless piece to fill in that void and we’ll weld it in.
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I got the rear fender back too. Drilled out the rivets that mounted this bracket to the fender so it could be stripped. Now I’m using fender bolts to install it.
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They are a bit long so I’ll have to do something about that later.
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I mounted it and put in the wheel…
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I left the tab too long. It’s mind boggling how fat this wheel is. So… I’m going to cut it off and set it back even further.
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I also have some more dimples to make and adjust. So much work to get this wheel set in!
 
The spokes are fine. Not sure what you’re seeing.
Just looks like that one isn't in the hole right.
But I don't build wheels, so could be wrong.
Screenshot_20241005_194440_Chrome.jpg
 
Just looks like that one isn't in the hole right.
But I don't build wheels, so could be wrong.
Good catch. I thought you meant at the rim. Anyway, you are right. These are 14 gauge spokes. I think the hub was bored for 12g. So there is a little room in the spoke hole. Not so much room that it would require a washer because the spoke head still has plenty to grab.
 
Pondo posted a stance pic. It’s premature, but his pics made me want to see this bike on its wheels since I haven’t ever seen a Barracuda with a drag fork before.

I learned that I need to shorten the kickstand by an inch.

IMG_1967.jpeg


@Pondo i built these forks off a Rail frame , but even with the modifications they came out pretty close to horizontal at the fork blades. Pure luck!
 
That's just killer! I love how all of your builds have some similar features but have a completely different personality of their own and are always awesome. Very cool!
 
I’m bouncing some ideas around on what to do here, but I want to see if I hear a better one.

The drum brake has to be secured to the fork so it doesn’t roll forward when engaged. I thought make I could tap a bolt hole, but mounting it through the spokes would be ridiculous. Some sort of chrome “strap” may be in order. But I also thought about cutting the end of this slotted arm, and welding on. A “fin” that the slot has to engage. But there isn’t room for error since the spokes are right there. What do you think?

IMG_1949.jpeg

IMG_1957.jpeg
 
Sometimes I just have to stop before I start throwing things. The front tire should be easy. But it was a bear to get on. Then when I did, I can’t get the stem to pop out far enough to get the pump on it. It’s a deep rim, so I figured I can find an extended stem tube… but I’ve looked. Nothing. So I’ve hit a wall I can’t see around. Time for a break.

View attachment 280976
I've had that happen a couple of times. I cut out the rim strip from the spot where the valve sits and tape up the ends to hold it in place, then pinch the sides of the tire right at the valve stem to get just enough height for the pump to hold on to and then air it up.
Cut at the red lines and tape the ends to cover the closest spoke ends to the valve hole, leaving a bare space for the seat of the valve stem.

IMG_1938.jpeg
 
I’m bouncing some ideas around on what to do here, but I want to see if I hear a better one.

The drum brake has to be secured to the fork so it doesn’t roll forward when engaged. I thought make I could tap a bolt hole, but mounting it through the spokes would be ridiculous. Some sort of chrome “strap” may be in order. But I also thought about cutting the end of this slotted arm, and welding on. A “fin” that the slot has to engage. But there isn’t room for error since the spokes are right there. What do you think?

View attachment 281091
View attachment 281092
Instead of doing any cutting or drilling, two tabs could be welded on to the fork. One on either side of the brake arm since it provides braking rolling forward or backward. The arm looks about the same width as the fork arm and the tabs could have a snug fit depending on where you put them on the fork. The wheel sits in the same spot with no adjustment so the brake arm is always at that same spot. You could shape the tabs so they fit flush with the curve of the brake arm.
IMG_1949.jpeg
 
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Still trying to get used to the size of these lights to see if I like them. They are bigger than I had envisioned, so the stick farther forward than I had envisioned. Maybe they are just too big for the proportion of the bike? Or maybe two is just one too many?

I tried them high and low. What do you think?

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When I was showing the owner the pictures I was showing you of the lights, asking his opinion, I didn’t realize the sissy bar was in the background. I was going to reveal that at the end as a surprise, but the cat is out of the bag.

Mark Stephens is a fabricator in the muscle bike community. I helped him in a small way with answers and suggestions on fabricating tall sissy bars, and he’s taken off with it. He makes some terrific creations and the orders have been flying in.

I had a special challenge for him. In ‘72, Ross kicked the top of their sissy bar back.
IMG_1975.jpeg


I wanted to recreate that to make this bar special for this Barracuda. We also decided to take a crack at suspension, which removes height adjustability, so we’ll see how that works. And lastly, I needed something super special. I sent Mark this picture from the Chainguard from my King Cuda.
IMG_8513.jpeg


And with all that, here’s what I got.

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I wanted to “jush it up” a little. So I found this orange gem.
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And added it.
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The work he did on that fish, etching in the shading, is just extraordinary. It exceeded my expectations!
 

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