Schwinn Springer....

shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
BOXKARS
Bike Wall
Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

julesjunk

Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
255
Reaction score
1
Location
Kansas City, MO.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Went to try to buy an old Honda motorcycle this morning, and ended up coming home with this. Just blind dumb luck. The bike was laying beside his garage. Good thing to, as the Honda was junk, and I drove 50 miles each way.

If anyone cares to tell me what exactly I have, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Regards,
Jules

VIN# B25175 (attempted to use bunchobikes, and I can't narrow it down far enough. Might pull the crank, though I'm surprised it's not a skip tooth.)

Looks like it might have the original tire on the back, labeled "Schwinn Typhoon Cord".

001-20.jpg


002-10.jpg


003-11.jpg


007-9.jpg


009-6.jpg
 
Looks like a real rat rod to me. :mrgreen:

That headbadge would date it to early 60s.

You've also got a Monark chainring on there.
 
Could be a wasp. I am not sure if it is a feb of 62. Could be. There doesn't seem to be enoguh numbers in the serial number for it to be a 60's bike. I could be wrong though. Matt
 
You would need 6 digits for a 62. Looking at the serial number list, it may have been built between Feb 12-19, 1952. I can't see your photo on my work computer, but the frames look much alike between the 50's and 60's. Is the number on the left rear dropout? The crank would be a definate though, and the bearings may need some grease anyway.

edit: Now that I can see it, it sure looks like a 52, but the cranks may not give you the year, unless they just changed the sprocket and used the schwinn cranks. Also, The bottom part of the springer, with the lock, is reversed, it should be rotated to the rear. That bike will look great when you're finished.
 
Wildcat said:
You would need 6 digits for a 62. Looking at the serial number list, it may have been built between Feb 12-19, 1952. I can't see your photo on my work computer, but the frames look much alike between the 50's and 60's. Is the number on the left rear dropout? The crank would be a definate though, and the bearings may need some grease anyway.

edit: Now that I can see it, it sure looks like a 52, but the cranks may not give you the year, unless they just changed the sprocket and used the schwinn cranks. Also, The bottom part of the springer, with the lock, is reversed, it should be rotated to the rear. That bike will look great when you're finished.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to doing something with it.
If you run through the serial # listings on Bunchobikes, it could also be 9/28-9/30 of 53 and 1/15 of 57. I'll pull the crank, and/or the handlebar stem and try to secure a date later today.

Thanks for the interest,
Jules
 
Pulled the crank today. It appears the existing one must be the one that came with the Monark Ring.
Attempted to pull handlebar stem. No luck there either. She's Stuck! Currently soaking it......
 
Acording to the Schwinn ser. # charts build date 9/28 to 9/30 of 1953. The headbadge is a "large" oval type of the deluxe variety (chrome over brass). These were generally reserved for deluxe models i.e. B-6, Phantom, etc.The locking springer forks have the steer tube mounted backwards. Pull the fork to see if there is a "tab" welded inside the head tube and also if the bottom cup is the type for a locking fork.New Departure Model-D hub is a 1/2" pitch, also a tell tale sign of a deluxe model,as lower ticket models of the same era still used 1" pitch set-ups.Stem apears to be of an earlier vintage.Messinger seat appears to be salvageable! :wink: Later & PEACE!!!!!
 
Slick Rick said:
Acording to the Schwinn ser. # charts build date 9/28 to 9/30 of 1953. The headbadge is a "large" oval type of the deluxe variety (chrome over brass). These were generally reserved for deluxe models i.e. B-6, Phantom, etc.The locking springer forks have the steer tube mounted backwards. Pull the fork to see if there is a "tab" welded inside the head tube and also if the bottom cup is the type for a locking fork.New Departure Model-D hub is a 1/2" pitch, also a tell tale sign of a deluxe model,as lower ticket models of the same era still used 1" pitch set-ups.Stem apears to be of an earlier vintage.Messinger seat appears to be salvageable! :wink: Later & PEACE!!!!!
Click to expand...

I appreciate the education. I'm somewhat of a newbie. Allow me to further take advantage of your knowledge. Or anyone else who should choose to chime in. Been trying to remove the handlebar stem and fork with no luck. Now I've beat a few rusty bikes apart, some of them being springer forked, but never have I taken apart a Schwinn springer with the locking fork. Am I missing something?
Thus far, I've successfully loosened (and tightened) the handlebar stem bolt. I've ran the bolt up a 1/4" and smacked with a deadblow hammer, successfully pushing the wedge down. I've attempted to pry the bars back and forth while keeping a piece of wood through the forks. I've had the bike sitting upside down for several hours, with the head stock filled with penetrating oil. I've suspended the bike by the handlebars, and beat on a blunt chisel on the top of the upper springer bracket......so far, nothing. She's a little rusty, but I've had far better success on far more rusty bikes. Am I overlooking something? Is there something to the locking fork I need to know? Or is it possibly due to the lockout currently being installed backwards??

Any and all help greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Jules
 
If the whole headset assembly spins free, I doubt it has anything to do with the steer tube being mounted backwards.Is the stem aluminum?If so elecrolysis could be the culprate, electrolysis is a galvanic action (fusing) that takes place between unlike metals.If it does'nt break free soon, you might want to try some heat and a soft faced deadblow hammer to free it up.I have heard Coca-Cola being used as a penetrant has yielded good results in this application as well. Also, you may want to put the fork legs in a large vise and CAREFULLY turn the stem using a cheater bar i.e. piece of pipe, longer pry bar, for leverage.If this is what you do, be sure to protect the fork leks with a rag or some such measure.Schwinn locking springer forks are hard to come by and fetch a premium! :wink: Later & PEACE!!!!! :mrgreen:
 
I just went back and looked at your pics again, your stem does'nt appear to be an aluminum one.I also noticed the headset, also a deluxe offering! Pretty sure you have a deluxe balloon frame there.Good base for a Phantom or B-6 build. :shock:
 
Seems to be a lot of this going around. I guess people are pulling out bikes that have been in the basement for the last 30 yrs, trying to raise a buck. Anyway, what you're doing is about all there is to do, you appear to have a cast steel stem inserted all the way in, giving the rust a large area over which to bond. PB Blaster is my current favorite solvent, it could take a few days of repeated attempts to get it. In years past, when it took longer for people to throw out old bikes, I ran into quite a few that were so bad I just gave up and cut them off, or just tossed the whole thing back to the curb, but none of them had springers, much less valuable collector pieces. Good luck, don't let it get to you.
 
Once again, I appreciate the input. I've "lubed" it 4 or 5 times since my last post, hanging it at various positions. Still no luck. Will give it another try tomorrow afternoon.
Determined to break her free without heat, as I like it's current patina........
 
If possible, loosen the head nut and see if you can get some penetrating oil or pb blaster right where the threads start. Then the really tough part, wait 3 days!

The fork tube is round, so it being backwards won't make a difference in the stem.

The seat stem in my 53 Meteor will not budge, but it's at a height I can ride. Over the years, we've tried everything except heat.
 
Wildcat said:
If possible, loosen the head nut and see if you can get some penetrating oil or pb blaster right where the threads start. Then the really tough part, wait 3 days!

The fork tube is round, so it being backwards won't make a difference in the stem.

The seat stem in my 53 Meteor will not budge, but it's at a height I can ride. Over the years, we've tried everything except heat.
Click to expand...

If she don't come loose today, that's just what I'm going to do. The head nut will move, but only a couple threads before it runs into the stem. Should be enough to get something thicker than wd-40 in there......

3 days.... ugh. :? :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top