Shipping a frame

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Messages
11,394
Reaction score
18,424
Location
Zambales, Philippines
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
This is how I ship a frame and parts, everything except the wheels. The box won't be big enough to include wheels, but stays just under the size for postage concerns. Above 24" X 44" x 8", the postage takes a huge jump. This is 23" x 43" x 8", and will keep your postage cost below 20 bucks, in the states.

Get a standard bike box from your lbs. I measure the size, taking in consideration the flaps adding 6 inches. First cut one end of the box off, about 3 inches. Then cut off the top flaps where they bend. Cut down the top corners 6 inches so you'll have new flaps along the top, after the new side is taped together. You can score along the box to help fold the new flaps. That will make the height 23".

33e6737.jpg


The cut end of the box is done the same way, cut 6" to make flaps and tape them up.
sn2m9l.jpg


The frame will just barely fit in there. The dropouts are really vulnerable, use something between them to keep them from getting bent, like a piece of 2 x 4, or an old hub bolted in would be good. A can of soup will work, as long as it keeps them braced.
2luw21s.jpg


I like to lay everything out, wrap the parts, and then pack everything in there so there's no movement. I save all the cardboard that was cut off the box to help pack it. Also any cardboard already in the box from the original shipping can be used. When it's sealed up, everything should be snug. The box keeps the original bottom seam and one side seam, so it should hold up well, and be used again.
2mp0e1v.jpg
 
Thats really nice work.

I recently bought a wheel with drumbrake that was packed only in a garbagebag, with only an adres label stuck to it. :shock: :shock:
thankfully it was not damaged or so by the shipping.

You really do a nice yob.
 
Another tip........Always, always...Put the address of the recipient somewhere else on the inside, or attached to the frame. As a former PO employee I've seen a lot of packages damaged. This way if the contents ever get separated from the box they'll know where to send it.
 
Another tip: Put a block of wood between the dropouts and secure it so the rear end doesn't get squished. Even better, use a piece of all-thread and bolt in a fake axle. Gary
 
"The dropouts are really vulnerable, use something between them to keep them from getting bent, like a piece of 2 x 4, or an old hub bolted in would be good. A can of soup will work, as long as it keeps them braced."

Thanks guys, I just picked up a couple more boxes, so i can make them up and have them on hand. A couple inches larger than this size and they jump in price to $65. They have to be under 45x25, and I always make them an inch or so less in case they bulge a little.
 
+1 on the bracing the drop outs. I also take some cardboard strip the width of the box and fold/tape into a triangle. I make several of these and tape to the frame. This helps for when UPS lays it flat(cause they didn't see your up arrows) and put a pile of other packages on top of it.
 
I checked the price of shipping this Parcel Post again to see if the price went up. Nope, just about the same price as long as you keep the box under the size limit. 44 x 24 x 8. Still below 20 bucks.
 
Well, I just shipped another frame with parts. Same size box. This was heavier, 28lbs, and I added insurance ($100 worth) for an extra $2.30. Also delivery confirmation just under a dollar. It came to $32.

iw8b38.jpg
 
Some good tips here.
 
I just finished building a box. And this IS very good info. Under 109" around the big side is Your limit before the ballooning in price, According to usps. Who do You ship with for 20 bux and do You ever send priority mail?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top