Show us them cars!
- Thread starter Clothespin n
- Start date
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just dump that fat chick they look good so low you cant get your finers under the front and air ride is for the uncomitted 8)
2 litre 914 wheels 8)
the quickest thing I could come up with off the top of my head is bug selecta
that's just a quick one I made.
http://shop.volkswarenhaus.de/media/con ... electa.htm
that's just a quick one I made.
http://shop.volkswarenhaus.de/media/con ... electa.htm
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
So much VW love, I love my Audi, but it's gotta go...
Selling my beloved Audi wagon for down payment money on a house. Bad economy brought about a move and we are lucky to be selling our house, but not making a dime off of it. Enough of that.
Great car, very fast, modifications were done by previous owner:
Metallic pearl charcoal black exterior, grey interior
Heated Seats
Mika tuned GT 25 software
RS2 - green top injectors
K24 sport turbo
Race Products intercooler ( side mount )
ECS race N75 valve
new spark plugs
VR6 Mass Airflow housing with open air element
MTM cast exhaust manifold (costs $2000+)
URS4 external wastegate
Audi TT 225 hp by-pass valve
Custom fabricated 3" exhaust ( cat delete ) - ( NO Check Engine light )
APR Snub mount
Eibach sport lower springs
S4 wheels w/ Continental tires
Timing belt, water pump, seals, thermostat just done along with MAF/throttle body cleaning, new plugs.
When I purchased the car there was a huge boost leak, a busted silicon elbow between the turbo and intercooler, once I replaced that the car came alive. I replaced the thermostat to get the car running up to correct temperature (was running cold), then I had the turbo rebuilt. The car is a little tempermental when cold, but once warmed up it drives great. Everything on the car works great. It is showing a check engine light right now, but I don't have a VAG-COM to check/reset the code, I believe the intake needs cleaning again from when it was running cold and not burning off the carbon. The check engine light is not due to the catalytic converter, it never threw a code for that. The car just passed inspection 9/12/10 so is good for a year.
The clutch on the car is fine and will last for a long time, but if you constantly get on the throttle hard into boost it will slip in 2nd gear. I purchased a Stage 2 Clutch, pressure plate, and cromoly flywheel. This is not installed but will come with the car, I spent around $500 on these parts.
Overall good condition. Synthetic oil changes (Castrol and Motul)
Body has just the usual small flaws, dings. Nothing major. Driver's seat has a crack in bottom left bolster (they all do that).
156k miles
$5500 (would take $4000 cash and a dependable daily driver)
Located in Roanoke Rapids, NC
Selling my beloved Audi wagon for down payment money on a house. Bad economy brought about a move and we are lucky to be selling our house, but not making a dime off of it. Enough of that.
Great car, very fast, modifications were done by previous owner:
Metallic pearl charcoal black exterior, grey interior
Heated Seats
Mika tuned GT 25 software
RS2 - green top injectors
K24 sport turbo
Race Products intercooler ( side mount )
ECS race N75 valve
new spark plugs
VR6 Mass Airflow housing with open air element
MTM cast exhaust manifold (costs $2000+)
URS4 external wastegate
Audi TT 225 hp by-pass valve
Custom fabricated 3" exhaust ( cat delete ) - ( NO Check Engine light )
APR Snub mount
Eibach sport lower springs
S4 wheels w/ Continental tires
Timing belt, water pump, seals, thermostat just done along with MAF/throttle body cleaning, new plugs.
When I purchased the car there was a huge boost leak, a busted silicon elbow between the turbo and intercooler, once I replaced that the car came alive. I replaced the thermostat to get the car running up to correct temperature (was running cold), then I had the turbo rebuilt. The car is a little tempermental when cold, but once warmed up it drives great. Everything on the car works great. It is showing a check engine light right now, but I don't have a VAG-COM to check/reset the code, I believe the intake needs cleaning again from when it was running cold and not burning off the carbon. The check engine light is not due to the catalytic converter, it never threw a code for that. The car just passed inspection 9/12/10 so is good for a year.
The clutch on the car is fine and will last for a long time, but if you constantly get on the throttle hard into boost it will slip in 2nd gear. I purchased a Stage 2 Clutch, pressure plate, and cromoly flywheel. This is not installed but will come with the car, I spent around $500 on these parts.
Overall good condition. Synthetic oil changes (Castrol and Motul)
Body has just the usual small flaws, dings. Nothing major. Driver's seat has a crack in bottom left bolster (they all do that).
156k miles
$5500 (would take $4000 cash and a dependable daily driver)
Located in Roanoke Rapids, NC
My latest toy. 97 Ranger. Good on gas and I can load my bikes in the back pretty well.
Its automatic.
Well, I got a real good deal on it, or else it would be a stick. 80,000 miles for $2,000 Belonged to an older fella that only used it to haul his golf clubs around and make an occasional trip to Menards/Lowes. My wife refuses to drive a manual, I have a 16 year old son that I would rather not strip the gears as well! lol. I plan on driving this for 2 years then the next ride will be a Ford Super duty. (I'll be done with going back to college by then) 
Then this one will be slammed and bagged.
Then this one will be slammed and bagged.
