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yewhi said:

REALLY like this one! 8)
I finally got to watch "Klunkerz" the other day. I'm not a mountain biker(or road biker, for that matter), but this is a GREAT movie for anyone into bikes. Very informative and very entertaining. Now I want to build a "real" klunker and was even looking at mountain bikes. :shock:

I was building this bike for "The ANYTHING GOES Build off" awhile back, but never got it together in time! It is my "RETRO HYBRID KLUNKER'! I need to change the grips and tires if I wanna go bomb some hills, but for now it is my daily rider/bar bike! I have disc brakes and a SUN "double wide" rear wheel, Campi "Benotto" cranks, triple tree forks, mongoose stem and a set of cut down bmx bars( cut the bottom off and used the crossbar)! This bike is real fun and it gets a lot of looks! GERRY D. FLAT BLACK KUSTOMS.


Okay, I have a stupid question. How do you guys with the multispeed cassette/deraileur style rear hubs get them to fit in the frames?
Some internal gear dropouts are wider, and some 5-6 spd multi's are narrower. As for the other stuff, I've seen all-thread placed in the dropouts w/nuts and washers, and just keep screwing it apart 'til you get them out there. I've seen the same done w/floor jacks. I've also seen people stand on one dropout :? , and he-man the other :shock: . Personally, I prefer clamping the frame to a sturdy bench, attached to the floor or wall if possible, and bend each side individually, like with a digging bar, so that you can measure the amount each side is moved. That way you can be sure both sides bend equally. I'm sure some other ideas will come up, maybe better methods, this subject has certainly come up before.
41DX said:
My 120 fit fine in the 118 spread.

PM Jeff. He is very helpful and has done it before. Think big 2x4 and some leverage...

Good thread... ... 7&start=45

Here's the reference from "Repack Rider" a.k.a. Charlie Kelly where he writes about using string to keep things aligned right and left:

In the link that Tim points you to above, I have a pic where I show using a 2x4 for leverage.

As others have written, it's one of many methods.

Good luck! :wink:

edit: P.S. If you've never browsed Charlie's website, it's awesome:
BMX cruiser bars- Koz, Cook Bros. etc.....(you will need to open a second mortgage)

Retro Cruiser Bars- Skull Skate ... (simply the coolest. not quite vintage though)

Vintage cheapies, some still made- Wald..... (cool styles, just be aware of the strenght limitations as you try to beat GF's best time on the repack. Dentist bills are expensive)

Old motorcycle bars- Magura, Hodaka.....(heavy but strong, can be found for a reasonable price on the bay).


Ashtabula- industry (Klunker) standard

Vintage BMX- Tuf Neck, Pro Neck (and you though the Ashtabulas were expensive)

There are several other vintage bmx stems (tuf/pro style) available on the bay that sell for way less.

Use the one that came original on your klunker frame... (strength issues).

Find a wald knockoff.... (strength issues)

Visualize yourself back in 1979 putting together a bike to ride off roadand determine what the best handlebars and stem should be considering strength weight and price. Find those.
Rat Rod said:
It's too bad someone can't start producing a replica of the Tuff/Pro Neck stems.

I may be naive about this, but from a machining and production standpoint it seems like it would be a fairly easy part to produce.

Ask and you shall recieve...

Helix BMX in Red, blue, black, gold and silver...

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