That wheel was the closet thing handy and WILL NOT BE ON THE FINAL BUILD. Repeat after me: "Fat street tires under deep Monark fenders."
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- Thread starter GuitarlCarl
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I have the correct length ordered... But I'll post a pic of this lace before I dismantle it. It's not terrible but just not right.
Easy peasey grind down the tips of the spokes...
Not this time. I'm actually waiting on new spokes and rethinking the color scheme...
Not this time. I'm actually waiting on new spokes and rethinking the color scheme...
Did some rearranging in my garage for some floor space. Bike still ended up on my bench. Cut out the brake bridge left over from the MTB that donated it's rear frame for Rockin' Rollfast. Now the Monark fender goes high enough to be centered on the wheel. The front fender fits perfect on the Monark style springer and while the back fender needs some dent and bent work it'll be all right soon enough.
Not a great shot of the bridge, I took it with the bike hanging from the ceiling on a hook, right before I cut it out. But you get the idea.
Not a great shot of the bridge, I took it with the bike hanging from the ceiling on a hook, right before I cut it out. But you get the idea.
Man, that bike is stretched out. Looking good!
I've got an idea for a new bridge/fender support using a bit of rod heated up and hammered out blacksmith style. Should be fun and functional too.
I'm just not sure about my color scheme... I really would love to do some "speedboat glitter" but I've also got a love hate relationship going on with the funky chartreuse fenders. They have decent stripes in black and gold, they're just weird enough you never see this color and I can pick up the gold and black with my rims. Maybe goodbye electric blue and hello root beer with smaller glitter flakes?
I'm just not sure about my color scheme... I really would love to do some "speedboat glitter" but I've also got a love hate relationship going on with the funky chartreuse fenders. They have decent stripes in black and gold, they're just weird enough you never see this color and I can pick up the gold and black with my rims. Maybe goodbye electric blue and hello root beer with smaller glitter flakes?
It does seem like the electric blue wouldn't really go with the fenders. Maybe a dark red metallic or maroon?
Nice work. Those fenders are looking sweet on there!
I've seen a nice burnt orange/brown called root beer that should look good.
Clean the fenders and spray them clear will help, gold rims, black spokes.
Plus with some of the left over I'm planning to paint a guitar body.
Root beer will look great on a Telecaster...
The first drive was cooking by the time I had the fifth one wired in. The signal had been looped to regenerate a wave that I thought would hold the grid steady when I dumped the clutch, so to speak, and let it all go down the tubes. A single note had started the feedback and the harmonics were there in the second and the fifth orders. There was an excess of energy, a benefit of the echoes produced by the curvature of the walls in the old building, The grid might have been a fragile thing, but the old walls of the gravity shed had weathered the sonic assault of a thousand cycles churning, each in their own array of dimensions. So literally bouncing the tonal wave off the grid into the walls poised no threat to the physical plane of the shed itself. Yet I saw the color shift when I opened the loop and let the overdrives cascade into the void between the sonic and the visual planes. Indigo. Blue. The metallic sheen of the grid started phasing indigo, then a lighter blue, then back to indigo. I could hear the keening sizzle of the old tubes overlaid with a sort of barking low down in the sub-sonic range. I think that it was coming from the lining of the 6 meter thick walls of the shed itself. Or the grid was off balance... A dozen test runs and that low rumbling stab wasn't there, why now? I was about to slam a power chord that hadn't been heard in a decade or two on the converted Strat.
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Digging the creative writing process along with the building process, sort of "Zen and the art of RatRodBike Building". 
Your rootbeer glisten paint job has me
and the fat street tires grabbed me like 
. Your green paint on that MBBO build that garnered you an MBBO OJ Award is still one of my all-time favorites. Course, the furry seat cover didn't hurt it. 
Your rootbeer glisten paint job has me
and the fat street tires grabbed me like . Your green paint on that MBBO build that garnered you an MBBO OJ Award is still one of my all-time favorites. Course, the furry seat cover didn't hurt it.
Thank @OddJob I was just perusing the saddles etc. on eBay. Might toss a funky San Marco at it or a cheap knock off big rivet style, not sure yet. I'm also second guessing myself on paint, the fenders are rougher than the pictures show, so might as well paint them to match... I've also got to fanagle some kind of fastener to hook the front fender to the landing gear fork. Yeah geta good look this ain't all faux Monark...
There's a wide open hole on the bottom of the fork crown and a set of holes front to back for like a caliper brake... Also that is the tire and rim, so far, lol. I've found nothing else to match the big ol' Hank out back.
There's a wide open hole on the bottom of the fork crown and a set of holes front to back for like a caliper brake... Also that is the tire and rim, so far, lol. I've found nothing else to match the big ol' Hank out back.
Also need to go digging around in the gravity shed for a replacement tank.
This sonic tale is a lot deeper than the Gerty and Tom Terrific story a few years back.
The mixed FoNark fork is looking great.
Be careful out in that gravity shed. I've heard things happen out there. 
Speaking of the FoNark, anyone using one of the repop Monark style forks with a motored bike should beware. Look at the last photo, the spring towers have some pretty bad welding and before they painted them they filled them with bondo instead of another pass with the stick or wire or whatever they used. The joints were actually weak, you could bend them with your fingers. After wire wheeling out the bondo, I filled them in with weld and then a bit of JB Weld cuz I had none of my own bondo. They're better now. But if you have a set of repops it wouldn't hurt to see if you can cut the weld joint with a boxcutter, that'd be an easy way to tell.
Nice!
I have a good service manual for that hub if you'd like.
Here's to hooping I never need one. I'll tear into an old 3 speed if need be, but I've never opened any of the newer Nexus hubs. But it might be nice to have. Shoot me a PM.
Having experience with this hub on a couple of builds, remember that it is a 'progressive' gearing; meaning that 1st gear is the one-to-one ratio and then they get progressively harder as you shift up. As opposed to the 2nd gear being the one-to-one in a 3 speed, and 1 being easier and 3 being harder.
What that equated to for me was to use a smaller chainring than typical in the front to achieve a lower gear for climbing.
What that equated to for me was to use a smaller chainring than typical in the front to achieve a lower gear for climbing.
