Steel Wool Job "Zig Zag"

[PublicNuisance]

I have a serious question to present concerning clear coat. My intent for this bike is to get that look the way I want it to be and clear coat it to seal it in.

I'm a fan of the work Steve Darnell and Welder Up in Vegas does on the TV program Vegas Rat Rods. With that as inspiration. My intent is to have it clear coated shiny.

However, my only dilemma up to this point was shiny or matte on the clear coat. After reading a thread on the Cabe. I am guestioning whether to clear coat at all? Heavy paste wax?

RRB please share your thoughts on the protective coating for this build?




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Boiled linseed oil FTW! It's on my 36 and I love it. Let it sit for 15min then wipe it off. [emoji1360]


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[PublicNuisance]

I LOVE the Indianapolis connection on this one!!


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[Scribble]

I just bought some Quick Bricks for my 41 Colson because of how good they look on your bike, also +1 to boiled linseed oil just put on a really thin coat to thick and it becomes gummy.

 

[PublicNuisance]

I just bought some Quick Bricks for my 41 Colson because of how good they look on your bike, also +1 to boiled linseed oil just put on a really thin coat to thick and it becomes gummy.

I'm liking the Nirve BadAss tires on my Hoffman Arrow also!

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[Kruez]

Whoa, good eye, scrolled back up and seen it right away. Maybe the previous owner was a stoner.

Like the stoner ghost of the previous owner that has stuck with the bike. That explains how my tools get moved around and lost in my shop.

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[Kruez]

I just bought some Quick Bricks for my 41 Colson because of how good they look on your bike, also +1 to boiled linseed oil just put on a really thin coat to thick and it becomes gummy.

The quick bricks roll realy smooth and handle nice. They look like a classic balloon tire should.

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[Kruez]

I LOVE the Indianapolis connection on this one!!


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I know right! I love that about your bike as well. There is a historical list of indianapolis based manufacturers and brands I had run accross. I will find it.

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[Indyjps]

I've never used linseed oil, so no comment.

I use johnsons paste wax on old patina surfaces, lasts a long time.

Just another option.

 

[pholTmonx]

We use Johnson's on all bronze patina work that is not clear coated....
Any traditional fine patina is waxed...

 

[Kruez]

I've never used linseed oil, so no comment.

I use johnsons paste wax on old patina surfaces, lasts a long time.

Just another option.

Boiled Linseed oil scares me a lil bit. I've used it on patio furniture once and it turned black over time. One of the bikes I found locally had a dark film that was difficult to wash away. Like dried used motor oil. I assume that started out as linseed oil. Can't be certain.

Johnson paste wax I have considered. I assume several coats?

The image in my brain is a top notch shiny clear coat to seal in the look of the steel wool job and bring out and highlight the colors. I intended to take it to a pro painter and have the clear coat sprayed on in several coats. Then a new black seat handle bars and grips to go along with the new rims and tires. The paint would pop. A resto mod so to speak.

Part of the preservation of Patina is the original dents and holes in the fenders and frame as they tell their own story. Some of the "crust" may not coat well.

Thank you to everyone that has provided input to this thread and all of RRB.


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[pholTmonx]

Boiled Linseed oil scares me a lil bit. I've used it on patio furniture once and it turned black over time. One of the bikes I found locally had a dark film that was difficult to wash away. Like dried used motor oil. I assume that started out as linseed oil. Can't be certain.

Johnson paste wax I have considered. I assume several coats?

The image in my brain is a top notch shiny clear coat to seal in the look of the steel wool job and bring out and highlight the colors. I intended to take it to a pro painter and have the clear coat sprayed on in several coats. Then a new black seat handle bars and grips to go along with the new rims and tires. The paint would pop. A resto mod so to speak.

Part of the preservation of Patina is the original dents and holes in the fenders and frame as they tell their own story. Some of the "crust" may not coat well.

Thank you to everyone that has provided input to this thread and all of RRB.


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Johnson's is crazy soft... We apply it to hot surfaces it get in a the porosity of the castings... Try it on something else rusty, the only issue would be where hard remove excess in he crusty bits...
But honestly is so soft a hair dryer will help u work it in and out...
I think it's reasonable answer, linseed should still be achievable later if chosen but clear may not enjoy the crevices

 

[pholTmonx]

If prepping for paint, know that it dose not need to be or should be he gloss u hope ACHIVE after the cheat. I'd use paintshop safe compounds to get the look you want if plan on painting it....
Don't wax it...
If it's contaminated u'll for sure get fisheyes and heavy peel... That takes more sanding to repair and try chase out the issue putting your patina at risk.

*As for the crust parts and clear. Can go for it and see how it hold and always repair it later... Or take a look for cold Patinas for steel. You can knock it lose or even "clean it up" then faux back some color to match...

Great project watching..

 

[Kruez]

BEN HUR

Update:

I happened upon a very cool similar original paint BEN HUR on an auction site. BEN HUR badged, skipped tooth Rollfast. Its long been sold, however, I collected the photos for my research and created a blog post of all the photos. An Original paint BEN HUR Bicycle. Posted here in case someone finds another.

~Kruez