Sting Ray lovers finds

[Sting Ray Lover]

With most people having internet access now the days of hearing about the "low miles 1960 Chevy for $500" that turns out to be a Corvette are getting harder to find. Getting a complete bike with most of the original parts that just needs to be cleaned, serviced and adjusted seems like a win win. I'm restoring a Stingray Fastback right now and the cost of shipping the replacement parts is almost as much as the parts themselves.

 

[outskirtscustoms]

With most people having internet access now the days of hearing about the "low miles 1960 Chevy for $500" that turns out to be a Corvette are getting harder to find. Getting a complete bike with most of the original parts that just needs to be cleaned, serviced and adjusted seems like a win win. I'm restoring a Stingray Fastback right now and the cost of shipping the replacement parts is almost as much as the parts themselves.

Absolutely true and much easier in the long run I just love the thrill of the hunt. As a matter of fact I'm working on both a 68 Stingray and a 70 Fastback right now.

I try to shop local marketplace and get to know my local bike builders and I try out new restaurants when I'm out of town. In my area there's always something that is a good deal. Some are home runs but few and far between. Most are a simple clean it up and double your money. I also play a strategy that seems to work well for me... I buy bikes like mad September through about March when the weather is horrible and nobody is thinking about bikes then spruce them up and I post for sale ads right around tax time when everyone has disposable cash and looking for summer toys. Some like my stingray and Fastback however go into my private collection and I just let people drool over when they come to buy other bikes.

 

[horsefarmer]

Man, that green is funky.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

It's a 1974 Schwinn Lime Green original paint color with black decals and stripes on the fenders. Should clean up nicely.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

Happy Saturday Fellow Ratter's! My brother found this Louisville Cycle Company American Flyer for me at a flea market in Manchester, KY. Has a New Departure front hub and a rear hub that has Eclipse Machine Division Made In Elmira NY USA P3 36 13. Morrow on the coaster brake arm. Any ideas as to the year this was produced?
I'm open to suggestions how to proceed.
1. Leave it as is?
2. Semi restore?
3. Modify?
4. Total restore?
I'm thinking "Modify" but I'm interested in hearing what y'all think. This is officially the oldest bike I have and one of the coolest!

Check out the upholstery job on this saddle. "Real Leather". Soooo RATTY!

 

[twojs.bike]

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

COOL! So early 52 or early 57. Thanks twojs.bike!

 

[twojs.bike]

Cool Bike. I would do the bare minimum to make it mechanically sound. How are the wheels? The rear rim looks much cleaner than the rest of the bike.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

Both have been resprayed white along with the nipples and about 1" of the spokes. "Cheng Shin" tires, Union made Schwinn Approved headlight, taillight and dynamo and newer Schwinn Hand grips. My brother said he rode it and it was "very smooth".

 

[RustyGold]

COOL! So early 52 or early 57. Thanks twojs.bike!

It's not a '52 or '57. That serial lookup tool is fine when used within the parameters it's made for...'52 and up Chicago Schwinns.

Yours, having serial under the BB is pre-'52 (when they were moved to year dropout) and post-war, due to the forward facing rear dropouts. '48s start in the D range, pre '48 records don't exist. B is generally considered '46 but serials were a bit haphazard early postwar... another indication of '46 are tapered kickstand leg.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

The kickstand looks newer with no rust. The chainring has extra holes, not like newer ones.

 

[RustyGold]

There's often a year cast on the crank spindle if you have it apart...and it's original.

Early post war also have skinny dropouts, but I've never seen what they look like, so couldn't tell you for sure what they look like.

It's '46-'48 for sure, though.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

There's often a year cast on the crank spindle if you have it apart...and it's original.

Early post war also have skinny dropouts, but I've never seen what they look like, so couldn't tell you for sure what they look like.

It's '46-'48 for sure, though.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Wildcat]

From the 46 Schwinn catalog:

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

From the 46 Schwinn catalog:

Exactly the same color as the one I have!

 

[Oak Tree]

I’m pretty sure schwinns did not come with Morrows originally but you can easily date the Morrow hub. Google the date codes and it will give you an idea on the hub.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

I’m pretty sure schwinns did not come with Morrows originally but you can easily date the Morrow hub. Google the date codes and it will give you an idea on the hub.

Google says Morrow hub dates March 1946. I think it's original to to bike.

 

[Wildcat]

That makes sense. My list shows "H,I,J,A and B" with 5 digits as 1946. "C and D" is 1947.

My Morrow shows "P" as 1946, but my list has no month designator. The number following the letter is the quarter of the year. Yours was made 3rd quarter 1946, matches up to the later serial number on the bike.

Edit: I've never seen the holes in the chain wheel like that one, maybe a customization when they added to the bike or maybe factory, they match up to the one hole usually there for the crank arm.

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

That makes sense. My list shows "H,I,J,A and B" with 5 digits as 1946. "C and D" is 1947.

My Morrow shows "P" as 1946, but my list has no month designator. The number following the letter is the quarter of the year. Yours was made 3rd quarter 1946, matches up to the later serial number on the bike.

So 3 indicates the 3rd quarter of 1946 not the month. Somewhere between July and September. Nice! Thanks for the info Wildcat!

 

[Sting Ray Lover]

I have been searching the web for "how to" remove surface rust and still preserve the patina. Looks like soaking the frame and fenders in Oxalic Acid would do the trick. Then wash in a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid and coat with linseed oil. Any advice on preservation methods?