Stingray Chopper Project: Agent Orange

[Weldinit]

I picked up a Stingray Chopper from a Wifes relative for $5 and we are going to do a little customizing project out of it. Nothing too wild but just make it a little different. Not really knowing which way its going or where it will end up. Paint is a definite. Hoping to get my hands on the Alsa Corp. Killer Cans Candy Orange for the frame. I love all they have in rattle cans. http://www.alsacorp.com/killercans.htm

I thought about doing all the spokes but looking at the photos again, I am wondering how it would look with a 26" or maybe a 28" wheel in front instead of the 24". Will probably get the OCC V handle bar for it. I like the look. I also want to make the rear fender wrap further around. Maybe get a second fender then cut and tig them together. Headlight and taillight. Plans are fluid and will flow as it goes. Slowly going to bring it back to life for my Wife to fool around on. It will probably get passed on to my daughter after that, when she is older. A fun family project.

Anyways... here are the "Before" shots:

 

[Joosh]

Sounds fun! $5 is pretty killer.

 

[Weldinit]

Sounds fun! $5 is pretty killer.

Thanks. It should be fun for us. Is there a "Parts Guy" or "Parts Gal" on here for these? Once I get into teardown, I will probably be looking for things.

2 things I know I need right now:
1. Chain Guard
2. Whatever it was up front to stop the forks from turning all the way to the side. Fork Stop or Fork Stay... I dunno what its called. Maybe at least a photo of it and maybe I can make one.

I am open to some ideas but nothing extreme. I don't have a welder as of recent so major framework is out. Throw ideas on the wall and see what sticks.

 

[Joosh]

I know that you can just buy some generic fork bumpers like these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/e ... QgodhVQArQ

Or you can zip tie a 2" section of tire on it!

 

[Weldinit]

Started the tear down last night. I am going to have to soak some wd40 into that thing. Cannot get the seat off because the post is rusted in. Same goes for the front fender mounts / highway foot pegs and a small screw to get the triple tree apart. Reflectors to the trash.

Chain does not seem to have a master link so I got to go get a chain breaker. Unless I just get a new chain and grab my grinder for the old one.

Missed one OCC Handlebar I was watching on fleabay so found another to bid on.

 

[patman73]

i have occ handel bar i would sell you cheap , make an offer /you pay shipping & it's yours !

 

[noodlenoggin]

Chain does not seem to have a master link so I got to go get a chain breaker.

They're like $7 at Wal-Mart. At least mine was.

 

[Weldinit]

i have occ handel bar i would sell you cheap , make an offer /you pay shipping & it's yours !

Thanks for the offer. I already have a bid in on this one so I would not miss out on at least bidding. If I don't get it, I will get hold of you. 8)

The Chain breaker, I think I am going to order a Parks, just in case I get into buying and building more. I understand it last longer than the Wally World versions. I am also having a hellofatime with getting the seat out and a couple of allen bolts. The post and bolts might be rust welded. Reading up on all the tricks so going to try them out one by one. Mapp gas torch might just come in handy for this. Might have to drill and re-tap the bolts though..grrr.

 

[Joosh]

My fave is the pedros pro version.

It has 4 of the chain guide thingies, so you dont have to hold the chain in place.

 

[Weldinit]

That looks good Joosh. Where do you get them and how much?

patmat... sent you a pm. I got sniped out.

New part ordered for the project. I think it will fit right in.

 

[Joosh]

Awesome chainring! Outside outfitters have the best prices.

 

[GTR]

That chainring is for an American bottom bracket, the occ's have English bottom brackets. You might be surprised how well that crank set might clean up in a good vinegar bath/soak. Probally still need to paint them but that's cheap. Granted the crank set itself isn't that great to start with.
If your still looking for bars and chainguard PM me. I got both off mine that I won't be using.

 

[Weldinit]

That chainring is for an American bottom bracket, the occ's have English bottom brackets.

Well crap. I guess that will provide a challenge of getting that thing to work then. I did not know all this but Google lead me to the differences.
I need it in my hands to see what I may be able to do and how bad I want to use that chainring. Sent you a pm also GTR

 

[Weldinit]

Finally!!!! Got the seat out. What a PITA! Now, what do I need to get the crank arms off? My sockets don't fit in there so I guess there must be a special thinwall socket or something. Got Allen bolts to grind / cut off and drill. Just rust welded in. So close to getting the frame stripped down. Brake cable broke so that was easy to pull out of the frame and save the plastic thingies that pop in the frame.

I am thinking of fiberglassing some fenders for this instead of cutting and hunting down and borrowing a welder.

 

[GTR]

The bottom bracket, the arms anyway will require a removal tool as the cranks are pressure fit. I was able to get the bolts out with a 14mm socket.
All my allen heads came out with a little time and wd40 soaking. Might try a boxend wrench on the allen wrench to get alittle more leverage. Plus those allen heads can take a lot of torque on them before they strip the head out.

 

[Weldinit]

Thanks. I got the crank arms now. My Craftsman universal sockets are a little thicker than regular sockets and would not fit in the indention ... so a regular 9/16th did it. Then a crowbar and a little moving pressure got the arms off the shaft. I need the new chainring to get in because I have an idea on how I can mate it up to the arm sort of like the original. Got one of the bearings out. Just got to get the chainring side out now. They need some cleaning and repacking.

The particular allen bolt heads seem soft. I already started stripping one head one with the wrench cheat. Not too big of a deal to drill and retap. Just a little pain to do. I have seen that type of bolt at Lowes in the drawers.

I used to be a Millwright way back when so I am used to having to "make it work" and fabricate as needed.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

I have welded that style of chainring to the back off 3 piece crank arms before with no problems, provided the cranks are steel of course...There is a tool designed for removing those cranks, they are fairly cheap and consist of a 14mm thinwall socket on one end and a specialized threaded puller on the other, makes easy light work of removal and does not risk bending the shaft, damaging the arms or the square taper. :wink:

Luke.

 

[Weldinit]

Yea, if I had access to a tig, I could wet them on pretty easily without much problem for the paint. I would load some aluminum around it to draw out the heat. Once I figure out what all I might have to weld, I might call my old instructor up and see if he could give me some welding booth time. Wouldn't be much time but enough to do a small amount. Prep at home then go there and just weld.

 

[Weldinit]

Trying to figure out if I want to incorporate a screw around welding project into the bike.

 

[noodlenoggin]

Incidentally, my son and I just did an OCC chopper just like yours for RRBBO8.
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=73350&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

I don't remember the crank being a problem. I took out the bolts and it came apart when I pulled on it. Actually, everything came apart pretty easily. Yours doesn't look rustier than ours was, but it must be.

I'm looking forward to your finished product!