StratoFlite (Spaceliner style)
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Now the fun stuff. I want to get some modern LED lighting in this tank without changing the external look.
For starters, I think I am going to reinforce the inside of the light housing with foil tape. It's still holding together, but all those cracks make me nervous.
In fact, I might just do a little patching on the outside with the tape too.
My hopes are not high for the existing light components.
I might be able to use the reflector part, if I can find small LED bulbs. It'd probably be best to just put new sockets in the reflector and wire them independent of any of the old wiring, if small plastic sockets with solderable metal contacts exist in a size that'd fit.
If I could make something like that work, I could squeeze a little battery box inside the crusty one and it could all be held in place by the original screw (that's the hole in the middle of the bottom of the existing battery tray).
Then I need to do something about switchgear...
As much as I am a fan of preserving anything original when possible, this stuff is horrible. I mean, if I'm going through all this I want it to actually work too.
I picked up this momentary on button yesterday, which would do nicely for the horn.
Oh did I mention the horn? It works fine when connected to 1.5 volts. Scared the bejeebers out of the dog here just a little while ago.
So has anyone experimented with horns/voltages? If the horn says 1.5 volts on it, would it be okay to run 3 or 6 through it?
I'd like to find one like this for the lights. I converted this old headlamp several years ago. I forget now where I got this little switch, but it was perfect.
I had been thinking about sticking two of these little flashlights in the housing, but in retrospect, I'd rather have a single bulb in the middle even if it's at the expense of some brightness. I like the look of the single bulb. Switching on my old conversion in the above pic reminded me of that.
(Also, I don't like the way the flashlight looks when it's off.)
Guess it's time to start researching electronic components online...
For starters, I think I am going to reinforce the inside of the light housing with foil tape. It's still holding together, but all those cracks make me nervous.
In fact, I might just do a little patching on the outside with the tape too.
My hopes are not high for the existing light components.
I might be able to use the reflector part, if I can find small LED bulbs. It'd probably be best to just put new sockets in the reflector and wire them independent of any of the old wiring, if small plastic sockets with solderable metal contacts exist in a size that'd fit.
If I could make something like that work, I could squeeze a little battery box inside the crusty one and it could all be held in place by the original screw (that's the hole in the middle of the bottom of the existing battery tray).
Then I need to do something about switchgear...
As much as I am a fan of preserving anything original when possible, this stuff is horrible. I mean, if I'm going through all this I want it to actually work too.
I picked up this momentary on button yesterday, which would do nicely for the horn.
Oh did I mention the horn? It works fine when connected to 1.5 volts. Scared the bejeebers out of the dog here just a little while ago.
So has anyone experimented with horns/voltages? If the horn says 1.5 volts on it, would it be okay to run 3 or 6 through it?
I'd like to find one like this for the lights. I converted this old headlamp several years ago. I forget now where I got this little switch, but it was perfect.
I had been thinking about sticking two of these little flashlights in the housing, but in retrospect, I'd rather have a single bulb in the middle even if it's at the expense of some brightness. I like the look of the single bulb. Switching on my old conversion in the above pic reminded me of that.
(Also, I don't like the way the flashlight looks when it's off.)
Guess it's time to start researching electronic components online...
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Two questions for the electrical engineers in the group:
1. Looking at my goofy diagram above (reposting here to make it easy to find), if I am using two LED bulbs that say they should be run on 3v, and I plan to use two 1.5v AA cells, I should wire them in parallel, correct? I believe that's what I drew (or tried to draw, anyway)...
2. Should the switch be on the positive or negative side of the batteries? I drew it in the negative side because I'm pretty sure that's how I've wired car accessories that I've done in the past. Is that correct?
If it matters, these are the lights I think I want to use.
Thanks for any input!
1. Looking at my goofy diagram above (reposting here to make it easy to find), if I am using two LED bulbs that say they should be run on 3v, and I plan to use two 1.5v AA cells, I should wire them in parallel, correct? I believe that's what I drew (or tried to draw, anyway)...
2. Should the switch be on the positive or negative side of the batteries? I drew it in the negative side because I'm pretty sure that's how I've wired car accessories that I've done in the past. Is that correct?
If it matters, these are the lights I think I want to use.
Thanks for any input!
So I got to playing with the foil tape. I hope I didn't overdo it.
I wasn't as worried about how it looked on the bottom, since it won't show as much.
I wasn't as worried about how it looked on the bottom, since it won't show as much.
Honestly it doesn't matter which side (positive or negative) you put the switch for lowV DC. You will however need to put the batteries in series in order to get 3V out of two 1.5V batteries.
yeah, I worded that poorly, now that I look at it...
I figured the batteries would be in series to get 3v. I'm wondering if the bulbs should be in series or parallel. I also don't know if that answer changes based on the use of LEDs or incandescent bulbs.
I figured the batteries would be in series to get 3v. I'm wondering if the bulbs should be in series or parallel. I also don't know if that answer changes based on the use of LEDs or incandescent bulbs.
Yes, put the bulbs in parallel. Each bulb will get the full 3V. If you do them in series, they will be dim, plus if one bulb burns out, it kills the circuit.
@SwissGuy is an electrical wizard! Any words of wisdom to share SG?
I like the big bars. They make the frame and all look larger, which shows off the curves.
Besides the things already mentioned (batteries in series, bulbs in parallel, switch where it suits best) I only would add to make sure to get the polarity right, as (most) LEDs only work in one direction. So in this case the tip should get positive, the case negative.
I somehow missed this build completely before and just had to do a catch up.
Great work so far bringing out the vintage beauty of this gem! Keep up the good work and get those lights glowing!
Great work so far bringing out the vintage beauty of this gem! Keep up the good work and get those lights glowing!
Try detoxit this stuff incredible will clean any switches and most contact points. I've use it on old tube amps where the knobs wouldn't move. Then follow it with a little 3 in 1 oilSadly, no. The good news is that everything was there: the wiring, switches, lamp sockets, even the bulbs. The bad news is that much of it is too badly rusted and deteriorated to make the original system work.
Part of what I'd like to do before the build-off ends on September 6 is get the lights updated to LEDs, but we shall see how far I get on that.
I have the maker one model up I've used it to cut leather and engrave it, wood veneer, and saved me a fortune on cute little signs for the wife.Sublimation is awesome itll infuse images with all sorts of things works great on metal.Heat treated vinyl works great on it to. That's the seat.
pm me I can help.
Since it has major cracks, why not cover the whole section with the tape?
I did see in several Amazon reviews of the bulbs and sockets I ended up buying that the polarity of the LEDs is the reverse of traditional incandescent E10 bulbs, so I will be sure to look out for that.
That's kind of what I ended up doing. I'll post pics of it on the bike soon.
Caught that too when I was looking for LEDs for my bike. There might be some with standard polarity, though. I don't know.
So I didn't need to buy the sockets. These little guys threaded right in where the light bulbs were.
And apparently the reflector that the outer contact threads into is still well insulated from the bar that touches with the center contact, because this all still works:
So I need to attach a couple of tabs for wire connectors: negative to the reflector plate, positive to the bar behind it that touches the center terminal of the bulbs. Then it's just a matter of running wires and installing the switch.
And apparently the reflector that the outer contact threads into is still well insulated from the bar that touches with the center contact, because this all still works:
So I need to attach a couple of tabs for wire connectors: negative to the reflector plate, positive to the bar behind it that touches the center terminal of the bulbs. Then it's just a matter of running wires and installing the switch.
Yeah, somehow they work with this build, which I did NOT expect. It all just seems to flow together.
