Looks like it's just sliding out of the dropout under the weight of a rider. Is there a way to make a lawyer tab for the bottom fork/dropout? Seems like if the axle remained all the way forward in the drop out, the fork would be plumb.
Swingrat
- Thread starter Wildcat
- Start date
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The fork is welded to the dropout.
I have another frame to cut up if I want. It's possible this build will happen after all.
I have another frame to cut up if I want. It's possible this build will happen after all.
"Upon further review"
This will work with the original layout as I had planned. I need to find a way to bend it back to get enough clearance and weld in a support from the crown to the BB. Depending on the space the wheel needs, it may be a straight line or possibly curved.
I need to shorten the space where the red line is an inch or so to get the pedals back up to a decent height.
This will work with the original layout as I had planned. I need to find a way to bend it back to get enough clearance and weld in a support from the crown to the BB. Depending on the space the wheel needs, it may be a straight line or possibly curved.
I need to shorten the space where the red line is an inch or so to get the pedals back up to a decent height.
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That would certainly help reduce some flex if you think that will fix it. I had planned to do that on my swing bike if I ever get back to it to make sure flex is minimized"Upon further review"
This will work with the original layout as I had planned. I need to find a way to bend it back to get enough clearance and weld in a support from the crown to the BB. Depending on the space the wheel needs, it may be a straight line or possible curved.
I need to shorten the space where the red line is an inch or so to get the pedals back up to a decent height.
View attachment 237961
If the wheel is exiting the dropout, you could try welding some metal on the top of the dropout and smoothing it in, and notch out the bottom of the dropout to keep the wheel from exiting while riding.
As for bending, sometimes a hammer (rubber mallet) can be a great tool for something you can't put on a mandrel. Not sure eif it would work here...
I have no slippage of the rear wheel in the dropout. I plan on attaching the frame back on that section and using it for leverage to bend it back. It bent by pedaling so it should bend back without much problem, in theory. I'm waiting for it to cool off late this afternoon to give it a try. Then finding some metal for the support and getting it welded in.
I stripped it down and just leaned my weight on the end and it's bent back. With an extra 1/4 inch for good measure. I'll have to refit the lock bar.
Digging through all my scrap, a part of the frame used for one of the headtubes may work as a support. I just need to trim the ends to fit for welding.
Digging through all my scrap, a part of the frame used for one of the headtubes may work as a support. I just need to trim the ends to fit for welding.
Work has resumed! This new brace will do the job, along with the braces already there is overkill but necessary.
Plenty of clearance for the tire. Since I have to repaint, I may try to do a splatter paint job again. The purple bar is from my wife's bike (she asked where her purple bike went right after I cut it up, but she approved of it the week before 
).
I will use red instead of pink with the purple and see how it looks. I may add some black accents also.
).I will use red instead of pink with the purple and see how it looks. I may add some black accents also.
The purple didn't work as a base coat. It turned black as it dried, so I went with black as the base and added a bunch of colors. It needs to dry overnight, then I can clear coat it.
Need to try my hand at splatter paint jobs.
This is starting to look like it might be structurally viable. I hope that frame doesn’t twist, once you get it off the straight and narrow
Either way, the paint job will get some attention.
Either way, the paint job will get some attention.
With all the braces I don't think it will flex.
All the parts are ready for assembly:
All the parts are ready for assembly:
I mean the other part of the frame. Perhaps you’ll find out what I mean when you actually ride it.
That's right, it will take some twisting force as the bike swings. If so, I'll have a brace welded in between the bars about halfway. Then this thing will really weigh a ton. The pipe I used is pretty thick and was hard to bend so I'm hopeful I won't need to do any more work on the frame.
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Pipe? Like water pipe?
Well it will go good downhill!
Well it will go good downhill!
It's almost together, just the chain and brake cable and I'm testing it. If I need more pedal clearance, I have a longer bolt that works with the springer that will raise the front an inch or two if it needs it.
It's all set for a test ride. Heavy rain today, maybe tomorrow.
The rain stopped so I took it for a ride, non-swing mode. The pedals still seem a little close to the ground, so I'm going to add the longer bolt to raise the front.
I've got two longer bolts and a bigger spring. The shortest bolt is the size that comes with the springer. With spacers I will be able to get the front at a better angle for steering also. Right now it's a little floppy.
