recoat time is crucial on enamels, specially rustoleum. Ya either gotta clear it within 24 hours, or wait a looong time. And they are vague when ya ask them....I rolled a complete station wagon,2 tone,with rustoleum
thats the last can of rustoleum i'll ever purchase!
- Thread starter icyuod2
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All this stuff is put together by 'chemical engineers' I think......compatibility is always going to be an issue and the 'fine print' doesnt always tell me what I want to know. As said prev. by someone, it is probably best to use the same brand primer, color and clearcoat to avoid an interaction.
I feel your pain after doing all that work!
I feel your pain after doing all that work!
You might try duplicolor clear automotive laquer . I have used their products over top of different paints and primers without issue. On a different note, I was in a pinch for red primer last night. Against my better judgement I purchased rustoleum. It was a large can with a normal spray tip and "33% free". I quickly learned why they give you 33% free. 33% is the approximate amount of paint that winds up in puddles on the floor, all over the can, and on your hands. On top of that, the coverage was shoddy compared to the walmart brand colorplace. Bubbles formed in the primer minutes after application. And it looks like it's going to take forever to dry. I think I'll give it a few days to dry, lightly sand it, and try priming with a laquer primer. I have always had good luck using laquer paint over top of acrylic primers, so hopefully this will work. I don't want to go to the trouble of removing the Rustoleum, but I don't think I could stand painting the entire bike with rustoleum either. Especially doing two-tone with possible pinstriping.Peatbog said:
Oh Boy........
As I read that it came clearly to mind that your paintjob is only as good as the preperation, and your base is now messed up! If you dont want the agony of wasting more time and money by having it fail, I think you should get that junk off of there.........
As I read that it came clearly to mind that your paintjob is only as good as the preperation, and your base is now messed up! If you dont want the agony of wasting more time and money by having it fail, I think you should get that junk off of there.........
lacquer will craze the enamel under it...just sayin.....
Never had a problem with Rustos, but i always knew that the rustos with the gun nozzle might be a problem. Krylons are good too, sometimes when i want to get fancy i use Euro paints Like Belton, or Monatana but those brand the paints are pretty thin but they have an insane amount off different colors.
Most of my bikes are laquer color over enamel primer. I've never had a problem using laquer over enamel, but always a problem using enamel over laquer. i think enamel requires more thinner in the can to spray properly and the extra thinner is what lifts the laquer. However, I did decide to spend the time to remove the RO, and went back with a nice etching primer I got at Ollie's for 99 cents a can. It's nice to know I can pay $1 for something 100x better than a $4 can of rustoleum. I was talking to a chemical specialist from Wake Forest University tonight and he said that Rustoleum is designed to work best on rusty metals, and that the oxidation absorbs the chemical that causes it to react differently than other paints. Any truth to that? I have no idea but it sounded good. I think Rustoleum has gotten their last dollar from me though.
