Nice!
that’s a beauty.
that’s a beauty.
The Great (Haro) Escape
- Thread starter horsefarmer
- Start date
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Final assembly of crank, took awhile to get quite a bit of super fine gritty mud residue out of the BB.
The cartridge I pulled out was full of grit also and sloppy!
Test fit another set of pedals. Nervous all the pedals I try seem to fit loose to the cranks. Ugg. Do I have to use locktite on them?
I always use blue on them
Make sure you are using 9/16 pedal axles and not 1/2". Virtually all 3 piece cranks use 9/16. Before you accidentally round out the threads. They should fit tight otherwise, no locktite needed.
Yep she's 9/16". I've tried 4 different pedal sets including these vintage "998" jobbies, and they all fit loose (on both sides) with side to side play till snugged up. The crankset is a cheap from amazon thing, and it's my first try at external bearing bottom bracket install but I want the pedals to stay on....
Also one pair of pedals came with thin washers that some online say can help with pedal squeeks and maybe I should use those as well?
This is the threadlocker I have :
https://www.grainger.com/product/VIBRA-TITE-Threadlocker-Series-121-49CJ64
I believe compares to locktite 242 blue.
Sounds like your crankset is the culprit then. And yes, if they come with the thin pedal washers, def use them. Most all of the Shimano clip-less pedals now come with those washers, and I think other companies are using them too to add security.
So, the bottom bracket is fine though, right? Just the pedals that are loose fitting?
So, the bottom bracket is fine though, right? Just the pedals that are loose fitting?
Yes, the BB spins very nice. The arms are aluminum so threads will be more fragile. I know they say your pedal threads should have an undercut between threads and part that contacts crank face to max grip of threads. Maybe sloppy threads help alignment and grip of threads, but I don't want loose pedals.
Try a regular bolt and see if you get the same movement. Take the pedals out of the equation.
Also you could grab a cheap thread gauge and check them to see if they are cut right. The teeth should seat in the lands and grooves tight enough that light shouldn't pass through
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Stan...NQWKUfnEcuMk8wQwKdMaAp0MEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
If the gauge is sloppy on there that's your basis to return or exchange those cranks
Also you could grab a cheap thread gauge and check them to see if they are cut right. The teeth should seat in the lands and grooves tight enough that light shouldn't pass through
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Stan...NQWKUfnEcuMk8wQwKdMaAp0MEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
If the gauge is sloppy on there that's your basis to return or exchange those cranks
Maybe try some Frenchy pedals if you have any lying around. Lyotard branded pedals seem to be more sung than Asian-made pedals every time I use them.
Tried a few of the pedals on a Shimano Deore crank and fit is just slightly sloppier than the crank on the Haro.
Maybe I was seeing a problem that isn't there. I will use the medium strength threadlocker as a preventative measure.
Maybe I was seeing a problem that isn't there. I will use the medium strength threadlocker as a preventative measure.
Watching this one, I really like 90s mtnbk frame geometry.
More details on the 1x8 conversion? Ive Seen it done differnent ways
What's the status of the Judy's? I have a thread on here about replacing elastomers with readily available urethane bar stock, it's not unique to rock shocks or bike world. I think the Judy's have thru holes in the elastomers.
More details on the 1x8 conversion? Ive Seen it done differnent ways
What's the status of the Judy's? I have a thread on here about replacing elastomers with readily available urethane bar stock, it's not unique to rock shocks or bike world. I think the Judy's have thru holes in the elastomers.
@Indyjps - The Judy's are in fine but totally collapsed condition. I remember reading your thread awhile back...
You would not believe how much gunky old lube and dirt I got out of the Ol' Deore LX.
This thing is a tank! No slop at all! Made of metal and solid!
Chasing dirt from every nook and crannie... Assembling with care.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Yeah man, Deore is the good stuff. Anything higher level got flimsy and finicky, weight losses came at a cost. As for the Indy, you can get coil springs to replace the elastomers, tuned to your weight, for about $45. Will bring their right back to life. Hardest part will be getting the old crumbly chunks out of there
Shimano Deore XT M750, best 9-speed mountain derailleur ever made IMO.
Great to see this one come together. I really like the look of it with the red tires and red shiny bits.
OMG
Here I am on the bottom of page 2.
Have not done anything bike related for weeks.
Back on it today?
Here I am on the bottom of page 2.
Have not done anything bike related for weeks.
Back on it today?
I’m in the same situation.
every time I have an opportunity to do some bike stuf, it either rains, or something comes up.
every time I have an opportunity to do some bike stuf, it either rains, or something comes up.
Got the chain fitted and the thumbshifter ungunked so it functions now.
Getting the gears spinning led to the discovery that the rear rim was wonky and there were MANY super loose spokes!
Used a tip I read here and utilized a salvaged computer hard drive magnet and a paperclip to make a pointer and adjusted the spokes to get the wheel spinning true. So much better than a zip tie. It's good the brake bosses are steel!
With a functional rear brake I took it for a short test ride. Only used the first 3 speeds but it was not super duper high geared, so easy to pedal.
This is only the second time I used an oval chainring in a build.
Chainline when in first gear looks ugly but it works OK. I am debating pulling the crank and removing one of 3 shims/spacers that offsets the drive side bearing from the frame at the bottom bracket. I think they are 3mm thick. The tricky thing is the oval chainring gains diameter when the crank is in vertical position so it gobbles up the free space in the chain stay area!
The bars seem to fit in the looks department, and are comfortable for me sitting upright.
Getting the gears spinning led to the discovery that the rear rim was wonky and there were MANY super loose spokes!
Used a tip I read here and utilized a salvaged computer hard drive magnet and a paperclip to make a pointer and adjusted the spokes to get the wheel spinning true. So much better than a zip tie. It's good the brake bosses are steel!
With a functional rear brake I took it for a short test ride. Only used the first 3 speeds but it was not super duper high geared, so easy to pedal.
This is only the second time I used an oval chainring in a build.
Chainline when in first gear looks ugly but it works OK. I am debating pulling the crank and removing one of 3 shims/spacers that offsets the drive side bearing from the frame at the bottom bracket. I think they are 3mm thick. The tricky thing is the oval chainring gains diameter when the crank is in vertical position so it gobbles up the free space in the chain stay area!
Attachments
This just looks right!
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
The angles of the bar look great with the top tube. Super sweet Haro, looks like it just wants to go and go and go!
