Top Fool

[Psychographic]

Nice work on the guard. It will be fun to see a full view of the bike soon. How far down the list of parts mods are you?

No rush, I'm just anxious to see it together!

The guard is the last thing I can think of before stripping it down for paint and final assembly. My biggest challenge to finishing this is the funding, work is dead right now, and bills are more important than a bike.

I'm getting tired of looking at parts and sub assemblies too, I want to see a whole bike!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

bills are more important than a bike.

Those all sound like English words, but that statement makes absolutely no sense to me.

 

[Psychographic]

Those all sound like English words, but that statement makes absolutely no sense to me.

The broker you get, the more they make sense!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I can't ride the electric bill, what good is it to me?

 

[handyandy1100]

I can't ride the electric bill, what good is it to me?

That's true. You can be homeless and still have a bicycle.


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Psychographic]

The front mount was off a small amount, so I cut it off and made a new one. This one is on the money and nicer looking.

Look who's back. The chain dragged along the bottom of the guard ( I pretty much thought it would), so I'm going to try using the tensioner again. I might have to add a small hump to the bottom of the guard, I won't know until I add the link back into the chain.

I also finished the mount for the shifter. I cut the end of a female shock/spring bolt and welded it to the section of handlebar I used to make the mount.

 

[Psychographic]

The tensioner is where it will work and look good. It mounts to the bottom of the spring mount/bottom brace. I have clearance everywhere I need it.

Right now the back of the guard fits on the flange of the nut for the idler pulleys with about a 1/32" gap at the most. People have been worried that I might have a clearance/movement problem when the suspension moves. When I loosened the spring and collapsed the rear suspension, the nut just touched the edge of the hole, so I'm not worried about that.

I like how the pedals look, the black and chrome matches the chainring and bolts.

 

[Psychographic]

I decided to try to make a rear mount using the bolt that holds the pivot parts for the rear suspension. Using a 1' longer than stock bolt, a 1" x 3/8" steel spacer and a small piece of 1/8" x 3/4" flat stock.

Mounted in place,it's drilled for a Rivnut, but that will interfere with the bolt, so I'll try to weld a regular nut in place.

The rear mount on the guard.

In place and cleaned up a bit, I also enlarged the rear hole.

Now I just need to get 1/4" taken off the end of the pulley adapter.

 

[Psychographic]

I stopped to visit a friend of mine who cut down the adapter for me. I can now put the nut on it facing the right way, I also turned it around so it faces the right direction. I'm guessing the reason the cogs never unscrewed themselves is the drive cog pushed against the one going to the wheel and acting like a lock ring.

I'm trying to think of anything else I need to do before I break it down for paint. Brought the Fool outside for an update pic.

 

[SpikeFC]

I'm trying to think of anything else I need to do before I break it down for paint. Brought the Fool outside for an update pic.

View attachment 109893

This is getting serious... super sweet!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

The ride video is going to be EPIC!!

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

I assume you’ve shifted through all the gears to confirm operation and no rubbing as the rear chain changes positions. I think you mentioned that once the tires are on, the chainguard won’t scrape under load/suspension flex.

For me, I always try to get bikes to the ‘rider’ stage, do a proper shakedown run before preparing to paint (experience is the best teacher).

You’ve taken this bike down a rather unique path, looking forward to seeing it in final color



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Psychographic]

I assume you’ve shifted through all the gears to confirm operation and no rubbing as the rear chain changes positions. I think you mentioned that once the tires are on, the chainguard won’t scrape under load/suspension flex.

For me, I always try to get bikes to the ‘rider’ stage, do a proper shakedown run before preparing to paint (experience is the best teacher).

You’ve taken this bike down a rather unique path, looking forward to seeing it in final color



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All the gears work, and clear the guard, although I probably will trim about 1/8" off the back of the guard for a little more rear chain clearance. The bike has been ridden and I've raised the rear of the bike 1"since, but I do lose a little as I didn't have the guard on at the time, so I'm really only raising it about 3/4". That is with the rear spring just tight enough to not move around, I can stiffen it if I need to.

 

[Psychographic]

Today was a disappointment. My lack of knowledge bit me again, I ordered a gold anodized front brake (thinking they are all the same size) and it's too long. The ebay ad even had the dimensions of the brake, so I only have myself to blame.

I decided to take the Schwinn one I have, polish and paint it. But of course the cable end/adjuster broke off while taking it apart. I did finally get it out, but now have nothing to replace it with. I tried the one off the new brake, but it doesn't seem to have the same threads.

 

[OddJob]

Today was a disappointment. My lack of knowledge bit me again, I ordered a gold anodized front brake (thinking they are all the same size) and it's too long. The ebay ad even had the dimensions of the brake, so I only have myself to blame.

I decided to take the Schwinn one I have, polish and paint it. But of course the cable end/adjuster broke off while taking it apart. I did finally get it out, but now have nothing to replace it with. I tried the one off the new brake, but it doesn't seem to have the same threads.

Do you have a photo of the old brake that you are trying replace the cable end / adjuster barrel? I might have one, or access to one that would do the trick. Brand name of the brake caliper would be helpful, or any numbers stamped on the back.

 

[Psychographic]

Do you have a photo of the old brake that you are trying replace the cable end / adjuster barrel? I might have one, or access to one that would do the trick. Brand name of the brake caliper would be helpful, or any numbers stamped on the back.

Thank you for the offer OJ.

I found another brake to use. I think the threads just need to be cleaned out on the one that froze in place. I compared the threads on the adjusters, they are the same, so it must be tight from residue when the aluminum galvanized to the steel.

 

[OddJob]

That happens on those mixed metals quite frequently. The aluminum oxidizes and if the corrosion builds up enough, can almost lock those pieces together.

Good luck with the new brake!

 

[Psychographic]

As I figured it would be impossible to find another cover for my derailleur, I decided to make a mold and cast my own. It took a couple of modifications to get them done as the original part has some very thin parts that were just too brittle to reproduce in resin. I've got some pinholes to fill after I cut the pour holes off. I have two more of these derailleurs, so it was worth the effort of making the mold.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

... I'm trying to think of anything else I need to do before I break it down for paint. Brought the Fool outside for an update pic...

A nice magnesium skid plate...

Carl.

 

[Psychographic]

The front brake is cleaned up and painted. I just need to find a nicer washer for the front of it.

The derailleur covers are painted. They really clean things up, it was worth the effort to make the molds and cast them.

I've got a pair of gold ano jockey wheels coming to finish off the derailleur.