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Very cool @Wildcat I have a 41' Elgin with original skiptooth sprocket all rechromed and the frame has been sandblasted and painted satin black. It has a nice set of modern wheels from an Electra cruiser with a conversion cog on it. Rides very nicely.
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I won it at the first Chicago Taildraggers event I went to (lucky raffle ticket) and I've been hanging with them ever since. Now it's my goto for tweed rides. I also used a conversion cog on my "Wild One" muscle bike that hangs in my studio and I have one cog left.
 
Ok this minus- the silver/chrome brake cable clamps in wrought to me. to lose the zip ties. is done then glam shots for voting.:113:
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now the bad news this Blue Blur may not be finished in time.:cry: all parts I thought were here. but guy at local bike shop. said he could sell me derailleur cables. but because my frame. lacks shifter cable stops. he thinks my thumb shifter levers will not work.
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but I just looked at all 3 my Road bikes I still have working. none have the cable stop he claims I need. so what am I not getting??

he said if I get bar end shifters it might be doable. but he would have to order them for 160.00 or I can find a set IE like these.

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so now stuck on what to do? IE what to believe is the way to go. but at least 3 out off 4 builds done not to bad.
 
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Front derailleurs used to have built in cable stops, ie 60's, 70's, and early 80's lower end steel derailleurs and probably some aluminum derailleurs by Suntour, Atom, ect. About the time that 27" wheels were abandoned so were built in cable stop front derailleurs. However millions of bikes were built with just this type of derailleur and if you are near used bike shops and community bicycle repair co-ops you will be able to find one of these old derailleurs. Most modern front derailleurs run the shifting cable under the bottom bracket with either a bent steel pipe holding the cable there or a bolt on nylon plate to direct the cable around the bottom bracket and up to the front derailleur. No cable stop needed. All the rear derailleurs I've ever come across have a built in cable stop. I think your bike shop owner is concerned about your front derailleur. I run a couple of older Suntour front derailleurs with built in cable stops and they work beautifully. You might check under the bottom bracket to see if their are cable guides under there. If there is a threaded bolt hole then probably that bike had a guide bolted on. I see no reason you can't use end bar shifters or any other kind of shifter and run outer housing all the way to the derailleurs if you don't have open cable stops built onto the bike. Remember to have some sort of cable length adjuster built into the system. They make shift adjustments much easier.
 
Front derailleurs used to have built in cable stops, ie 60's, 70's, and early 80's lower end steel derailleurs and probably some aluminum derailleurs by Suntour, Atom, ect. About the time that 27" wheels were abandoned so were built in cable stop front derailleurs. However millions of bikes were built with just this type of derailleur and if you are near used bike shops and community bicycle repair co-ops you will be able to find one of these old derailleurs. Most modern front derailleurs run the shifting cable under the bottom bracket with either a bent steel pipe holding the cable there or a bolt on nylon plate to direct the cable around the bottom bracket and up to the front derailleur. No cable stop needed. All the rear derailleurs I've ever come across have a built in cable stop. I think your bike shop owner is concerned about your front derailleur. I run a couple of older Suntour front derailleurs with built in cable stops and they work beautifully. You might check under the bottom bracket to see if their are cable guides under there. If there is a threaded bolt hole then probably that bike had a guide bolted on. I see no reason you can't use end bar shifters or any other kind of shifter and run outer housing all the way to the derailleurs if you don't have open cable stops built onto the bike. Remember to have some sort of cable length adjuster built into the system. They make shift adjustments much easier.
thanks before I painted the frame many years back it had a nylon plate under bottom bracket. but it was held on by double sided tape. not by a screw.
 
@Slow-Rider clamp on cable stops. Usually on the down tube often kept in place by heart shaped weld-ons.
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But I think all you really need is a continuous cable and some cable clips or even just zipties. If your LBS says your parts won't work because of no frame stops, then both of your pieces have the end needed to seat the cable.
 

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