Trueing tension?

[Mr. Kool]

Maybe a silly question but which tension do you need when trueing a wheel? And how to control it?

Thank you.

 

[Big Ape]

I am in no way an expert, but when I am finishing up, I actually pluck the spokes like a guitar string and try to get the same sound from each one. Most times I do have to hold the crossing spoke away from it a bit so it doesn't dampen the sound.

 

[Bicycle808]

+1 Big Ape isn't the only one who gauges tension by sound.

Full disclosure: I'm a no-talent hack, so I tension by feel, but there are tools to measure the tension, and many modern rims will have a max recommended tension spec, although finding those specs for old wheels will be difficult and in most cases, impossible. I've spoken to and read a lot of old-timey wrenches who say that, BITD, they used to tension the spokes til the point where the wheel just began to taco, and then back off a quarter turn, but that would make me nervous. Personally, I just tension them til they all "feel" right to me, which is completely not scientific, and it's impossible to describe accurately on a forum post. Just remember that, on a non-dished wheel, you want the tension to be as close to uniform as possible on the spokes, and you'll want the spokes to be as tense as you can get them without undue stress to the rim or the spokes at the bends....

 

[user 135]

For cruiser wheels, just go with sound or what feels good. If you really want to know, this is thorough read. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-tension-measurement

 

[Mr. Kool]

Wow, a lot of reading!!

Thank you for your answers.
I'll continue to apply the "feel" way.

 

[user 15387]

I take the wheels of another bike I have that I know to work well and match that tension by "feel". I use sound on wheels I do not laterally interlace (which usually is to duplicate a vintage wheel). But I find sound harder to use on wheels with laterally interlaced spokes, which I did with all but a couple of the set I have built.

 

[Bendix]

...
I'll continue to apply the "feel" way.

Good plan. That will help you retain your sanity!

If a person is building a complete wheel and uses a methodical approach the spokes will be uniformly tensioned.

If it's a used 'rat rod' wheel you just do the best you can to get SOME tension on ALL the spokes while being as true and round as practical.

Only perfect components are capable of perfect uniformity. Who can gauge if a pluck is 5%, 10%, 20% different from another? What musical note equates to 120kgf? 100 kgf? 50kgf? The fact they simply sound 'different' is meaningless from a practical perspective.

I've seen customers about to beat their heads against the wall from needless frustration over the sound of their spokes. IMHO it's time for this advice to go away.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I'll be building my first set next week when the spokes arrive.
I will attach my guitar tuner, that goes by vibrations to tune...
Just to see if I can tune it to a uniform note/frequency.
Should be interesting.

Carl.

 

[kingfish254]

I'll be building my first set next week when the spokes arrive.
I will attach my guitar tuner, that goes by vibrations to tune...
Just to see if I can tune it to a uniform note/frequency.
Should be interesting.

Carl.

 

[order99]

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Carl.

 

[Mr. Kool]

Just spent this evening rebuilding my first wheel. Wheel is the original one from my AMF muscle bike. It was really rusted with all spokes loose and a big wobble.
After cleaning and servicing the Bendix hub I have trued the wheel.
For a first I'm happy with the result. Wobble now is around 1mm. Not sure the wheel actually on the bike is better!!
Used the "sound" feeling and it was really helpful. Hope it will works. It was interesting and I think I will do the front one which also have a wobble. The next on the list is my Hawthorne rat. Its wheels are really bad!!!

Just a question? What happens if spokes have too much tension? I don't think this is the case but...
Thank you.