types of rattle can paint
- Thread starter kim_dude
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
I would say the most durable is the spray paint with the hardener you have to activate, expensive but closet to automotive paint you can get
We are soon going to be having a thread specific (and there have been several (many?) in the past) that I am really looking forward to as I have stuff Ive put off. Seems that some of the paints that worked well in the past dont do so well now, and some have luck with one brand and not another. Im looking for the 'common denominator', which in large portion is going to come down to proper prep.
But, for 'quick & dirty' Ive had good luck with BBQ grill black.
But, for 'quick & dirty' Ive had good luck with BBQ grill black.
CCR
Mouth-Breather
Fav for me by far is Krylon brand stuff, still havent found any preferable brand for a rattle can orange or yellow though, gravity seems to pull the color down as soon as it hits the part no mater the brand.
No offense CCR but sounds like your spraying to wet. Or it could be to cold. Full coverage with 1 coat is is not worth the gamble. Mutiple light coats with ample flash time in between is how you get a nice paint job.
Nito
Nito
CCR
Mouth-Breather
No offense taken, I will say I prefer light coats myself too and like to think I know what I'm doing but it's hard to tell a guy what he's doing wrong without standing next to him sometimes lol. I appreciate the advice. Just usually end up in a fit using Pumpkin Orange specifically with the color pull I'm referring too, first experience with a couple lamps my wife wanted painted, then tyring to paint a fork with it. My brother had the same problems / same color painting some wooden letters for his kids room too lol. Sun Yellow also gives me problems but it's usually because the color doesn't look even after I've sworn its covered to my liking and went on to clearing it. I have successfully used Rustoleum Marigold on couple bikes (little bit darker color) but the tackiness seems to go on forever with Rustoleum stuff and I try to avoid it.
Paint can be weird sometimes. The last time I used Krylon satin black I swore I would never use Krylon again. I bought 2 different cans from 2 different retailers and tried them both. It seemed like they were about half "clear coat" as I kept spraying and spraying and it wouldn't cover. I ended up with about 6 coats before it finally covered, which is ridiculous for generic black paint. 
That why I say 'stuff changes'........I like to do a test spay on 'junk' or non-important projects before going at the important things.
Especially with the cheaper paints I suspect they are cutting corners by cutting pigment, or just arent as good with quality control. With paint, 'you get what you pay for' may be too true.
Especially with the cheaper paints I suspect they are cutting corners by cutting pigment, or just arent as good with quality control. With paint, 'you get what you pay for' may be too true.
I have had the best luck with Krylon but I think a lot depends on where you live and the weather. In Fla. you have to pick paint days carefully due to the humidity. I like the Kylon because it dries really fast than after sitting for a day or two it is pretty hard (for a rattle can) I use the acrilic enamel clear over all my paint which helps with the durability.
Dupli-Color. Flows on better than any other paint that I've tried...
rustoleum or krylon... get it at a good auto parts store, available in most most auto colors and many custom colors too!
Heat lamp and a very low speed fan while its drying
makes a big difference too...
rustoleum or krylon... get it at a good auto parts store, available in most most auto colors and many custom colors too!
Heat lamp and a very low speed fan while its drying
makes a big difference too...
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 164
- Reaction score
- 24
Application of heat after is important too, I agree. I've put frames into a doghouse sized plywood box with a oil-filled radiator, and I've put them into a hot attic in the summertime, inside a large plastic closet/suit hanger storage thingee that people use for moth-proofing to keep the dust from settling. That worked well here in Tejas where the outside temp is over 100 anyways. I paint early in the AM and then leave it in the heat for at least two days to bake it on, then clearcoat. I haven't been baking the clear - maybe I should? Opinions?
I've heard of people getting junker cooking ovens and laying them on their backs out in an open space under a tent or teepee, etc. to try to simulate baked enamel finish but I have not tried that. Sounds dangerous.
I don't have a favorite brand yet. Still trying krylon vs rustoleum and occasionally mixing the two when using the black. I've gotten to where if I am very careful and very thorough I can do okay with a rattle can but it never looks as good as powder coating, and by the time I've gone to all the trouble of sanding between coats and clear coating, etc I usually wish I had just taken it to the powder coater. But the expense keeps me where I am usually and for now I'm sticking w Krylon out of inexperience. I'm happy to try whatever gets the most thumbs up however.
I've heard of people getting junker cooking ovens and laying them on their backs out in an open space under a tent or teepee, etc. to try to simulate baked enamel finish but I have not tried that. Sounds dangerous.
I don't have a favorite brand yet. Still trying krylon vs rustoleum and occasionally mixing the two when using the black. I've gotten to where if I am very careful and very thorough I can do okay with a rattle can but it never looks as good as powder coating, and by the time I've gone to all the trouble of sanding between coats and clear coating, etc I usually wish I had just taken it to the powder coater. But the expense keeps me where I am usually and for now I'm sticking w Krylon out of inexperience. I'm happy to try whatever gets the most thumbs up however.
A couple things I do.....First, if you are painting a light color like yellow. Don't attempt to spray it over an unevenly colored surface or a dark colored one. Yellows and other light colors can be very translucent and you'd have to spray twenty coats to not see what is underneath. I really like the white rustoleum primers, as they seem to make the topcoats really pop. Either spray a matching basecoat first using white or silver, or use a white or light grey final primer coat under yellow.
Another thing I do especially with primers and flat colors with lots of pigment to get shaken up, is I mechanically shake the paint before spraying it at all. I use an old Wahl massager picked up in a yard sale. It is one of those things old time barbers used to use to give customers a neck massage....It has spring bands where your hand would usually go, to strap the can to it, and it will shake a can to perfection in a minute or two. I just strap the can in and turn it on and set it on an old blanket so the floor doesn't get scratched up. I used to do a lot of camo painting and couldn't shake up a can well enough to spray a full can before I started using the Wahl. The older all metal motorized one seems to work the best for paint shaking. I've seen them for as low as $2.00 and as high as $20.
Keeping the paint and bike warm helps too.
Another thing I do especially with primers and flat colors with lots of pigment to get shaken up, is I mechanically shake the paint before spraying it at all. I use an old Wahl massager picked up in a yard sale. It is one of those things old time barbers used to use to give customers a neck massage....It has spring bands where your hand would usually go, to strap the can to it, and it will shake a can to perfection in a minute or two. I just strap the can in and turn it on and set it on an old blanket so the floor doesn't get scratched up. I used to do a lot of camo painting and couldn't shake up a can well enough to spray a full can before I started using the Wahl. The older all metal motorized one seems to work the best for paint shaking. I've seen them for as low as $2.00 and as high as $20.
Keeping the paint and bike warm helps too.
I used Rustoleum's Sandable Primer + Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel on my steel Motobecane. The finish is very nice, a smooth deep matte black even with my poor technique. It was a bit over 30 degrees too. For the aluminum parts I used Krylon Dual Paint/Primer in matte black. The colors are very close. The Krylon sprayer was my favorite.
I also tried Ironlak and Montana paints for some other projects. I didn't care for those too much. Ironlak was the best of the two, the Montana stunk like a #$%^&*. I had a hard time with the sprayers on both of those. The colors seemed to spray more consistently than the black I bought. I tested these in around 60 degree weather, no primer.
I also tried Ironlak and Montana paints for some other projects. I didn't care for those too much. Ironlak was the best of the two, the Montana stunk like a #$%^&*. I had a hard time with the sprayers on both of those. The colors seemed to spray more consistently than the black I bought. I tested these in around 60 degree weather, no primer.
There is 'something' about sunshine that really cures a paint or varnish too. The thing is to not try to spay outdoors if there is any high humidity or even a slight breeze. But after you spay and it set up a bit take it out and get the sun on it. Its best to have prepared a place ahead of time and be practiced in the transfer (dont ask how I know.....).
I use Krylon , Rustoleum or even Dupli-color it depends who has the color I'm looking for. The problem with Krylon and a few of the others is that they quietly changed their formulas a while back. If you have the time and patience to wait for it to dry Rustoleum is somewhat durable. Krylon is what I use the most it's just not that durable but it's inexpensive.
Most rattle can paints simply suck. That said, I had some aluminum rims that I painted with a 2K epoxy primer, and then hit with Krylon paint and satin clear, and have been pretty happy with the durability. For my next frame project I will use an 2K epoxy primer followed by a 1K top coat and then a 2K clear over the whole thing.
Yeah, it will be expensive, but when I think of all the work I put in to prepping a frame, I figure it's worth it to me.
BTW, it's important to dress like Walter White when you use this stiff - it can kill you.
Yeah, it will be expensive, but when I think of all the work I put in to prepping a frame, I figure it's worth it to me.
BTW, it's important to dress like Walter White when you use this stiff - it can kill you.
I was thinking about trying graffiti paints like Kobra or Montana on a white base primer and clear lacquer finish...has anyone any experience on using this kind of spray paint?
I was at our local Tractor Supply Co. (TSC) yesterday and browsing the racks, they have a nice selection of spray can tractor (oh, go figure!) paints. My thought is they are going to be pretty heavy duty. I saw some epoxy hardener too, along with canned paint to run in a sprayer.
Im gonna havta try some.
BTW, these colors are not the tricked out flashy stuff, but the old school basics.
Im gonna havta try some.
BTW, these colors are not the tricked out flashy stuff, but the old school basics.
I generally use Duplicolor engine enamel. It hardens pretty well, generally doesn't need primer and is grease/fuel/heat resistant. Camo paint works well too if you're into extremely flat colors. I got two cans of green waiting to be applied to my frame right now. Oh here's one more tip: In the past I've used spray on bed liner for my rims. Just make sure the bike is a coaster brake bike.
