BO15 WAHA-SEDB-3 (TRIKE-TOR...2nd Place)

[MazdaFlyer]

On Saturday I tackled truing up the rear wheel. A few stubborn rusted/stuck spikes wouldn’t let me get it true. So ditched the idea and pulled a wheel off another bike that’s been collecting garage dust. It is a repopulated wheel, China rim, Mexico Bendix cog and Japan Shimnano hub, with 12ga...spokes who knows.
Anyway I cleaned up the wheel set and decided while I had it all apart I’d add a larger tooth cog. I started with a 23T. So I put the wheel back on only to find the the 23T wasn’t going to allow chain adjustment and tire combination to roll. So back off and back on with a 22T cog. Wheel back on chain length adjusted and tire spins free but chain and tire rubbing on fender at chain guard.

So I got out the dremel and proceeded to remove a section of the fender. I had to remove the chainguard and use a piece of scrap metal to protect the tire while cutting.

That frees up the tire and lets the chain do it’s thing without rubbing. The tire is close to the front of chain stays. The chain will stretch some and I can move the wheel back some when retensioning the chain.
I like the old patina on the old wheel but it’s too far out of true to roll well. It should easier to pedal the new setup at 22 x 44 ratio.

Still need to radius bumper corners and secure the bumper mounts. Lights may still get power.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

The new gear ratio is much easier to pedal.
I added radii to bumper corners and added anchor screws to bumper support rods, simple detail stuff. Spring steel is hard to drill through, the clips on the hood are apparently spring steel.

Still need to add disconnect terminals for the wiring to horn button incase I need to remove the hood. When I do that, I’ll experiment with powering the running lights.
During my test ride I find that I have a rattle from hood hitting the support angle structure. I thought I had things tied down and isolated, guess not. So some vibration isolation is in order, if you can’t see it it may be crude. Trike-Tor has provided resistance since May 1st...and continues to this day.

I like the fit of the tire/wheel and fender.
Parting thought: The seat post is a quill type. A layback post would help the riding position geometry.

 

[kingfish254]

A laidback seatpost would look cool on here. If you need a tractor seat spring, I can get you one for cheap .
That wheel does fill out the fender nicely.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Thought I was far enough along I’d rough out a parts list.

WAHA-SEDB…Trike-Tor

1. 1955 Wards Hawthorne frame, fender, chainguard, quill seatpost, crank.
2. 1950’s Sears David Bradley tractor hood.
3. 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 1/8 steel angle.
4. 1 x 1 x 1/8 steel angle.
5. 1-1/4 x 1/8 steel flat bar.
6. 5/16” threaded steel rod.
7. 3/8” dia steel bar.
8. 2 x 4 treated wood stock.
9. 1-1/2 x 12ga perforated zinc coated steel.
10. 5/8” steering spindle knuckle set from eBay.
11. 3/8” Heim female tie rod ends.
12. Donor fork of unknown origin.
13. 1/4” Bolts, washers, nuts, various lengths.
14. 5/16” Bolts, washers, nuts, various lengths.
15. 3/8” Bolts, washers, nuts, various lengths.
16. Technomic 1” long quill stem.
17. Wald touring bars and black bar tape.
18. Model T era wooden steering wheel.
19. Wooden steering knob.
20. Synthetic cork grips.
21. Origin 8 brake lever.
22. Tektro caliper brake 79-99 reach.
23. Schwinn brake cable.
24. Virtue quilted saddle & 5/8” clamp.
25. Simpson strong tie structural Tees.
26. ABS pipe component battery tube.
27. Radio Shack 12v battery pack.
28. WOLO 370 Roadrunner horn and button.
29. Specialized rear flasher.
30. Flea market marker lights.
31. Flea market iron wood roadrunner ornament.
32. 20” hollow hub 5/8” axle wheelset.
33. 20” x 2.30” BMX Husky tires and tubes.
34. 26” chrome 12ga heavy duty CB wheel.
35. 26”x 2.50” Sunlite Sandy Beach tire and tube.
36. Red Crown valve caps.
37. 5/16” hook and eye turnbuckles.
38. 12” springs from Home Depot.
39. 3/8” tie rod stock and A-Frame stabilizer rods.
40. Bell 1/8 x 1/2” pitch chain.
41. NOS International warning triangle and reflectors.
42. Broom handle bumper support rods.
43. Murray 44T sprocket and KT 22T cog.
44. Miscellaneous other hardware items, MinWax ebony wood stain, vinegar and WD-40, probably missed something.
EDIT: (Meat Grinder handle and Wald platform pedals)

 

[The Renaissance Man]

45. MazdaFlyer engine.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

45. MazdaFlyer engine.

Good one!
I also forgot the pedals and worst of all, the “starting crank”...Universal Food Chopper handle (pat. 1897).
And as stated by Detroit Bikes, “Built by Hand, Powered by Leg”.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

11,011 views...thanks for following along.

 

[kingfish254]

It's always fun to listing out what all it takes for one of these crazy creations. Cool list of parts.

 

[Brian macumber]

Easy to follow when it's

 

[MazdaFlyer]

It's always fun to listing out what all it takes for one of these crazy creations. Cool list of parts.

Sometimes hard to believe what all goes into bringing one of these build off bikes to fruition.

Easy to follow when it's

Thanks!
We can all use some cool in the heat of summer. Lot of cool in these build threads.

 

[horsefarmer]

A Lot of custom frame and bike builders out there that are recouping their labor costs. The North American Handbuilt Bicycle Show is a good place to see some over the top builders, even a few rat influenced bikes at the last one I went to. Had planned to go to the Dallas one back in March but along came the virus.
The new manufactured high end bikes are surely recouping their labor costs as well.
My previous point relates to the effort put into a bunch of these build off bikes that are never recognized for their value when it comes to the voting. People may look at one picture and make a decision. The value of work and effort tends to get lost in the shuffle.
I realize old bikes are usually worth more in original condition. Old bikes personalized tend to be a losing issue in terms of dollar value at ownership change. And everyone seems to want a bargain. Fair pay for labor is an ongoing issue out there for sure.

I agree about " Fair pay for labor".
As new items get scarce, people with repair skills, and their labor will get more valuable.

 

[horsefarmer]

Went to the one closest, didn’t have anything, no offer to order something. So jumped on eBay found a red one ordered it. Problem solved wrong. Service seems to be upside down everywhere you go.

I had the same experience at the local tractor repair shop. They were "out" of the oil filter I need for my tractor. It's not an odd filter but they made no offer to order one.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

In the process of powering up the running lights. Both of the existing incandescent bulbs work. I’ll look for some LEDs to stretch out battery life.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

The only wheelie you’ll ever see this thing do...on the lift.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Hooked up the running lights in parallel with the horn circuit. Switching allows them to work together or independent of each other. That required another 1/2” hole in the hood.

Both of the bulbs worked so they will do for now.

The wiring is getting messy under the hood, rather like the wiring under my HO train layout.

Not pretty but it works...form follows function in Trike-Tor.

 

[horsefarmer]

Very cool! I don't think that load will run very long with flashlight batteries prob going to need those leds.

 

[handyandy1100]

The only wheelie you’ll ever see this thing do...on the lift.

I saw that first picture and thought you painted the hood black!! What a scary thought!

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[MazdaFlyer]

 

[handyandy1100]

Kinda spooky looking.

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[OddJob]

I title this one, "Coming in Late from the Fields". Backed into the machine shed, leaving the lights on until you get off the tractor and then heading in to the house for a late supper.
The dual lights in front have really added a nice 'tractor touch' to Trike-Tor. And I like the amber.