To be honest, the silver s&p caps have moved all by themselves into the focal point of the build!! Usually, bikes I build have no focal point, but it may end up giving me an edge in the build-off!
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WBO-Fully Sprung Elgin- **Tested/Finished**
- Thread starter SILVERKINGPC
- Start date
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Visualizing the fork in the frame..
This old but unused 1" Tange roller bearing headset will take a bit of ratting to get it to work. Since this fork will tend to splay the bike out when weighted, maybe the roller bearing design will be the way to go!
This old but unused 1" Tange roller bearing headset will take a bit of ratting to get it to work. Since this fork will tend to splay the bike out when weighted, maybe the roller bearing design will be the way to go!
The wheels are a high-mileage set I built up years ago. German hubs and early Japanese UKAI rims. There has to be more than 1000 miles on them as they have been on multiple bikes. I remember ordering the 2.125 HE alloy 26" rims from the old Schwinn shop in SLO, Calif. around 1976. I just tore the rear Sachs 515 hub apart to re-build it and found the bearing cones had some slight pitting. I had some spares so replaced them.
The front hub: I don't recall when or where I got it. I will say that I wish I could find another one. It says "made in Germany" and I believe is a very early Union...................................
So the plan is to de-tension both wheels about 4-5 turns after plastering them with some solvent, and re-tensioning them after a good cleaning with a soft-metal brass brush soaked in mineral spirits. I may attempt to convert them to tubeless, but we'll see......
The front hub: I don't recall when or where I got it. I will say that I wish I could find another one. It says "made in Germany" and I believe is a very early Union...................................
So the plan is to de-tension both wheels about 4-5 turns after plastering them with some solvent, and re-tensioning them after a good cleaning with a soft-metal brass brush soaked in mineral spirits. I may attempt to convert them to tubeless, but we'll see......
I am enjoying the compilation of parts, can't wait to see this one to come to together!
Funkme
𝐰𝐰𝐰.𝐟𝐫𝐮𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐚𝐤𝐞.𝐧𝐮𝐭
The front hub: I don't recall when or where I got it. I will say that I wish I could find another one. It says "made in Germany" and I believe is a very early Union...................................
Those hubs are common on old german oldtimers(fichtel & sachs),you can find them on ebay germany. Trommelbremse
Most speak english and post abroad (use paypal)...
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Sachs-Vorder..._Fahrradteile_Komponenten&hash=item2edc631c95
I am fortunate to have them, and happy to share with everyone..
Very cool wheelset!
Luke.
Luke.
Started fiddling around with the crankset, frame and fork..
Crank-set stuff. I plan to use a high-mileage AS 34 crank with the unusual Schwinn 30's(20's?)
Aerocycle sprocket. A hard-metal AS c drive-side cone & thin washer underneath to hold it tight. This sprocket is not really compatible with the crank, but we'll get it to work. Strange, as both are from the 30's.
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I tried both these cranks in the frame, and unfortunately could not use the "Oakley" -made slimlines because its' drive side cone was so bad.
As you can see, the cone is pretty worn, plus the thread size is weird. I sure liked the way they looked with the big, rusty chain ring. They also had an un-fakeable metal wear patina that shone. The arms had better ground clearance too...
Aerocycle sprocket. A hard-metal AS c drive-side cone & thin washer underneath to hold it tight. This sprocket is not really compatible with the crank, but we'll get it to work. Strange, as both are from the 30's.
I tried both these cranks in the frame, and unfortunately could not use the "Oakley" -made slimlines because its' drive side cone was so bad.
As you can see, the cone is pretty worn, plus the thread size is weird. I sure liked the way they looked with the big, rusty chain ring. They also had an un-fakeable metal wear patina that shone. The arms had better ground clearance too...
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That nut did not want to come apart. The adjusting barrel for the front hub was no friendlier..
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this is looking good!
+1 Looks cool!
After years of picking up frames, forks, cranksets, hubs and other old crank and headset stuff, I was glad to still have a lot of loose change.
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I was really relieved about the non-drive side BB setup. As most know, when you mix and match old cranks and frames, you have to be prepared for failures. When I got some schwinski bearings in the cups and tightened it all down, I was a bit stunned. The cone fit so finely into the cups that it looked and felt computer made. This is a moment that keeps me going. Old metal and tremendous future value.
Another bonus was the clearance frame to leg end. As you can see, I really lucked out. Left threads on the crank were long enough too! And to top it off, the sprocket was dead on straight!
As you can see, I have not had these BB cups out yet. The metal is clean and the bearing races are in sweet shape, so I felt no reason to remove them. We won't need a high-dollar BB facing tool today........
.
I was really relieved about the non-drive side BB setup. As most know, when you mix and match old cranks and frames, you have to be prepared for failures. When I got some schwinski bearings in the cups and tightened it all down, I was a bit stunned. The cone fit so finely into the cups that it looked and felt computer made. This is a moment that keeps me going. Old metal and tremendous future value.
Another bonus was the clearance frame to leg end. As you can see, I really lucked out. Left threads on the crank were long enough too! And to top it off, the sprocket was dead on straight!
As you can see, I have not had these BB cups out yet. The metal is clean and the bearing races are in sweet shape, so I felt no reason to remove them. We won't need a high-dollar BB facing tool today........
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More boring technical issues. The fork to frame interface. I don't want to shorten the fork steer tube if I can avoid it. The following photos show the dilemma I face. I want the handle bar stem to sit tight to the frames' top tube, and if I leave the steer tube long with spacers, I lose that look I want. I will try the spacers 1st before operating on the fork too much.
Here is a look at what I am talking about. If the truss rod top brace lies flat on the headset nut like I want, then I will either have to bend the truss rods radically, or have the rods shortened and the threads redone on the lower ends.
We'll figure it out one way or another..
Here is a look at what I am talking about. If the truss rod top brace lies flat on the headset nut like I want, then I will either have to bend the truss rods radically, or have the rods shortened and the threads redone on the lower ends.
We'll figure it out one way or another..
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It would be cool if you could make another set to fit and save the ones you got for a future project. I have found some good rods of similar size on old riding mower front ends used for tie rods they are threaded on the ends and smooth in the middle of course you probably still have to thread one end after bending. This is just an idea so you could save the original parts if you have to make something anyway. Good luck I think this bike is coming together beautiful.More boring technical issues. The fork to frame interface. I don't want to shorten the fork steer tube if I can avoid it. The following photos show the dilemma I face. I want the handle bar stem to sit tight to the frames' top tube, and if I leave the steer tube long with spacers, I lose that look I want. I will try the spacers 1st before operating on the fork too much.
Here is a look at what I am talking about. If the truss rod top brace lies flat on the headset nut like I want, then I will either have to bend the truss rods radically, or have the rods shortened and the threads redone on the lower ends.
We'll figure it out one way or another..
Just thinking out loud here........ you could make up a different top plate with some tall ears on each side for the truss rods to attach to. Another possibly goofy thought, with this top plate you might be able to use a drop stem and run the handlebars through the truss rods also........ something to think about, or not.
All these ideas really help me do the right thing, and more importantly not do the wrong thing. Here is the plan. Wait for the headset reducers. When installed, they will allow a more appropriate fork/frame connection, but will also add another 1/4" or so stack height. G-Carl suggested I think rightly to get the lower stack another 1" higher which may solve all the problems together. As it now sits mocked up, the bikes' top twin straight bar frame tubes still rake downhill (front) a touch, so raising the head tube won't compromise the level, twin-bar look i'm after.
Thanks for all the comments. Keep em coming..
Thanks for all the comments. Keep em coming..
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Only having your photos to go by...could you put spacer/spacers on the stem under the bottom bearing? It looks like that would bring everything into alignment (though it would cause a gap below). Really like what you doing.
The Renaissance Man
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Seems to me the only way to get the look that you want would require that you cut down the fork and the truss rods. I'm not suggesting that you jump in and do it without trying other less permanent options first though. You might find that you like a taller look.
You've got a great combination of parts... look'n good!
You've got a great combination of parts... look'n good!
