WBO-Fully Sprung Elgin- **Tested/Finished**

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Yep. It's heading that way isn't it? The solution includes not cutting it. I did happen to bend a truss rod around to be able to look at an option to use on another bike or even this one.
 
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SMore parts for you metal heads. These Schwinn pedals are an unmatched pair in fair shape that I put together. Each has its' original mechanical parts and were min.bent, & so I got them really straight with some vise and lever work. You Schwinnmasters are grinning ear to ear. Torrington's and Schwinn pedals forever. When I look at the design of this pedal, it just makes so much sense. Adjustable/rebuild-able.
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XTR better re-size their bearings for the newest years' model!
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Look at that metal! The good ol days..:cry:
 
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Yess that is looking freakin nice! Very cool with the slicks.


Yep. That was the exact look I had in mind 3 yrs. ago when this project was 1st hatched. It is with the original upper truss rods with the short look. In the photo, the rods are sunk into the springs sans the nuts. I will look for another crown/steer part to modify later, but in the meantime, an old truss rod idea..
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I tried a couple headset reducers , but they did not fit. In the mean time, I decided to use an old trick to "set" the upper headset race into the frame with Silicone glue. It sets up hard enough and is remove-able. This gives me side-to-side structure with give, no up and down, and maybe also help to "spring" this fully sprung bike..
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The bottom cup-to-frame was next to center and let the rubber glue set up before installing the rest of the crown/steerer. Notice the frames multiple layers and weep holes..
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I cannot say how many times I screwed and un-screwed the upper headset cup onto the long steer tube when messing with the spacers. I expected this and am glad to be done with it.
Now I move on to more boring technical issues. The crank sprocket interface is a problem that I will have to solve next, and will use the silicone solution as well.
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Re-tensioned and re-centered, then brass brush-cleaned the front wheel. I am glad I used linseed oil on the threads when I built them 38 years ago. It cleaned up nicely..
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Both races and cones were clean, dirt free and happy. The 20 loose bearings are sealed by a 2-piece felt and metal washer sitting over the bearings, then a press-in dust cap over that,
 
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I've been fiddling with some small shift-hardware mods and ideas. I always seem to have too many pulley's that don't fit the frame tube. Just modify it or make one up!
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I also got distracted and bolted on my 47 Monarch Silver King lobdel seat carriage with chrome springs ...it looked altogether too pretty, but unfortunately comes from a complete seat, so...:cry:
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Bummed, I went back to beating the too-short old seat carriage bends out of
the 1st set of rails so it would put the springs at a better angle to the pan..I need to get going on the seat-post and crank/sprocket problem, then I can get it together and roll down the driveway. Tomorrow I will post pics of the matched stem and bars that came from my 30's Shelby modified pelaton punisher.
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/pelaton-punisher-30s-shelby-flyer.83579/

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Here is the cockpit setup. The stem and bar are original from the Shelby Flyer frameset above, and was the negative rise I was looking for. I used a shorter, rustier steer tube nut that I had in the parts boxes..
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The stem follows closely the top tube slope, which was important. The riders eye view above the 24" wide bars........
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Here is the solved sprocket centering problem I had to figure out.
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Getting closer.
 
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I found the original headset that came with the fork. It was in a box in a bag marked Roadmaster springer. I didn't remember I had it. So I happily abandoned the other headset. The cups fit the frame too. Duh...:banghead:. I also worked on getting all the purple paint off of the frameset & finishing the seat. Crazy, losta work ratting a seat..
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This is the alloy front brake lever. Not marked except for the "r". It will be on the "L"-hand side . I may also opt for the old-style long-handled sturmey shifter that fits the bikes' look better. Need to hook up the shifter hardware, place the silver s&p caps carefully in their spot, then roll! I decided to not have fenders, a chain guard, racks, lights, flares, kickstands, bright paint, electronics or any other stuff that could make any noise or gather too much attention to the fully sprung stealth Rat with silver bells.(LTJ-s&p caps). Pics soon! :thumbsup: SKPC
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I sorta jumped the gun LTJ. I want to mention some key items in the drivetrain. Since the chain is new, and the sprocket was crusty, I polished off the flats of the sprocket with emory cloth. The 10mm bolt thru the sprocket keeps the sprocket from spinning backwards on the crank when braking. I also have a correct Ichi sprocket b/o'd. The "bottle cage" holder is an old forged drawer pull. The chaingaurd was originally planned to be used, but decided the Elgin would be stripped clean. A mock-up picture..SKPC
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The Elgin rolled today. Wow, this bike is smooth and quiet. It has suprised me. It's all and more of what I thought it could be. 40lbs of pure sprung Rat Bike. I will post these two pics for now, but I need a bit more time to appreciate what it is and break it in a bit................SKPC.:cool2:
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