(WBO) Pathracer

[Path_Racer]

Welcome to The Pathracer Project build thread for the WBO 2015

My goal for this build off is to make a one-of-a-kind bicycle that is reminiscent of an early 1900s road racing bike. It has to be a design that looks utilitarian so I’m going to avoid as many modern comforts as possible (no cables or disk brakes, no synthetic seats). I plan on taking inspiration from multiple different bicycle manufacturers and riders of the time. Hopefully I will have something done and working by the end of this thread.

 

[Path_Racer]

Here’s what I am starting this winter build with, a 1970s CCM Elan steel lugged frame. It used to be a 3-speed basic roadster styled bicycle, but I plan on changing it to a single speed rear coaster brake pathracer. The reason I picked the CCM Elan is that it has a long wheel base making for a stable, smooth ride. Also, it was the only frame I had. For those unfamiliar with CCM (Canada Cycle & Motor Co. Ltd) they are an old Canadian bicycle manufacturer started in 1899. I have always been a fan of the over built steel bicycle and CCM bikes definitely fit that definition, so I think this should make a suitable pathracer frame. It’s got a dent on the top tube but other than that it’s in OK condition for being left outside for who knows how many years. One nice thing about this bike is that it takes 26 inch wheels, which will make buying tires and tubes far easier than if they were the original 28 inch rims that most path racers were.

The worst part will be finding wheels. Here in Canada they use salt on the roads for the winter and during the spring and early summer the wheels of the bike get soaked in a salt water mix causing corrosion like you wouldn’t believe. I would like a pair of vintage Canadian steel chrome plated wheels but given how hard they are to find not rusted beyond recognition, I don’t have my hopes up.

By the way, please excuse some of my poor quality photos, all of this work has to be done in my basement as its pretty snowy outside this time of year, and I’m taking photos with an old black berry.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Good plan.

 

[deven_science]

Also, it was the only frame I had.

Ha! That's a good reason.

It's a good frame for what you aim to do. Good luck!

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Cool idea, I built a similar bike last WBO,
check out The Difference Engine below.
Modern Schwinn multispeed 700c
converted to a 27" single speed archbar...
Still riding it, cuz it's reliable, quick and dif...
GLWTB and welcome to RatRodBikes!

Carl.

 

[Big Ape]

I like the lugged frames! This is going to be a cool build to watch.

 

[CRASH]

I love the plan! The only thing I am concerned with is the shallow angles of the cruiser frame you're using. Road racers generally have steeper angles for the seat and head tubes. Hopefully that won't make a lot of difference for you in your build or for the final rideability of the bike.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Sounds like a cool plan!

Luke.

 

[Path_Racer]

I love the plan! The only thing I am concerned with is the shallow angles of the cruiser frame you're using. Road racers generally have steeper angles for the seat and head tubes. Hopefully that won't make a lot of difference for you in your build or for the final rideability of the bike.

You are absolutely correct! Slack frames like this are uncomfortable for racing. But there is a unique way to turn relaxed frames into racing frames with a simple little trick they used back in the day. I’ll be showing my plan within the week, stay tuned

 

[Path_Racer]

Today I disassembled the frame and peeled off all the decals using a high temperature heat gun and a paint scraper. They were harder to get off then I thought. All the important parts (like the bearings and bearing races) have been left to soak in mineral spirits for a while to help remove the hard resin like grease; I think the last time this bike was oiled was in the 70s. As you can see in the photos I have starting to sand both the frame and the front forks by hand (I don’t have a power sander so this may take a while). There is rust but it isn’t as bad as I thought it would be which is good. It’s getting really tedious sanding around all the details on the front forks, and I have to be careful to avoid the chrome plated fork decoration. I plan on restoring that to its former glory later.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Pretty sure if you remove the lower bearing cup the chrome fork topper will just slide off.

Luke.

 

[Path_Racer]

While sanding I have also noticed multiple holes in the frame for a water bottle cage, chain guard and other accessories, so I found some old screws that fit the holes perfectly and used some JB weld metal epoxy to glue them in place. I’ll wait overnight for the epoxy to set before I file them down flush with the frame.

 

[Path_Racer]

Waiting for the epoxy to dry gives me time to think about handlebars. I don’t want to just turn a set of roadster handlebars upside-down. I would prefer a set that was purposely built for racing. I’m a big fan of Major Taylor (as seen in the photo) and the handlebars he used would look perfect. A Canadian company called Massy Harris which later was dissolved into CCM, sponsored Major Taylor on multiple occasions when he was racing in Canada and Australia. It would be great if I could find a pair of his trademarked adjustable handlebar stems as well, but considering they normally sell for upwards of $300 I think my bike will have to go without them.

Soma Fabrications does make a convincing replica of his handlebars though, and they come in different widths allowing for a custom fit to the rider. They should also cost considerably less than the real thing. i may order one sometime this weekend.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Is he riding a shaft drive ???

Carl.

 

[Path_Racer]

Is he riding a shaft drive ???

Carl.

You have a sharp eye! It is, if I’m not mistaken I believe the bicycle was made in USA by Sager Gear Co. it’s a really cool design but it never caught on, supposedly because of the weight and it made changing the rear tire/tube more difficult. i did see a modern shaft drive bicycle in a shop once, but i don't know if they still make them. Here is a period diagram of the old drive shaft and gearing if you are interested in a closer look.

 

[CRASH]

Pretty sure if you remove the lower bearing cup the chrome fork topper will just slide off.

Luke.

You're right. PR, if you get a flat head screwdriver and gently work it under that bearing race, eventually you will be able to wiggle it up the tube. Then the crown will just slide right off.

 

[Path_Racer]

I got the fork taken apart as recommended by lukethejoker (thanks for the good advice), I left the chrome to soak in a rust remover fluid, and have the baring race in a jar of mineral spirits.

I waited overnight for the epoxy to set, then, with the help of my father, his Dremel tool and a file (and a few hours of work) the screws are now flush with the frame tubing. Hopefully there will be no visible sign of them once I get a coat of paint on. I’ll be using mineral spirits and then soap and hot water over the entire frame to remove any last bits of oil, dirt and or salt before prepping the frame and fork for painting.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Could go to an auto parts store and get the good filler type primer, many also have 1000 - 3000 grit paper for the final sanding.

Carl.

 

[Path_Racer]

Could go to an auto parts store and get the good filler type primer, many also have 1000 - 3000 grit paper for the final sanding.

Carl.

that's a good idea, i didn't know that filler primers existed. then with a light sanding using fine automotive sand paper before painting, that should help remove any indications of frame damage (aside from the dent). thanks!

 

[us56456712]

Waiting for the epoxy to dry gives me time to think about handlebars. I don’t want to just turn a set of roadster handlebars upside-down. I would prefer a set that was purposely built for racing. I’m a big fan of Major Taylor (as seen in the photo) and the handlebars he used would look perfect. A Canadian company called Massy Harris which later was dissolved into CCM, sponsored Major Taylor on multiple occasions when he was racing in Canada and Australia. It would be great if I could find a pair of his trademarked adjustable handlebar stems as well, but considering they normally sell for upwards of $300 I think my bike will have to go without them.

Soma Fabrications does make a convincing replica of his handlebars though, and they come in different widths allowing for a custom fit to the rider. They should also cost considerably less than the real thing. i may order one sometime this weekend.

Nashbar has a mustache bar in 52 cm or wider in 56 cm. Not dropped but cheap enough ($13). You can also take an old pair of commuter 3 speed type bars and reverse them for a very good mustache look.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175275_-1
Here are the wide Nashbar mustache bars painted black if you are wondering what they look like. They are wide, but I was going for the funky look as I figured that would look old fashioned.