Weinmann 810 adjustment on a '67 Schwinn Collegiate

[Mootree]

I've been fixing this bike up for a friend and I'm finally down to small adjustments. I actually had a donor bike that I basically swapped everything over from after a good cleaning. Surprisingly, I got the derailleur set up and working but these damn brakes have me stumped. They are centered fine but I just can't get them to grab enough. They'll stop the wheel from spinning just fine when upside down but with some weight on the bike, there isn't enough bite to get it stopped. How do I get the pad to have more friction on the wheel? Seems silly but I pull the cable, loosen the cable, tighten the cable, and on and on but still haven't figured it out. I know these aren't modern brakes and wont act like them but I think they should still perform for a cruise night. Any help would be appreciated!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Wildcat]

Change out the pads for newer pads that are better material. I've also used the longer pads to get more stopping power. Those side pull brakes never were the best, especially on the rear brake on a women's bike, too much play in the cable. Also, don't adjust them to grab at the very end of the handle travel, you have more squeezing power a little more toward the handle grip. Also, clean the rims well, someone may have waxed them or shined them up with something.

 

[malcolmlauder]

Are they steel wheels? I swapped steel to aluminium wheels and the brakes were useless! Make sure the pads are correct for the type of wheel.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

 

[Mootree]

They are the original wheels, I did polish them up, thought about that, maybe I'll lightly scuff the surface a bit. Also the original pads but I just found a 71 Cotton Picker that had been hanging in a barn for 30 years and those pads still have great stopping power so I didn't think it was a pad issue. I could be wrong though, may just swap them out to be safe.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Wildcat]

On the chrome wheels, the polish probably is the reason. I would go over the part of the rims the pads contact with alcohol so they will be clean and still shine. The pads may have a layer of the polish on them too.

 

[Mootree]

Well, I got it as close as I could but I know that you can really get these outta wack if you don't know what you are doing. I told her to drop it by a bike shop and have them do the final adjustment. She was totally cool with that. This was in a barn for about 40 years and was pretty rough. It was only one of two things she has left from her childhood. I got it back in working order and polished up, 95% done and she is extremely excited.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Brunson67]

I've done a few sets of old caliper brakes and have got great results. I did my daughters 1975 Breeze, and two Cruisers. First, use a new modern brake cable, the best is the oddessey slick cable, huge advancements in cable technology, then switch to modern brake pads, I've used both Kool Stop Eagle 2's (threaded shaft) and Oddessey Slim by fours. Make sure to adjust brake pads to have toe. New style pads have the ability to have adjustment because of the half round washers used. The Oddesseys have better adjustment and more surface area. First picture has Oddyesseys, second pic has Kool Stops.

 

[Brunson67]

Also, lightly scuff the brake pad with some sandpaper, breaks the gloss and sids in stopping.

 

[Bicycle808]

Salmon Kool Stops help a lot... A lot of other good advice on here, too. Steel rims are pretty bad for rim brakes but wheels with contaminated breaking surfaces are the WORST. And vintage pads with hard and glazed rubber are basically useless.