Wet sanding and clear coating old factory paint

[donhaller]

I really like the paint and scheme from my original 1948 Columbia and its in half decent condition. However, I'd like to wet sand and clear coat it to make it better and preserve it that much longer. Has anyone done this before and if so, what type of clear coat paint can be used over the factory paint?

 

[honestherman]

If I were doing that to my own bike. I would use Laquer, semi flat or flat clear. If you use Semi gloss or gloss. It will not look original. It will look newer. I have had Semi Gloss paint that still looked very glossy

 

[deven_science]

If I have a bike with old paint that I wish to preserve, I don't use clear paint, I coat it with boiled linseed oil. Once it's dry, I've got a bike that has stayed exactly the same two years after I coated it.

 

[sensor]

Grey scuff pad with some 3m prep&blend(or whatever brand you choose). Just make sure you test whatever clear you are using on a small discreet spot first, since some clears will react with the original paint.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

I would suggest wet-sanding it with Linseed oil. This works for old paint on bikes and certainly for old oil-finished furniture. 3m now has even better wet-sanding paper in vibrant color!! Be sure to stick with 220(be careful) and finer grades, nothing rougher.

 

[Henry Sanchez]

I'd get a grey scuff pad made for automotive paint or if you want to wet sand it use 800-1200. If you want it to look dull you can add a flattener to the clear. Not sure how exact it will look if you're intending on keeping the paint with a weathered look. Be sure to clean the bike thoroughly and use grease and wax remover before clearing. It also might react to lacquer paint as those paints will still have some solvents in them. You can check with a white towel and thinner in a discreet spot. if it rubs off it's either lacquer thinner, single stage, or the clear is weathered. A single stage is fine to clear over but the other two can cause issues. If it doesn't mark up your towel than it's a good chance that will be your barrier coat so you won't have problems. Sand thoroughly but gentle enough to not cut thru.

 

[horsefarmer]

I had pretty good luck (made 2015 RRB calendar ) cleaning my '56 Hawthorne by washing it, applying WD40 and wiping down, using rubbing compound on stubborn spots, using care not to get too aggressive. When I was happy with it, I washed it again and then applied "ICE" spray on Automotive wax. "ICE" wax is supposed to dry clear not white, so scratches don't stand out.

 

[donhaller]

I have decided to leave the original paint. I cleaned it up with some automotive paint polish and some wax. It looks pretty decent. I will be detailing the components but not doing any re-chroming or anything at this point.

Although I did want to replace the wheels as these have been spray painted silver by someone in the past that just painted over the rust and oversprayed the spokes and all.

Not sure how to fix that. I thought about taking all the spokes out, wire wheeling the rims and polishing them, but I think they'll just rust up again really bad

You say its original paint and decent condition. Personally I would do what Devinscience says and use boiled linseed oil as a top coat. It is easily removable down the road and your bike will still be technically original from a collector's view point.
Spraying actual clear paint over the original paint may not be viewed as an improvement by a potential buyer in the future!