What Clear coat to use with new paint job?
- Thread starter MaX-D
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
I had 68 Bonneville love that bike
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,319
- Reaction score
- 9,510
The 68 was the last good vintage one in my opinion. I bought a new 66 Bonniville. I traded it in on a 67 TR6C. I got the enduro bug. I still have the 67 but the 66 bonniville was the best looking vintage Bonnie. I wish I had it still. It would do a 3 foot wheelie up jump when you shifted into second and a few inches off the ground shifting into third. It would easily go 85 in second with two people on board. I could only get it to what the advertised max speed of 120 was by going down a good hill. The front end got light and danced around.
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,319
- Reaction score
- 9,510
My buddy has one for 25 years moldering in his basement. I tried to buy it about 15 years ago, but he wants to hang on to it.
(some) Guitar guys like the way a nitro finsh starts to crack and check as the years go on. It's a feature for them...
Same type if not same brand of clear as the base. Do a test shot before comitting as the clear can wrinkle/lift the base coat and/or dissolve the decals.
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,319
- Reaction score
- 9,510
Cool, that would look nice.
I like the ceramic paints.
If using engine paint, I use clear engine paint of the same brand.
If using wheel paint I use clear wheel paint of the same brand.
That way I just have to follow curing times on the can between coats. Most have gloss, or satin or flat, depending on your preference.
Many times I'll put multiple coats on, mask and paint the darts, add any rustification effects and paint the clear all in one sitting. Just need to get them all in within that 2 or 3 hour window.
The only exception is if I use the metalcast paints which seems to melt a lot of other paints. Very careful with adding that.
If using engine paint, I use clear engine paint of the same brand.
If using wheel paint I use clear wheel paint of the same brand.
That way I just have to follow curing times on the can between coats. Most have gloss, or satin or flat, depending on your preference.
Many times I'll put multiple coats on, mask and paint the darts, add any rustification effects and paint the clear all in one sitting. Just need to get them all in within that 2 or 3 hour window.
The only exception is if I use the metalcast paints which seems to melt a lot of other paints. Very careful with adding that.
