What do you really think about another Breezer 1 clone build

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
OK I will check the 6 speed cluster and let you know. I do have a frame I can cut the posts off of for the brakes.
I will check the hubs as well.
Rob
 
OK I will check the 6 speed cluster and let you know. I do have a frame I can cut the posts off of for the brakes.
I will check the hubs as well.
Rob
That will really help. It’s a little warmer today, 14F at 9AM and at noon 20F. I’m going to start taking the donors apart while it’s warm.
 
Not much warmer here in Central Illinois, The Bunghole State.
Rob
 
We got around 32 here, I had my Samurai running poorly. After all afternoon trying to get it to run at under 2000 rpm, I found out the carb adapter plates had loosened up just enough to have a nasty vacuum leak.
Runs great Now! I can drive to town tomorrow man.
 
We got around 32 here, I had my Samurai running poorly. After all afternoon trying to get it to run at under 2000 rpm, I found out the carb adapter plates had loosened up just enough to have a nasty vacuum leak.
Runs great Now! I can drive to town tomorrow man.
There was a convertible pickup for sale out here 4 years ago. The body was good, red paint badly faded, top gone, plywood between cab and bed. It was gone in 3 days. What a nice machine. It would have been good for the side by side trails. No dust in the cab.
 
I have a second Samurai I am building for a multi purpose, go anywhere on/off road vehicle. I will send a couple photos later.

It has a VW 1.6 Diesel from a 1984 Rabbit with a Brazil made VW Fox Header and Turbo intake, Geo Tracker 5 speed and a Samurai Twin Stick Rock Crawler low transfer case. I am using an aftermarket Land Rover 2.4TD aluminum radiator.

All I am using from the original 1987 Samurai is the frame, body, axles and a modified transfer case. I have a 4.67 locker in the rear and a 4.67 posi in the front, I widened the tracking by 8" and stretched the wheelbase by 6"-7".

All new interior with Autometer Gages, plastic racing buckets and the floors will be covered with rubber Stall Mat cut to fit.
I used an aftermarket GM style steering column and way more than you probably want to read about.

I bought everything really right from mostly eBay, and some stuff direct from a couple places and a couple friends, still I almost have a stroke thinking about what I have spent in the last 1.5 years of collecting parts.
Talk later man, time to feed the homeless kitties.
Rob
 
I have a second Samurai I am building for a multi purpose, go anywhere on/off road vehicle. I will send a couple photos later.

It has a VW 1.6 Diesel from a 1984 Rabbit with a Brazil made VW Fox Header and Turbo intake, Geo Tracker 5 speed and a Samurai Twin Stick Rock Crawler low transfer case. I am using an aftermarket Land Rover 2.4TD aluminum radiator.

All I am using from the original 1987 Samurai is the frame, body, axles and a modified transfer case. I have a 4.67 locker in the rear and a 4.67 posi in the front, I widened the tracking by 8" and stretched the wheelbase by 6"-7".

All new interior with Autometer Gages, plastic racing buckets and the floors will be covered with rubber Stall Mat cut to fit.
I used an aftermarket GM style steering column and way more than you probably want to read about.

I bought everything really right from mostly eBay, and some stuff direct from a couple places and a couple friends, still I almost have a stroke thinking about what I have spent in the last 1.5 years of collecting parts.
Talk later man, time to feed the homeless kitties.
Rob
And here I thought all you could do to them was instal a lift kit. I had no idea.
 
I have seen insane Samurais with Toyota axles and transmission/ transfer cases with the Samurai transfer case as a secondary drive that was so low geared you could walk along side of it at idle and steer from the outside.

Guys with more money than me are buying them up because they heard you could fix them up cheap (at the time) and mud trail them anywhere.

Now parts cost more, but there are a lot of items that were not available back when I bought my first one back in 2004.

I am rewiring the entire vehicle, it has a dry cell deep cycle for the winches, all new LED switches, custom headlights, taillights and the grille from the original Samurai vehicles to import into the USA.

I stretched the frame, went to manual brakes, and put 4 piston Brembo calipers on 13" rotors in front and 2 piston Brembo calipers on 12"rotors on the rear.

A couple photos, ignore the piles inside it please. Couldn't do anything all winter but throw parts inside it for spring. I plan to be driving it by summer, I have the old beater one sold.
20220227_080957.jpg
20220227_080933.jpg
20220227_080907.jpg

20220227_081013.jpg

20220227_081023.jpg

20220227_081041.jpg
20220227_081119.jpg
20220227_081136.jpg

20220227_081144.jpg

Screenshot_20220227-084216_Photos.jpg
Screenshot_20220227-084250_Photos.jpg
Screenshot_20220227-084258_Photos.jpg

This is a photo of one of the more insane builds I have seen.
Screenshot_20220227-085032_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
I have seen insane Samurais with Toyota axles and transmission/ transfer cases with the Samurai transfer case as a secondary drive that was so low geared you could walk along side of it at idle and steer from the outside.

Guys with more money than me are buying them up because they heard you could fix them up cheap (at the time) and mud trail them anywhere.

Now parts cost more, but there are a lot of items that were not available back when I bought my first one back in 2004.

I am rewiring the entire vehicle, it has a dry cell deep cycle for the winches, all new LED switches, custom headlights, taillights and the grille from the original Samurai vehicles to import into the USA.

I stretched the frame, went to manual brakes, and put 4 piston Brembo calipers on 13" rotors in front and 2 piston Brembo calipers on 12"rotors on the rear.

A couple photos, ignore the piles inside it please. Couldn't do anything all winter but throw parts inside it for spring. I plan to be driving it by summer, I have the old beater one sold.
View attachment 186807View attachment 186808View attachment 186809
View attachment 186814
View attachment 186810
View attachment 186811View attachment 186812View attachment 186813
View attachment 186815
View attachment 186822View attachment 186823View attachment 186824
This is a photo of one of the more insane builds I have seen.
View attachment 186825
ho ya koweya, as we say in the local dialect.
 
Last edited:
Lots of thinking, then planning. I’m going to tack the laterals to the head tube, then use #6 nuts and bolts at the drops/laterals. This way I can loosen them to work on converting the drops to fork ends (rear facing drops). The fork is fitted without cups, just to see if the fork tube is long enough.
9BB317DE-B044-4EE5-92A6-E35D0C23B2A1.jpeg

It‘s been much colder this winter, as far as sustainable constant cold. There has been no thaw. Last winter at our house it got to -20F one night, this year -14F was the coldest. So for two years the low has been not bad as it usually gets colder. Unfortunately last winter the -20F made it to Texas, but for us that’s normal. This cold, with no break, has slowed my progress. It’s better when it’s warmer as, in the cold, you do a hurry up half asked job just to get out of the shop. By the time you get your 10 degree tools assembled it’s time to go inside to warm up. If you keep working just to finish something you started, then it ends out half asked.

Lake Superior lake effect snow storm over the open waters on Friday afternoon.
C2079B8A-D15A-4D5C-9EF5-21FECFCB7C30.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I didn’t get this one either. I did some calculations and I need a 14 x 28 six speed. I have a 14 x 28 five speed that’s almost new so that should work without skipping. I could use that in a pinch.
I have a 14x28 6 speed. I am going to clean it up and check it tomorrow to be sure it is a good one.
Rob
 
I have a 14x28 6 speed. I am going to clean it up and check it tomorrow to be sure it is a good one.
Rob
I’m getting delayed notices of alerts. It’s been taking two or 3 days to get them. So far the administrator web person has no clue what’s up. I get nothing and then a bunch, then it stops working again. I hope I’m getting all of them.
 
It’s 20F now but was +1 at 8AM. It probably was colder last night. Anyway, since 20 is pretty warm I decided to remove a thread on cassette so I can lace a new hub to the rim I want to use for this build. I’ve been removing thread on cassettes since the 1970s and I’ve never broken a tool until today. Yeah, I’ve worn plenty of the nubs away but never cracked one in two, until today. I shoveled off my work bench to find the vice and to allow the wheel to turn. The tools from the metal tool box we’re hand hurting cold and I think they hadn’t warm up yet. The tools were probably-10F. So, the cassette is still there. I’m taking it to the LBS as buying another tool world cost as much as the removal fee and will save me the shoveling aggravation. I’m getting too old to try anything more than once, it’s better to throw money at the problem because fussing with it will just waste valuable seconds of my remaining life. When your old, you get up and know if the day will be so so or adequate.
 
Last edited:
I had to cold spread the fork to 100mm. The fork drops were almost 2mm too small for the new hub axles. File one one side only, pressure between the fork legs and flip the file with each 100 strokes. Go slow, the metal is hard. A quarter round takes the step out at the bottom of the slot that results from about 2mm of widening. I’m not a fan of flat filing the axles, but that sure is faster.
EF31A5C7-8EEF-4FA6-9D9C-0F2298765DB5.jpeg
E789E8B2-976A-483D-AA79-ABAE6BCE362B.jpeg
 
I’m trying to make the brace that goes between the laterals and around the seat tube. My problem is that I don’t remember how I made the first one. I used something to open up the tube and a steel bar mandrel to round the front. I can’t open it up far enough. I’ve been using a plastic hammer to drive it over three successively larger pipes but now I’m out of larger pipes. Dang, I wish I recalled what I did. Maybe I just pried and bent it open and hammered out the dents and wobbles on some kind of mandrel? I know I hammered on my vice and small anvil. It’s got to be in one piece so that the hole saw can be used, then it’s cut to go around the seat tube.
image.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oooohhhh, the seller says it's "rare"! I wonder if it's "below blue book" too! Sometimes CL sellers crack me up.

Yooper, if you need a mixte frame for parts I have a few to choose from and will donate one to your cause.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top