What is the best coaster brake, your opinions?

[wvginseng]

I have always liked bendix for a long time. I am always interested in testing one coaster brake against another to find out which one has the least resistance when coasting and peddaling {how easy it is to turn sprocket with hub in your hand}. With good braking.
One reason I always liked Bendix was because it was so easy to put together, something to add I guess. Bendix always had excellent braking. I have tried out shimano and did not like it, Had a New Departure skip tooth, I believe it was a model D, did not think it coasted as free as the Bendix did. Now I have this Komet Super that had the least resistance when coasting and peddaling when cleaned and dry compared to Bendix under same conditions. So far the braking is not as good though on the Komet Super.
I have done some experimenting on Bendix Red Band as it seems to be almost as good as Komet Super on coasting resistance but not peddaling resistance. So I took the spring that goes around the two piece driver/clutch and spread it open so it was not so tight and now it is very close of having same peddaling resistance as the Komet Super.
What is your opinions and experience on the best coaster brakes.

 

[user 135]

Here is a good discussions.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.ph ... -Brake-Hub
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.ph ... ster-Brake
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.ph ... ake-(jimv!!)

Lots of people like the new Velosteel, if you can get your hands on one. They are based off your F&S Hub.

 

[detroiter60]

Bendix RedBand 2 speed,I like the low gear and the disk brakes rock.The YellowBand is a close second

 

[Wildcat]

Agreed on the Bendix 2 speeds for braking. My yellow band has the best brakes I've got. The brakes are operated off the low gear, giving more leverage.

 

[wvginseng]

never cared for 2 and 3 speed coaster brakes

 

[clamdigger]

Bendix Automatic Red Band 2 speed kickback with internal disc brakes.

 

[subadrew]

for one speeds, I really like ND Model 3's. Very easy to clean as well. Might just be because I tend to rebuild those the most and take time to scuff the discs.

I assume you're talking only older hubs... ?

If not, I have NO idea what hub is on my grocery getter Kustom Kruiser, but I can easily skid to a stop with 50lbs of groceries in the basket and I've never had to do a full rebuild on the hub (I'd guess ~2000 miles, and many in muddy/snowy conditions). I can check the brand when I get home.


My least favorite hub for reliability and stop dependency is the bendix 76. utter crap, but I still ride one almost daily cause it's laced to some HD wheels that complete the look of my hornet. I've almost gotten hit by cars twice cause I couldn't stop in time when they turn in front of me. stupid really.

 

[Bicycle808]

My opinion is that F&S stuff hands-down coasts the best; this extends to the new Velosteel stuff from the Czech Republic. Braking isn't so good, though.

I've heard that, BITD, Morrows were the finest for braking performance, but I can't say for sure, as I've yet to try one. I've used Shimano cb-e110s a bunch, and they brake nice but drag a lot. New model KT stuff tends to brake well, have a ton of drag, and are pretty squirrelly to rebuild (getting the preload right is pretty finicky.)

As far as vintage stuff, I feel like the nature of used and aged stuff makes for inconsistent performance. That being said, they made some pretty cool c/b hubs back then. I think there was more pride taken back then, but also, c/b's were high-end stuff back then. Now, they've been relegated to crap-status. A shame, really.

 

[Spincycle]

I must be going too slow. I've got four bikes with Shimano CB110's and I've always been able to lock them up. Never had any issues. Even after rebuilding them myself. They are easy to overhaul. Parts are available. I've heard the Velosteel is the best quality though.

 

[Bicycle808]

I must be going too slow. I've got four bikes with Shimano CB110's and I've always been able to lock them up. Never had any issues. Even after rebuilding them myself. They are easy to overhaul. Parts are available. I've heard the Velosteel is the best quality though.

I have cb-e110 hubs on 2 different bikes, and I routinely lock'em up and skid. In fact, I gotta take some care not to, in order to save rubber. But, the drag is waaaaaaaay noticeable, especially compared to my Velosteel.

OTOH, while the Velosteel does coast very well, the brake is pretty weak. I have to try pretty hard to skid out with that one; I'm about to crack itopen again and monkey around with the brake discs. Also, I had a recurring issue with it "freewheeling" without engaging; repacking it with less & lighter grease helped that....

So, yeah, the velosteel has a lot going for it, and is much better finished than the Shimano stuff, but I'd go Shimano over Velosteel for pur braking power...

 

[B607]

Bendix RB-2 single speed. Gary

 

[thrdrl]

Best braking I've ever felt was on a Western Flyer hub which I believe was made by Musselman.

 

[mikeeebikey]

My opinion is that F&S stuff hands-down coasts the best; this extends to the new Velosteel stuff from the Czech Republic. Braking isn't so good, though.

I've heard that, BITD, Morrows were the finest for braking performance, but I can't say for sure, as I've yet to try one. I've used Shimano cb-e110s a bunch, and they brake nice but drag a lot. New model KT stuff tends to brake well, have a ton of drag, and are pretty squirrelly to rebuild (getting the preload right is pretty finicky.)

As far as vintage stuff, I feel like the nature of used and aged stuff makes for inconsistent performance. That being said, they made some pretty cool c/b hubs back then. I think there was more pride taken back then, but also, c/b's were high-end stuff back then. Now, they've been relegated to crap-status. A shame, really.

Your brake pads are worn out. I would check the hub body for wear as well.
I cannot call out a best hub but the worst were the hubs Huffy used in the 80s!

 

[Bicycle808]

Your brake pads are worn out. I would check the hub body for wear as well.
I cannot call out a best hub but the worst were the hubs Huffy used in the 80s!

I'd be surprised f the pads are worn out; i might have a little over 1000 miles on the hub. Plus, it suffered from weak brakes from the very first mile. It is possible that the pads have glazed a bit from sitting on shelves a few years before I got around to lacing it into a hub. I'm going to reinspect and try to deglaze them if possible.

If the hub shell's got noticeable wear, I'm tossing the thing in the trash. However, it looked pristine when I pulled it apart a month or so back. I think that the VElosteel design lends itself to fairly weak braking, but I'm hoping to improve it by scuffing up the discs.

 

[dougfisk]

I haven't tried them all yet. But of the ones I have tried - "inconsistent" is the conclusion. I have found ND with both weak and strong brakes, Comet with weak and strong brakes, Bendix strong only so far, Musselman strong only so far, Perry weak only so far.

I think the message here is that there may be as much variability amongst hubs of the same brand as there is between hubs of different brands with regard to braking power. I do believe that hubs with retracting shoes coast better - Morrow, Musselman, Higgins, Comet, Perry.

 

[outskirtscustoms]

I like my bendix hubs but as long as it is greased and adjusted properly any hub will work for me.

 

[wvginseng]

If your bendix coaster brake is not braking well then it needs overhauled. I have never had problems braking with any bendix model, red band all the way up to bendix 86.

 

[wvginseng]

The komet super had less resistance than bendix before greasing but after greasing and laced into wheel they seem to be about the same. I can not tell any difference when riding. I have some more tests to do that should tell the difference. So far the bendix red band seem to be the best of the bendix coasters for least resistance. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[deorman]

One that someone else didn't already destroy. :mrgreen: The old plate-clutch type are pretty durable, but they need regular oiling to maintain good braking, and tend to drag a little while coasting. The Bendix and Asian rim "2-shoe" types are both easier to maintain, and easier to destroy in my experience, with the old fancy knurled barrel-shaped Shimano being my vote for possibly the weakest. With good grease, proper bearing adjustment, and a little finesse on the rider's part, that dirty old Sears Bendix '76 or Hystop from X-Mart will work fine for most applications not involving extreme changes in speed or altitude involving the rear brake. ....Also not involving dudes over 300 lbs. U.S..

Your results may vary. Not responsible for any hub-related explosions or injuries sustained thereby. :mrgreen:

 

[Wildcat]

When I've had worn out one speeds with poor brakes, I would reach under the other pedal with the top of my free foot and pull up to get more braking power. Try it, it really helps.