WINONA RIDER: finished

[user 35233]

I'm feelin the "kitchen sink", and the challenge you have to make it fit. Aside from somewhere under the seat where you already have it, and the angles work, I keep gravitating toward a cycle-like footplate, though maybe at an angle meeting the frame since it's a bit of a lay-back. I just can't see how it would fit right-side up without digging into it and possible ruining it. I hope you get it on there somewhere but you're probably right about stopping at "everything".
Fun lamp too. Nicely designed.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Loving this paint work and parts. Great fun build.

Thanks man! My demise, last BO, was trying to get paint on and dried at the end (a lot of rain in the final weeks). I wanted to start with paint this time so I could get all the details in and still finish.

 

[BobbyStillz]

I'm feelin the "kitchen sink", and the challenge you have to make it fit. Aside from somewhere under the seat where you already have it, and the angles work, I keep gravitating toward a cycle-like footplate, though maybe at an angle meeting the frame since it's a bit of a lay-back. I just can't see how it would fit right-side up without digging into it and possible ruining it. I hope you get it on there somewhere but you're probably right about stopping at "everything".
Fun lamp too. Nicely designed.

Exactly. If it didn't already have a wrap-around chainguard, and I wasn't running a hubcap, and I was only doing one color...it would probably work.

There's just going to be a lot going on, so I need to balance that without it looking so 'busy' that you don't appreciate the details. I have a couple more ideas for it, but can't really test it until the bike is fully together. One version requires fabrication, so time will be a factor as well.

 

[BobbyStillz]

New bracket came in! 90° on this one vs the 45° on the original. We are sooooo close.

The bolt matches up with the hole, but the angle of the spring cage is still a little off so the bolt won't screw in.

Still going to have to modify the fork in some way, but hopefully it will be less drastic than crimping and drilling the legs.

 

[user 35233]

The bolt matches up with the hole, but the angle of the spring cage is still a little off so the bolt won't screw in.
Still going to have to modify the fork in some way, but hopefully it will be less drastic than crimping and drilling the legs.

If I were only trying to gain a millimeter or two I might try to lose height in the bottom cup by filing it, switching it or losing it if need be. If filing one side weren't enough I'd prolly try filing a bit off the bottom side of the thick mount you're trying to line up. Possibly the bearing cap? All guesses but seems reasonable.

 

[user 35233]

Been mulling my suggestion over because I hadn't thought through filing the caps. What if you took some off the frame itself?

 

[Wildcat]

It's a good day to get back at it!

Kicking it off with some shop tunes. (scored this reel-to-reel last weekend)

View attachment 236766

View attachment 236767

That's like the one we had when I was a kid, it says tapecorder, not recorder.
My folks set it up with the cover on while it was recording, to hear what we kids were talking about while they were gone. I spotted the little red light that let me know it was recording, so we staged a monkey attack. Pots and pans crashing, sisters screaming for help and a lot of monkey noises! The folks never said a word about it.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Been mulling my suggestion over because I hadn't thought through filing the caps. What if you took some off the frame itself?

The height is right, but the angle is off. I need like a 1/4"-1/2" extension on the top end of the leg arms and trusses, or a degree of bend upward on the spring cage. Because of the bend of the legs, vertical differences will mess up the alignment. If I go with the original bracket, I have to drill new mounting holes lower down on the legs. That requires crimping the pipe and drilling, but in order to do that symmetrically, I would need a jig and drill press (which I don't have), then a vice that will put even pressure to crimp without folding the pipe...

I could probably mount the legs up top and let the legs swing independently. Then I could use the steertube mount to line up the drill bit to get even holes, but the crimping is more difficult, unless I can get a longer axle bolt to avoid crimping. However, then I would still have to fill the old holes or the fork would be compromised structurally.

All that to say, drilling the fork is not really an option, so I just need to change the angle of the mounting bolt which will probably require bending the spring cage a smidge.

 

[Captain Awesome]

I just need to change the angle of the mounting bolt which will probably require bending the spring cage a smidge.

Sounds like the path of least resistance

 

[user 35233]

The height is right, but the angle is off. I need like a 1/4"-1/2" extension on the top end of the leg arms and trusses, or a degree of bend upward on the spring cage. Because of the bend of the legs, vertical differences will mess up the alignment. If I go with the original bracket, I have to drill new mounting holes lower down on the legs. That requires crimping the pipe and drilling, but in order to do that symmetrically, I would need a jig and drill press (which I don't have), then a vice that will put even pressure to crimp without folding the pipe...

I could probably mount the legs up top and let the legs swing independently. Then I could use the steertube mount to line up the drill bit to get even holes, but the crimping is more difficult, unless I can get a longer axle bolt to avoid crimping. However, then I would still have to fill the old holes or the fork would be compromised structurally.

All that to say, drilling the fork is not really an option, so I just need to change the angle of the mounting bolt which will probably require bending the spring cage a smidge.

I see. I guess I don't understand springer forks (yet). Looked like the spring part swiveled at the bolts, before tightening, and all you needed was room in the head to line it up.

 

[BobbyStillz]

I see. I guess I don't understand springer forks (yet). Looked like the spring part swiveled at the bolts, before tightening, and all you needed was room in the head to line it up.

Here's the angle of the bolt currently.

Here's where it needs to be to screw into the bracket.

If I pivot the fork or the cage (as-is) to level the mounting bolt, then the alignment drops below the bracket (see green line).

The vertical is great here-to-here.

The discrepancy is here-to-here.

I wish I knew how to machine parts, because then I would just make a modified spring cage. As I don't possess those skills as of yet, I have to bend the cage to raise the head of the bolt a few degrees to match the level of threaded end (as it sits).

 

[user 35233]

So if you shave the necessary space off the top of the frame it wouldn't lower your mount, or bottom, raise your fork?

 

[BobbyStillz]

CAD (cardboard aided design) won't be strong enough for mockup, so I may have to throw it into SAD (sheetmetal aided design).

 

[user 35233]

I'm sure I'm missing something here and I'd like to learn. Does the spring cage not pivot here?

 

[BobbyStillz]

So if you shave the necessary space off the top of the frame it wouldn't lower your mount, or bottom, raise your fork?View attachment 238638

The distance wouldn't change the angle of the bolt. The bolt needs to be level, which it is not (at any height). There's a shoulder on the cage, so it won't pivot past the angle it's at. If I grind off the shoulder, I lose some rigidity of the fork. However, grinding off the shoulder, and cutting a bit off the bottom of the headtube might work. It would have to be precise, though, because once I do that, I lose a lot of options. The headtube becomes too short for the current steertube, yet remains too long for the original steertube.

I love geometry, but I'm not an engineer. Most of my fabrication, I'm wingin' it like McGuyver... sometimes we fly into the sunset in a helicopter made of rebar and a shop fan, other times we implode in the homemade submarine (too soon?).

I'm sure I'm missing something here and I'd like to learn. Does the spring cage not pivot here?

View attachment 238640

It has a shoulder, so no. If I grind off the shoulder it will pivot, but then it will pivot to this level below the bracket. From there, see my previous post. (Sorry, on my phone, so I'm typing mad slow at the moment lol).

 

[user 35233]

Now I get it. Thank you for helping me understand. That is tricky. I'd just put a spacer on top for the steerer sitchy but again, i probably don't get it yet.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Maybe I should do a video... my pics don't really translate the positioning. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[user 35233]

Would bending the mount under the cup work?

 

[user 35233]

Maybe I should do a video... my pics don't really translate the positioning. Sorry for the confusion.

Naw, not at all. I've just never had a springer and I need to graduate.

 

[user 35233]

..and maybe MacGuyvering an angle wedge off the bottom?