Hey Chainsaw,
Sorry to hear about your health. I must admit that I have been at an advantage given that it is summer here at the moment, albeit it a cold, wet and windy one. I did notice your autorama bike elsewhere on this site, and took a squiz at fbn. All good stuff.
Sinner4,
Looking forward to seeing your bike when you're done.
Outlaw,
I think you'll need to gear the rear wheel down, by how much depends upon your strength and how many hills you intend to go up.
If I understand you correctly putting in a jack shaft as you describe it, would increase the gear ratio when you want to decrease it.
I recommend that you use standard 15 or 18 speed derailer gear setup such that the lowest gear has a 1:1 gear ratio, or maybe something smaller if you want to go up some hills. I think that kind of gearing is pretty easy to get. I had a look in my shed and found a triple chainring with the smallest chain ring having the same number of teeth as the largest rear sprocket that I had. I also found a rear sprocket that was larger than my smallest chain ring. Personally I don't own a bike without gears and don't want to.
If you want to put in a jack shaft, I recommend that you have the same number of teeth on both sides, which can be done by cutting the cranks off two sets of 3 piece cranks, and using a standard bottom bracket that fits three piece cranks. You then put your cranks with the pedals attached in your frame back to front. I've seen this done on planty of exercise bikes, when I go scrounging. You could also use a combination of different sized chain rings to gear it down further. I recommend that you get friction based gear levers, rather than indexed ones. That'll make adjusting the gears real easy, given that you'd be doing something non-standard.
Your other alternative is a small motor.
If you want to get all technical, the power coming out of your bike is defined by the following equation.
power = torque x rotational_velocity.
where
Torque = force x distance
Where distance is the distance over which the force is being levered, which in this case is the diameter of your wheel. The force = total_weight * G * coeficient_of_friction.
The human body, like all machines, has a maximum power output, as well as a maxmimum speed and torque, which is why gears help us increase the power output when we are operating at close to maximum speed, although in your case you're more likely to run out of torque rather than speed if you used a fixed speed setup with a standard ratio.
So as a rule of thumb if you double the combined weight of you and your bike, then you want to half the gear ratio, assuming that your gear ratio was right to start with.
For example a 48 chain ring and 16 rear tooth gives you a gear ratio of 48/16 = 3, so one turn of the cranks turns the wheel 3 times. In this case the torque is decreased by a third and the rotational velocity is tripled. If you had a 48 tooth chain ring going to a 16 tooth sprocket attached to a 48 tooth chain ring via a jack shaft attached to a 16 tooth sprocket you'd get a gear ration of
(48/16)x(48/16) =9, which would mean that you have to exert 9 times the force on the pedals to get it going compared to a setup with a 1:1 ratio.
My apologies for the physics lesson.