Looks "fancy smancy" to me. 
Workman frame build possibilty... Now "Workman RS"! All but Fini!
- Thread starter Mike G
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Ah, but it is "fancy smancy"... What do you think the "RS" stands for? "Really Smancy"!Looks "fancy smancy" to me.
Quick update...
Just obtained a black profile Imperial (That's gonna have to be close enough Luke). On that same region, I've got a pair of Orig8 pedal with the blue anodized cage in route, which I'm thinking should look pretty cool. All the required Nexus and SA components are in route (bell crank & thumb shifter).
So basically everything is in route... except for a seat
. Not gonna recoup what's in it so there's no way I'm springing for a Brooks B17. The Cardiff prices are all over the place, so I'm looking at one now that has copper rails (I dunno about that though?), pretty sure as soon as I commit to something I don't really want the Cardiff I want will come up at some stupid low price! Now I do have a line on a Black Gyes, sort of like a B17 but it has chrome springs... What do ya's think about that (the spring seat that is)?
Oh yea, and I worked up a decal for the head tube, post pics of that after I print it up...
Just obtained a black profile Imperial (That's gonna have to be close enough Luke
). On that same region, I've got a pair of Orig8 pedal with the blue anodized cage in route, which I'm thinking should look pretty cool. All the required Nexus and SA components are in route (bell crank & thumb shifter).So basically everything is in route... except for a seat
. Not gonna recoup what's in it so there's no way I'm springing for a Brooks B17. The Cardiff prices are all over the place, so I'm looking at one now that has copper rails (I dunno about that though?), pretty sure as soon as I commit to something I don't really want the Cardiff I want will come up at some stupid low price! Now I do have a line on a Black Gyes, sort of like a B17 but it has chrome springs... What do ya's think about that (the spring seat that is)?Oh yea, and I worked up a decal for the head tube, post pics of that after I print it up...
Pretty sure it's schpelled "schmancy"....Ah, but it is "fancy smancy"... What do you think the "RS" stands for? "Really Smancy"!
Yeah whatever "fancy pants"!
You should have made that your new avatar!
All in good time
What once approached the end of it's life in a pile of non descript withering neglected and abandoned heavy weight industrial bike stuff, relegated to some hot Texas backyard (That'd be Ind-ChuckZ's house)...
... then resurrected from what was sure to be a slow and rust filled deterioration...
I present to you... The "WORKSMAN RS"
... It still is waiting for a headset... and can you imagine, a coaster brake strap?! I don't even have a cheap one on hand to throw on it temporarily (Just when you start to think, "Man I am really starting to accumulate a stock pile of junk")! I received a really nice SA unit but it's too small for the stays:banghead: Oh well the finishing pieces should be here early next week
On a better note, the Nexus bell crank appears to be working just fine with the Redline chain tensioners. The SA thumb shifter swap out for the twist grip shift went pretty uneventful. The only concern I have is the shifter swing from 1st to 3rd seems pretty far, a result of the chain tensioner thickness... I dunno?
... then resurrected from what was sure to be a slow and rust filled deterioration...
I present to you... The "WORKSMAN RS"
... It still is waiting for a headset... and can you imagine, a coaster brake strap?!
I don't even have a cheap one on hand to throw on it temporarily (Just when you start to think, "Man I am really starting to accumulate a stock pile of junk")! I received a really nice SA unit but it's too small for the stays:banghead: Oh well the finishing pieces should be here early next weekOn a better note, the Nexus bell crank appears to be working just fine with the Redline chain tensioners. The SA thumb shifter swap out for the twist grip shift went pretty uneventful. The only concern I have is the shifter swing from 1st to 3rd seems pretty far, a result of the chain tensioner thickness... I dunno?
The bars are a GT set I picked up a the local BMX shop, and the stem's a 1996 Schwinn BMX ebay find.
Looks good!
Luke.
Luke.
Thanks ...Schmancy and "Real Schmancy" is what we're all about here a Mad Beach Mike's Beach Cruisers and Haberdashery...
To be honest I really haven't ridden it much due to my surgeon's orders of no physical exertion as a result of eye surgery. The quick jaunt I took on it before surgery was a rather smooth ride, the Fat Franks give it a pretty cushy ride, and the BMX BB and cranks along with the Nexxus 3 speed just make things function that much better.
Just got an OK from my doctor to at least be able to ride and moderate exertion so this one is about to be fine tuned this week some time. So then I'll start the second Worksman I have, get rolling on my Army G519 clone, and the second boardtrack racer.
Definitely go with the BMX BB and cranks, it makes such a difference over the 1 piece cranks and the install was practically tard proof
.
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Thanks ...Schmancy and "Real Schmancy" is what we're all about here a Mad Beach Mike's Beach Cruisers and Haberdashery...
To be honest I really haven't ridden it much due to my surgeon's orders of no physical exertion as a result of eye surgery. The quick jaunt I took on it before surgery was a rather smooth ride, the Fat Franks give it a pretty cushy ride, and the BMX BB and cranks along with the Nexxus 3 speed just make things function that much better.
Just got an OK from my doctor to at least be able to ride and moderate exertion so this one is about to be fine tuned this week some time. So then I'll start the second Worksman I have, get rolling on my Army G519 clone, and the second boardtrack racer.
Definitely go with the BMX BB and cranks, it makes such a difference over the 1 piece cranks and the install was practically tard proof
Yeah man, just bought one to keep at my mom's beach house. BMX cranks are definitely gonna be the first addition. It's already painted, but was considering hacking off the chainguard tabs. Was that a PITA?
I can't really say, took it to a friend's body shop since I knew if I did any major grinding here my overly sensitive neighbors would throw a fit! I don't see that it would be that difficult, sawzaw and a grinder should do it...
Mike G and others -
I came across this post as I'm essentially attempting a similar kinda 'clone' of the core 77 Dutchmaster. I've ordered the Worksman Newsboy frame - and was planning to get a Surly 1x1 1 1/8 threadless fork, but I've been seeing some signs online that this may not be possible with the stock worksman frame?
I contacted Cane Creek to get their advise on headset requirements and they recommended the EC34 from either their 40 series or 110 series. They believe it will work if the worksman head tube inner diameter of top and bottom is between 33.9mm to 33.95mm - but I don't yet have the frame to get these measurements.
Appreciate any advise on how to achieve this - and if you could auggest any other fork and headset combos that would be good for the stock worksman newsboy frame?
Thanks!
I came across this post as I'm essentially attempting a similar kinda 'clone' of the core 77 Dutchmaster. I've ordered the Worksman Newsboy frame - and was planning to get a Surly 1x1 1 1/8 threadless fork, but I've been seeing some signs online that this may not be possible with the stock worksman frame?
I contacted Cane Creek to get their advise on headset requirements and they recommended the EC34 from either their 40 series or 110 series. They believe it will work if the worksman head tube inner diameter of top and bottom is between 33.9mm to 33.95mm - but I don't yet have the frame to get these measurements.
Appreciate any advise on how to achieve this - and if you could auggest any other fork and headset combos that would be good for the stock worksman newsboy frame?
Thanks!
Well I just measured it with my handy dandy Harbor Freight digi-calipers... 33.3mm, give or take.
I was originally going to go the Surley route but the costs out weighed the benefits. Once I got the Worksman forks powder coated to match the frame I didn't regret it a bit.
I'd be the wrong guy to tell you anything about headsets, I just went with a stock replacement from Industrial Bicycles for like $9. I'd have to look back but I believe "Bicycle808" would be a better advice source than myself, he's done a threadless conversion with a stock WM frame.
Looking forward to seeing it as you progress and post some details on the threadless conversion.
The Worksman 1.125" recipe:
-Take the stock Worksman cups--if you ordered just a bare frame, get yourself a Worksman headset, or even just a Wald #4080 headset, but you'll only use the cups...Intall the cups in the frame
-Order a cheap loose ball NECO/Sunlite 1.125" threadless headset, like this thing here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Neco-1-1-8-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c5b50a1f
Put the NECO's cups and bearings back in the box; you won't need them. The rest of it will be used, though, so be ready, boy.
-Get a buncha 5/32" steel balls. Install the crown race on the fork. Turn frame upside down, put a bunch of heavy grease in the lower cup, and pack in as many 5/32" balls as will fit, but leave a gap big enough for one loose ball. Grease the crown race, slide the fork in, turn the frame over once the crown race is in place so the balls can't drop out.
-Put a pile of heavy grease in the upper cup, pack the same number of 5/32" balls in there, and install the rest of the NECO headset as-usual. Your life is now awesome.
(**Please note: when it's time to repack your headset, try to remember that you used a bunch of loose balls, and be ready for them to fall out all over the place. I like to do it over a bucket, to catch the balls as they drop...)
That's one way to do it without any frame mods. The other way would be to use a lathe and turn down the headset cups to 33.4mm at the skirts. If you're not afraid to modify the frame, you could bore the headtube out to 33.9mm. But the mix-n-match headset is probably the cheapest, and it's pretty easy...
One final note: your research online may turn up a product called the "Retro Ryder" headset, by Genuine Bicycle Products. While this is a fine product, the cups will fit loose in a Worksman, and you'd need to run shims. FWIW, the Retro Ryder appears to be a modified 34mm/1.125" NECO threadless that has been turned down to something close to 32.5mm at the skirts....
HTH
-Rob
-Take the stock Worksman cups--if you ordered just a bare frame, get yourself a Worksman headset, or even just a Wald #4080 headset, but you'll only use the cups...Intall the cups in the frame
-Order a cheap loose ball NECO/Sunlite 1.125" threadless headset, like this thing here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Neco-1-1-8-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c5b50a1f
Put the NECO's cups and bearings back in the box; you won't need them. The rest of it will be used, though, so be ready, boy.
-Get a buncha 5/32" steel balls. Install the crown race on the fork. Turn frame upside down, put a bunch of heavy grease in the lower cup, and pack in as many 5/32" balls as will fit, but leave a gap big enough for one loose ball. Grease the crown race, slide the fork in, turn the frame over once the crown race is in place so the balls can't drop out.
-Put a pile of heavy grease in the upper cup, pack the same number of 5/32" balls in there, and install the rest of the NECO headset as-usual. Your life is now awesome.
(**Please note: when it's time to repack your headset, try to remember that you used a bunch of loose balls, and be ready for them to fall out all over the place. I like to do it over a bucket, to catch the balls as they drop...)
That's one way to do it without any frame mods. The other way would be to use a lathe and turn down the headset cups to 33.4mm at the skirts. If you're not afraid to modify the frame, you could bore the headtube out to 33.9mm. But the mix-n-match headset is probably the cheapest, and it's pretty easy...
One final note: your research online may turn up a product called the "Retro Ryder" headset, by Genuine Bicycle Products. While this is a fine product, the cups will fit loose in a Worksman, and you'd need to run shims. FWIW, the Retro Ryder appears to be a modified 34mm/1.125" NECO threadless that has been turned down to something close to 32.5mm at the skirts....
HTH
-Rob
