1962 Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike

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I am starting a (re)build thread on a bike I got maybe 10 years ago in a basement cleanout that looked like a 1960s garage sale.
When I got it it had chrome S-2 Wheels with tractor grip tires and a red Solo Polo seat. It also had Longhorn bars with Red Schwinn script grips. That was a true Pig Bike from the beginnings of Pig Bikes.
Then I sold it to a friend who wanted it to look more like a Stingray, so he changed the seat and handlebars. We put the chainguard on it from a 1962 Buddy, it had the same frame except for the stamped joints instead of the welded joints.
Somewhere in the shuffle the original bars and seat are lost or I would never have touched it.
Since that is not the case it is going to become something else. It will be a Dad and Son vision of a cool bike that was built from parts they could access at the time and work they could do themselselves. Since it was 1950s-1960s parts chroming was cheap and easily accessible so there was no reason not to go with some parts that may not have been done to that point.
Below is some photos of what the bike was when I started. Progress photos to come.
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The seat I purchased for the project. It was actually recovered at home by a Dad that builds some custom bikes with his sons so I felt it was perfect and the price was more than reasonable. Included in the price was a piece of extra vinyl large enough to make a nice sissybar pad. Thanks to Max Golter for this!
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The fork for the project came from bobcycles. When I received it all it needed was some paint removed and polished which I will be doing soon. Thanks Bob!
I will either need to rethread and cut the neck or make a shiny chrome spacer for it.

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Now some shots of the (almost) bare frame. After receiving these parts I am going to do something I swore I wouldn't do. Repaint.
It just will not look like it all belongs together with how bad the paint looks. I tried polishing but some of the color burned out on the top bar from being outdoors for half its life.
There is a bright side, this frame I'm 1962 came in Flamboyant Red.
Now I need an economical way to paint it. I already have more money in this than my original plan of getting a sprung Solo Polo and a set of handlebars and I am an old disabled guy on a budget.
As you can see in the last photo the only part I could get to shine good enough to pass muster was the bottom of the bottom bracket. Kinda hard to see in riding position.

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Wheelsets are to be some version of multi speed with drum brakes front and rear. I plan to modify some type of boat shifter to change gears.
Handlebars will be either Tiller bars or Shelby Airflo bars.
Pedals are to be a combo of Torrington Jeweled reflectors and Sunburst end caps.
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Chainguard will be this 1950s Hercules unit. This one has a screening on it I want to replace once it's cleaned up.

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I do have a picture in my mind. Back then, as I know from growing up in the 1960s-1970s kids were big into colors, the brighter the better.

Plasticote Metallic Red is almost an exact match for Flamboyant Red, you have to get right up on the frame within a foot or so before you can see any difference in the metallic content. I didn't want to go that route only because I am a pain in the ... that way. Once I get a picture of something in my mind it is really hard to let go of it, and my picture was original paint. Not enough paint left on that picture.

I also considered House of Kolor Candy Red over their Silver Aluminum base, but that requires breaking out paint guns and I am not quite ready for that much work yet.

Downside is the wait. As the clock ticks and tocks I get closer to the tolling bell and you probably know how us old guys get when we start thinking we hear that bell.
At least I can clean my fork, search more for the logo screened onto my chainguard, buy more parts (YAY) and maybe find a 10' piece of Stainless tube to bend my sissybar from. And there is always the most dangerous project a man can conceive.
Thinking.
You see what happened to this guy for doing that! The gods turned him to bronze and made him sit in public naked for, well forever.
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I have came up with paint I can live with at a price I can live with as well.
4 step process.
I am probably at or around $30 for all the paint.

1). RUSTOLEUM sandable Red oxide primer. It is about as dark as the original Sherwin Williams primer and about $5.00 for an oversize spray can.

2). RUSTOLEUM Silver chrome base coat. It was the brightest silver I found. Almost $6.50/can.

3). Plasti-Coat Metalcast Red. Listed as a cold anodizing color, but when sprayed over silver the effect should be a good enough representation of Flamboyant Red to make me happy. Who knows, I may like it enough to use it on the next project. Not at liberty to divulge that information yet. Cost was about $9.00/can.

4 RUSTOLEUM Clear Coat. Bought a good one hoping that the protection is worth the cost. I had an Apple Krate repaint crumble to dust and I used all Dupli-Color products, except for the Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer. Cost about $6.00/can
Remember this is not a restoration. However, if this color turns out nice enough it is a reasonable alternative to at least one Schwinn color I cannot afford to buy on my budget.
The MetalCast colors are a translucent line of colors, with properties that resemble Kandy Kolors. The line also includes Blue, Yellow and Purple and Green as well as a bright aluminum base and a clear coat. Probably others as well but that's what I have seen for sale personally
The Rustoleum Cobalt Blue Metallic is a beautiful color as well. Not quite Sky Blue, but awesome nonetheless.
Call me crazy, but I am going to replace at least the Schwinn Quality sawtooth decal on the downtime. I will also replace the headbadge with a Red Phantom reproduction unit.
I am using a lot of reproduction parts as long as they are identical or very close to identical to the parts they represent. I am going for an idea here. I am not making a bike to claim as an original 1960s Pig Bike. This one was but the original parts are gone so it will become a representation of what a Dad and Son could've came up with using parts they had or could grab from a pile of bicycles for free or low cost. Also a little chroming because chrome was cheap back then and shops were everywhere. Every morning I wake up and thank the EPA for protecting me from the evils of having excessive chrome on my bikes, motorcycles and cars.
As long as the look is period correct that is all that matters to me. I am also not altering any part that cannot be put back to stock.


I haven't made much progress, except I did purchase a rear Sturmey Archer 3 speed drum hub for a 36 hole rim from a guy in England.
It needs some cleaning but it should fit right in.
Somewhere here I have a Sturmey Archer 4 speed complete hub, I may swap the assembly into the drum hub, as I have checked and it will fit.
I may buy a 3 speed cluster that was popular in the 1950s when derailleurs only shifted 2 or 3 gears. I can make up a 3x3 or 3x4 axle giving me 9 or 12 speeds without a front derailleur or double sprockets.
I may have a second rear unit and 28 hole front Dynohub. I will know next week. Looking at the set, the rear drum has holes just like a Dynohub. I am about 90% certain the drum hub and Dynohub are the same without the Dyno parts riveted in. I could convert the front Dynohub to a Drum brake hub. I don't need to but I hate using both my spare 36 hole S-2 rims on this bike. We will see.
I found a nice bare 36 hole front drum hub, but I need a 32 or 40 hole I can buy reasonable for the backing plate and axle parts. As you can tell I am still working out the front hub.
I think I may take my frame to a friend with a sandblasting shop unless I can build a hopper booth large enough for a bike frame soon.
 
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Thanks for the likes and comments!
I am working night and day on ways to make this project more expensive and time consuming.
I may use an old Delta, Big Beam or Eveready flashlight, the metal ones from the 1950s-1960s with the metal body and battery box with the 6 volt battery and the red signal light to make a homemade headlamp/taillamp.
I am going to use a chrome AS seat clamp with the D shaped head on the bolt, and maybe a Cycletruck gooseneck to elevate the bars to the desired level.
I may go with a (reproduction) Indian headbadge instead of the Schwinn Phantom badge I originally thought of.
The more I think of the more time and money it will take to build and that is my creed. No buck left unspent.
 
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I bought a Delta Seal beam flashlight with the flashing red light on the back handle. I picked this one over the BigBeam, Eveready Big Jim, Ray-o-Vac Hunter and some others because this one has a slight protusion in the ring on the front light that makes it look like a real headlight. And yes it is the same company that makes the Delta headlights we all love from the beginning of bike headlights at least to the 1980s.
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I also bought a red bicycle license plate dated 61-62 from the exotic town of Watertown Wisconsin.
Sure it isn't LA or Daytona, but it is part of the most fertile and productive areas of the country, The Great Midwest.
A lot of manufacturing was based in the Midwest including several top bicycle manufacturers like Schwinn, Murray Huffy AMF and originally Pope which became Columbia. A lot of smaller manufacturers originated in the Midwest as well.
So before you dis Waterton, remember that if it wasn't for the Midwest we would all be on here polishing and comparing our boots and athletic shoes.

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I am awaiting this Sturmey Archer Three Speed Drum Brake Hub as well.
I plan to put the 3 gear cluster on it, making it a 9 speed with no front derailleur.
It is actually newer than I wanted but it is still the same exact hub they have produced since the first of these rolled off the line so it is good enough for me.

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I still need a front hub and would prefer a 28 spoke so I can use a 20x1-3/8 S5-6 style wheel. I want the narrowest tire I can have on the front so I can be assured of having no directional control when I am going fast around a corner on gravel.
I can buy an English 20x1-1/4 36 hole rim but I an too cheap to pay for it to be shipped from Greece I guess. I have a spoke station from an old bike shop I cleaned out full of spokes so it isn't like I have a shortage of spokes.
More later. Rob
 

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I dug a pair of tires out of my pile that I believe will be perfect for the wheels I have in mind.
For the rear S-2 wheel I have a blackwall Carlisle Lightning Dart 20x2.125 tire that was NOS when I got it along with a pile of tires from a bike shop I used to go to in high school.
The front will have an S-5 wheel, so I found an NOS Carlisle Ribgripper tire to do the deed.
I have been looking at tires for a month now and I had them all along. I think the Indian Heads on the rear tire are awesome!
No photos tonite, but I will take a couple photos in the afternoon today.
Rob
 
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Well after setting up my tires to photograph I determined that the Lightning Dart is probably not NOS after all. I don't care, it is still good enough to use on the bike. Just doing full disclosure here.

The Ribgripper is NOS though, it still has a sticker on one side with the price I believe.
The odd thing (I thought) was that it only has writing on one side. I see that on newer tires but I don't recall the older tires being like that.

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This post is actually several posts compiled into one excessively long and eye gouging level boring post with as much useless information I could find or make up in the last couple days.
I figured out I can write a post over at The CABE and transfer it words and photos complete here, and edit out the options and replies. I can transfer words from here to The Cabe, but not photos. As if anyone cares.


Post 1
My reproduction Red Teardrop Schwinn Script grips came in the mail, they look nice enough with the seat to make me say OK.
The Delta flashlight I bought to make the headlight and taillight from made it to about 15 miles of my house. Then USPS decided it needed to go all the way back to the sorting center about 55 miles away so it can finish its 2022 Midwest Tour.
If I get lucky it may show up tomorrow so it can sit in my shop for a month or so until I do something with it, like move it somewhere safer and lose it permanently.
USPS loses or delays at least 15% of everything I buy.
I am just glad I get tracking numbers so I can watch my purchases get lost in real time.
Photos of the grips and light tomorrow. Or whenever the light shows up.
I plan to purchase a 10ft piece of 5/8" OD stainless tube and have it bent into a Troxel style sissybar for the Solo Polo. If I do not find someone to bend it I will pack it with sand and do it myself. I also have vinyl to make a full length sissybar pad to match the seat.
I am actually getting close to having enough parts to assemble most of it.
I saw an instructional here on how to buff out crappy paint like mine.
I already knew how, but it never occurred to me to get a smaller air buffer or use my air angle grinder with a pressure regulator to slow it down. I was picturing buffing it with my 7" buffer and that was going to be more work than painting it.
I really want to save the paint if I can. I do not care about the scratches and chips but the awful fading and haze was too much for me to handle with the nice parts I have for it. Now there is hope once again.
That's all for now. Back again tomorrow for another thrilling journey through the twisting corridors and cluttered chambers of my wandering mind.
Rob


Post 2
I forgot there are a couple photos of the Delta light on page 2 of this rant. So tomorrow I will post nice photos of the grips and seat laid out together. The colors are not a perfect match but I believe they will go well together.
Rob

Post 3
I have changed my direction on handlebars. I got thinking and when the smoke from my brain frying cleared I realized this is a 1962 bike.
The era of using the Longhorn Bars was over and kids moved on to motorcycle handlebars so they started using the new chopper style Apehanger Bars.
I found a set of 1960s vintage Apehangers I had in some old Triumph parts and they are perfect other than needing a shim welded to the center for the handlebar stem to clamp to properly. They are similar to the original Wald wide Stingray bars except they are wider and the top bends are longer than bicycle handlebars. This will not look like I stuck a set of Stingray bars on it!
I will take a couple photos to update this change tomorrow.

I also fitted the rear 3 speed Drum brake hub to the frame and will show that as well.
Rob

Post 4
I just realized tomorrow never comes. And the cardinal rule I live by.
Do not do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
So I waited until a couple minutes ago to make the last post.

Now it is today (again) and I am posting the post I should wait until tomorrow to post.
Oh well, what the hey!

My frame with the Sturmey-Archer hub. I didn't use anything but my hands to spread it, but I think I will go a tiny bit of a spread to make it slip fit. It took 3 men and a baby to wiggle it in and I do not want to beat it to death once it is done.
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The set of 60s motorcycle chopper handlebars I plan to use on the Schwinn springer.

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They are almost identical to the wide Wald bars except the pullback is a lot less and the bars after the top bend where the grips go are longer. I like that, leaned forward they are good for wheelies!
Now I am where I should be on my posts. Unfortunately I broke my own rule.
I didn't put off till tomorrow what I could do today.
Rob

Post 5
I may use that hub on another bike. I have a chance to buy a 4 speed drum hub.
One member here tried to bring me to my senses by telling me (and probably rightly so) that this bike doesn't need as many speeds as I am planning. I want to use a 3 cog Cyclo cluster made for the S/A internal gear hubs, with a vintage derailleur Anda homemade twin Stikk Shifft assembly. With the 4 speed hub that is 12 speeds.

I probably do not need a 500 hp small block Chevy engine to power a 1500 lb street rod either but the facts never stopped me from doing what I know better than to do.

More on that after March 1st.
Rob


Post 6

I just realized I never posted the photos of the seat and grips together for your viewing displeasure. I will do that later today since I put it off at least a couple tomorrows.​


I also have the flashlight and have, in an unprecedented move for me dismantled it into 3 pieces before I lose it. The headlamp part, the battery mount plate and the taillamp part. I may use that to hide a 6 volt AGM battery like emergency lights use.
I have some chrome sheet metal probably about 1/16" thick I am going to bend into a battery box and use the battery mount plate without the handle as the top.

Only one question.
When is later today?
Rob
 
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It is still today, so here they are! The photos of the seat and grips are finally posted for everyone to look at, shake their heads and tell their children "See, this is what happens from years of psychedelic drug abuse".
Seriously though, my friends promised me this wouldn't happen!
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I know the colors are not exactly the same but I think they will work out great once everything is clean and assembled.
The colors man. The colors.
What a long, strange trip it's been!
Rob

P.S. In perfect form, it is no longer today so I waited til the next today to post this so I could make up for posting multiple todays yesterday.

Try saying that fast even once.

Better yet, try making sense out of that even once.
 

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I like that man.

Now one for your consideration.

I don't even know what those 6 other pics are.

I only had one photo on this posting when I copied it from The CABE to move over here. When I was ready to post I had to remove a bunch of stuff I know I didn't copy but I didn't want to remove the one photo, but since I couldn't see what was on those either so I left them hoping they would become visible after I posted. When they didn't I just left them thinking they wouldn't show anywhere else.

Since you noticed and left that content appropriate comment I am not going to try editing to fix it because then the full appreciation of your post would not be realized.

Thanks for noticing and assisting me in my 1960s themed rant.
Or is it a rant? Maybe it's a day in the life?
 
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Well, here I go again. Another change. I don't usually do change well but this bike is really testing me.
I bought a Spaceliner chainguard, the one with the louver slots cut in it. I was going to try it on my wheelie bike and if I liked it I was going to put the Flaming Stack Orange backing on it.

Then I thought. Let's pause here a moment and ponder that. I thought. Those words have done everything from write love songs to start wars. Now back to the story at hand.

I thought maybe I would try it on the Typhoon Pig Bike. Now I am changing the plan and running with this chainguard with a Red backing behind the louver holes. Kind of a George Barris/Iverson meets Huffy Flaming Stack.

I am going to clean off the Spaceliner logo area (GASP!) and maybe have a decal made to put in its place. Fold over the rear mounting tab and put a chrome bracket from there to the frame.
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This is a rough idea of what I have going on that so far. If this bike would've really been built in the early 1960s it would've pre-dated the Super Deluxe Stingray, the Krate series for drum brake wheels and the Huffy Rail for the tall sissybar and Flaming Stack chainguard.

Who else have I ripped off building this bike?

I am also thinking about building a tank style tool box like one I saw for sale here for an antique bike. It would fit between the top bar and the seat stays so the style of the bike stays visible. Big enough for 3 or 4 wrenches, a patch kit and a tire gauge. Maybe have a lock keyed to match the fork lock.
I also want to get a small tire pump to mount below it with brackets for it hanging between the seat stay tubes under the tank.

Will this ever end? Will this bike ever be finished? Will I be judged mentally incompetent and be committed to a sanitarium?
Who knows, but it has been a fun ride so far.
Until later, Rob
 
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A new twist, as well as an old plan delayed brought these two beauties together.
Actually months ago I looked at a speedometer that I thought personifies this build. Then a bunch of life went sideways and I thought I had lost out on it.

Then a week back I ran across something that color wise looked like it also belongs, and belongs with the speedometer as well. So I broke open my Piggy Bank (every Pig Bike should have one) and had JUST enough to buy the new find.

The question was, is the speedometer still available? It took me several days of spare time searching thru the forum I found it. I had saved it, but it was not visible in my saved items. After almost exhausting my options I saw a name I thought I recognized as being the seller, so I checked his posts and voila! I found it!
OK you have been patient so here is the speedometer.
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And here is my new find, an Archer radio/horn/reflector. It is newer, because it is an AM/FM radio, but let's face it. 1960s WLS Rock and Roll is no longer being played on WLS, so I had to be creative. It looks like the AM Radio, but with one more switch for FM. Besides, this is not a concours restoration, it is a Resto-Mod so I can have a little poetic license.
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Honestly, if it did not have a horn or a reflector I would not miss them. I will never honk that horn when I can have something really cool. I will probably cover the reflector with an NOS in the package reflector I have with a Rebel Flag on it. I will add that photo tomorrow.

I received the Radio today, and will have the Speedometer in the next week or so.

Good thing I am going multi speed on this, the bike is headed past 50lbs at light speed, which is about 186,000 mps faster than this bike will move running downhill with a 100lb rolling ball dragging it.

Enough for now, at least until my plan changes again which never results in a cost saving situation.
Rob
 
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The Rebel Flag reflector is slightly too big, so I will use it on another bike.
Now I am searching. I do not like the amber reflector with all the red.
Maybe a clear one, who knows?
Or some cool period decal?
 
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I am behind a little on the thread updates but I am trying to do some cleanup and reorganization around the place.

I bought these wheels in February and did not get to them until last week. I did a little cleanup and put my vintage Carlisle tires on them. I have a Lightning Dart on the rear and a Roadgripper on the front.

When I bought them I thought they were 20x1-3/8 wheels because they looked narrow and they were from a Raleigh Shopper/Twenty. I was planning to use the front wheel as is with an S-5/6 Ribgripper tire and respoke the rear onto an S-2 size rim. I was going to use the spare lightweight rim and another front hub on one of my other bikes.

Turns out the later bikes used 20x1.75 tires. At least for now I am running the 1.75 tire on the front. Later I will try to find a lightweight 20 France made wheel with the brake grip pattern on the sides.

Since these photos I have torn down the fork, cleaned off all the orange paint remains and put my "AS" bolts in from a Schwinn Cruiser fork I had off of a girls bike I found in parts back in or about 2014.

Who would've thought one of the reissue Cruiser bikes with the welded steer tube would have "AS" bolts? Maybe leftovers from the Phantom Reissue bikes?

In an earlier post I mentioned that I had reversed the steer tube so I could get a little more rake and length on the bike. I finally got around to bending the top bracket so it would sit level when I put the spacer on the fork to adapt it to the Stingray size front frame tube. You can see in this photo the top bracket is at an angle to the steer tube.

I plan to use a 2" axle spacer for a Harley Davidson 1" diameter axle for the fork spacer, that way I can have a spacer with a large OD in chrome so it looks like it belongs on the fork. The spacer will be installed on the top of the fork.
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Man, those Lightning Dart balloon tires look cool. The next best thing to a Slik in my opinion. Besides, the Slik tires were not available in 1962.

I will update the front fork photos tomorrow if I get a chance.

April 20th 2022
A couple parts updates;

1). I found a 20x1-3/8 side knurled rim to match the rear wheel. I will be spoking the front drum to the lightweight rim. Thats the look I wanted!
The rim came spoked to a 1974 ACS 36 spoke hub. I will most likely sell it to someone doing a BMX freewheel rim to help recover a little of my investment.
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2). An electric siren, of course its red to match the radio and speedometer. I think the bottom of the handlebars is officially filled with accessories now.

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3). I have changed my plan for a tool box from making a frame tank. I do not want to hide the twin straight bar design. My solution?
I am buying another vintage flashlight and dismantling it for the battery box. The light I chose is a chrome Ash-Flash 6 volt lantern. The box has a louvered look, and the lid hinges like a toolbox should. Mounting choice will have to wait until i have it.
Either on or under a chrome rack, or attached to the side of a rack like a Sportster battery box.

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Now I am looking for a set of red lever hoods. I need something vintage. So far the only ones I have found are Raleigh, which would be ok but they are in England and the shipping is more than the price. Hard to justify $50 for brake lever hoods. I know Weinmann had to have made some as well. They would match my lever covers.

Maybe I am not looking in the right place. A'ME seems to make them in every color except red. They are kinda newer than I wanted, but they would do in a pinch.

I may put a post in wanted later if I dont find them soon.
 
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Found the red lever hoods in merry old England. I have a friend there mailing them to me because he can get them here for about half the postage eBay wanted which was more than the cost of the little rubber guys themselves. To boot I am also getting a black indicator protector for about $4 US no extra shipping. The shipping was about 3x the cost of the part.
I am adding this bike to the Build Off Class 1 so all future posts will be about progress finally!
Rob
 
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First progress report on the Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike project. No name yet but one will come to me, probably in my sleep like most of my ideas do.
Scary even to me and I am used to it.

I am behind a little on the thread updates but I am trying to do some cleanup and reorganization around the place.

I bought these wheels in February and did not get to them until last week. I did a little cleanup and put my vintage Carlisle tires on them. I have a Lightning Dart on the rear and a Roadgripper on the front.

When I bought them I thought they were 20x1-3/8 wheels because they looked narrow and they were from a Raleigh Shopper/Twenty. I was planning to use the front wheel as is with an S-5/6 Rob gripper tire and respoke the rear onto an S-2 size rim. I was going to use the spare lightweight rim and another front hub on one of my other bikes.

Turns out the later bikes used 20x1.75 tires. At least for now I am running the 1.75 tire on the front. Later I will try to find a lightweight 20 France made wheel with the brake grip pattern on the sides.

Since these photos I have torn down the fork, cleaned off all the orange paint remains and put my "AS" bolts in from a Schwinn Cruiser fork I had off of a girls bike I found in parts back in or about 2014.

Who would've thought one of the reissue Cruiser bikes with the welded steer tube would have "AS" bolts? Maybe leftovers from the Phantom Reissue bikes?

In an earlier post I mentioned that I had reversed the steer tube so I could get a little more rake and length on the bike. I finally got around to bending the top bracket so it would sit level when I put the spacer on the fork to adapt it to the Stingray size front frame tube. You can see in this photo the top bracket is at an angle to the steer tube.

I plan to use a 2" axle spacer for a Harley Davidson 1" diameter axle for the fork spacer, that way I can have a spacer with a large OD in chrome so it looks like it belongs on the fork. The spacer will be installed on the top of the fork.
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Man, those Lightning Dart balloon tires look cool. The next best thing to a Slik in my opinion. Besides, the Slik tires were not available in 1962.

I will update the front fork photos tomorrow if I get a chance.

April 20th 2022
A couple parts updates;

1). I found a 20x1-3/8 side knurled rim to match the rear wheel. I will be spoking the front drum to the lightweight rim. Thats the look I wanted!
The rim came spoked to a 1974 ACS 36 spoke hub. I will most likely sell it to someone doing a BMX freewheel rim to help recover a little of my investment.
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2). An electric siren, of course its red to match the radio and speedometer. I think the bottom of the handlebars is officially filled with accessories now.

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3). I have changed my plan for a tool box from making a frame tank. I do not want to hide the twin straight bar design. My solution?
I am buying another vintage flashlight and dismantling it for the battery box. The light I chose is a chrome Ash-Flash 6 volt lantern. The box has a louvered look, and the lid hinges like a toolbox should. Mounting choice will have to wait until i have it.
Either on or under a chrome rack, or attached to the side of a rack like a Sportster battery box.

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Now I am looking for a set of red lever hoods. I need something vintage. So far the only ones I have found are Raleigh, which would be ok but they are in England and the shipping is more than the price. Hard to justify $50 for brake lever hoods. I know Weinmann had to have made some as well. They would match my lever covers.

Maybe I am not looking in the right place. A'ME seems to make them in every color except red. They are kinda newer than I wanted, but they would do in a pinch.

I may put a post in wanted later if I dont find them soon.
I have unspoked 2 wheels, my front 20x1.75 drum brake wheel and an ACS hub rear that is 20x1-3/8. I am putting the brake hub on the lightweight rim. I will post photos and my unprogress report later today.
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The lightweight wheel before I butchered it.
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OK, I lied. My adopted cat Jax took the wheel apart for me while I watched and learned.

Now I need to buy at least 18 14g spokes at 194mm. 18 of the spokes from this wheel are the right length to fit the drum hub. 18 spokes from the other wheel would've fit the other side but they are Cadmium plated and the others are Stainless. And never the twain shall meet.
 
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This build is officially transferred to the Build Off #17 Class 1 Build Journals as "Hawg Wylde" thank you to everyone who has commented or followed me this far.
I have a whole stack of new ideas going forward, now that I will have competition and a deadline I will also have more incentive to be creative.
Hopefully time and dwindling project fundulation will not become my enemies, but since they both have in the past it is not like I will not recognize them when they head their ugly rears.
Or something like that.
Thanks Again,
Rob
 

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