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CRASH said:
So the spring is resolved. It’s got enough pull to get that cable back. But, like @Chad T said, this is a MTB caliper and requires more pull. So, when I full pull the brake lever, it barely engages the brake. It needs another inch of movement. So I can get V-brake levers to try that out. But I have a question for @Chad T : even if I get the lever, will the drag brake not work? Do you think I should get a road caliper?
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Not really familiar with the drag brake but if you wanted it to be functional it might need some extra pull. Unless it has extra travel to it then you might be set. Kind of a gimmicky thing this drag brake but I know you want it to work. Love those dremel fiber wheels. They'll cut through anything.
 
Chad T said:
Not really familiar with the drag brake but if you wanted it to be functional it might need some extra pull. Unless it has extra travel to it then you might be set. Kind of a gimmicky thing this drag brake but I know you want it to work. Love those dremel fiber wheels. They'll cut through anything.
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The dremel fiber wheels took FOREVER. I even pulled out the 4.5" grinder to get through some of it quicker. But it got done, and the Niners won. That's all that counts.

Yes, the drag brake is a gimmick. I want it to work for visual purposes only. Honestly, this bike is going to be a show/collection piece. if it's ridden, it'll be down the block. But I'd still like everything functional. To me that's important. So I'll get the brake lever in (I should have ordered one when you told me originally) and I'll try that out. Then I'll set up the Drag Brake and see how that works. It doesn't have to work perfect, but just work.
 
The inspiration for this build came in the form of a Huffy Rail that used a Cragar hubcap cover set on the rear wheel to create something exceptional. So I set out to do something similar. I found a hubcap cover set that would hopefully work and I set out to modify them, and the rear mag wheel I had purchased.

CA3D9E9F-9841-4672-B3D5-017227F2F8BF.jpeg



I couldn’t make it work without looking like garbage. So I abandoned the idea. However, I had already hacked the “wings” off the mag wheel. (See the original picture on the first page) so today I set out to make the wheel look a little less hacked. My goal is to smooth the cuts out, scuff all the original paint, and put the whole wheel in primer to get shot with color. That was the compromise I had to make to myself. The sad part: it took me literal YEARS to accept defeat of the hubcaps.

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CRASH said:
I couldn’t make it work without looking like garbage. So I abandoned the idea. However, I had already hacked the “wings” off the mag wheel. (See the original picture on the first page) so today I set out to make the wheel look a little less hacked. My goal is to smooth the cuts out, scuff all the original paint, and put the whole wheel in primer to get shot with color. That was the compromise I had to make to myself. The sad part: it took me literal YEARS to accept defeat of the hubcaps.
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Oh, that's too bad, it's a really cool idea. I'm sure it can be brought to fruition at some point in the future. You've got my gears turning now, I really like that idea. :cool:
 
If you needed more proof on just how much of a basket case this Huffy Twin Stick shifter was, here’s the mounting plate after an evaporust bath. It looks like a moon rock!

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So I just smoothed it out. I’m going to send it to get chrome, along with a couple other parts, later on. It’s not really seen once mounted, but I wanted it protected.

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Tell me I’m being nuts. Those of you who have watched my work know that I’m a bit of a stickler for “correct” parts as much as I can. So this build flies in the face of that because I’m adding modern parts to an old muscle bike. But I still want it to have a vintage look. Which brings me to the dilemma of the brake lever. I haven’t even tried it yet and it’s bugging me. The black lever and painted silver. I already removed the “Avid” off of it. Should I take the next step and remove the paint, then polish it out? I can’t remove the lever itself because it’s pressed in there. So it may come out looking like crap. It’s a gamble. What do you think?

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You may have missed during the build: Because of the extra pull required for the MTB disc brake I'm using, I have to use a modern disc brake lever. I tried an Excel lever that came with the '69 Super Stock, and it just doesn't provide enough cable pull to actuate the pads. So... this is the lever. So the question stands...
 
Rather than stripping the paint off you can sand down the paint that is on the grip and the cable adjuster, sanding more those places that historically see more wear - and just remove all the paint from the mount so you can polish it. Somewhere in there you will find the required look.
 

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