If you have a road bike caliper the drag brake should work. If it's MTB those require more cable pull and need to be used with v-brake levers.
Super Fueler
- Thread starter CRASH
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Well, I went for cheap since I’ve never done it before, so I think I have a MTB caliper. I was just going to use a standard muscle bike lever. I’ll see how that works first, so you can say “I told you so”. But I’ll look for the V-brake in the mean time.
As soon as I’m done with paint prep on my Aerobee, the Super Fueler will be back on the stand. So I need to get the shifter ready to fit everything and test it.
As you may remember, I am bringing the Huffy Twin Stick back from the dead because they are extremely rare and expensive. One of the parts that was missing was the extra long brake housing stop in the front. The reason for the extra length is because it held a spring that put outward pressure on the housing. This kept the housing pushed into the brake lever ferrel when the cable slacks off from the drag brake. It’s hard to explain, but without the spring, when you engage the drag brake the housing will just fall out of the brake lever. So… I need it.
Of course I don’t have one because it’s the only shifter I’ve ever seen is one like it. So… I have to make one. I have a short stop.
At Ace I picked up and aluminum extension that is the same diameter and a spring that fits inside and hopefully has the right amount of tension.
Step one was to Expand the center of the extension.
Which now accepts housing.
Next I’m going to clean up the two parts then try to figure out how to JB Weld them together strong enough to hold, but minimal enough to not look terrible. Maybe I can sand and paint it when I’m done? Has anyone worked with it before?
As you may remember, I am bringing the Huffy Twin Stick back from the dead because they are extremely rare and expensive. One of the parts that was missing was the extra long brake housing stop in the front. The reason for the extra length is because it held a spring that put outward pressure on the housing. This kept the housing pushed into the brake lever ferrel when the cable slacks off from the drag brake. It’s hard to explain, but without the spring, when you engage the drag brake the housing will just fall out of the brake lever. So… I need it.
Of course I don’t have one because it’s the only shifter I’ve ever seen is one like it. So… I have to make one. I have a short stop.
At Ace I picked up and aluminum extension that is the same diameter and a spring that fits inside and hopefully has the right amount of tension.
Step one was to Expand the center of the extension.
Which now accepts housing.
Next I’m going to clean up the two parts then try to figure out how to JB Weld them together strong enough to hold, but minimal enough to not look terrible. Maybe I can sand and paint it when I’m done? Has anyone worked with it before?
Well, like I thought, it looks like some crap. I’m worried if I just keep enough on the seam, but not on the outside, it won’t be strong enough. Luckily it will be under the shifter and not easily seen. We’ll see what I can do after 24 hours of curing in the vice.
I've been told that you can machine JB Weld. If you have a lathe you might be able to shape it a little. Or maybe chuck it up in a drill motor and shape it with some sand paper? Might ba able to clean it up and leave enough for strength.
I don't have a lathe, but I like that second idea. I'll give that a try tonight. I'll also pick up some silver paint. Or maybe I should try one of those chrome paint pens I see advertised. hmmmm
@Dr. Tankenstein has a ton of experience with those Chrome pens. I believe he's used them on several of his builds
A small detail. I cut, smoothed and polished the end of this small bolt so it would sit a little more finished with the fender.
Sometimes the littlest details mean the most
Getting the mock-up going. I’m finding small issues at every step, but that’s the work, isn’t it? It’s starting to look like a bike!
Yeah, a very Kooool bike!
It is with heavy heart that I must announce a loss.
For the life of me, I cannot find the view window for the twin stick cover. There is really only one place I would have kept it, and it isn’t there. I’ve the years and through several moves, it lost its way.
I’m not sure how I’ll make a new one from scratch, but I am forced to travel that path. Please join me in my grief for its passing.
For the life of me, I cannot find the view window for the twin stick cover. There is really only one place I would have kept it, and it isn’t there. I’ve the years and through several moves, it lost its way.
I’m not sure how I’ll make a new one from scratch, but I am forced to travel that path. Please join me in my grief for its passing.
Is it just an acrylic panel or something?
Bummer! Does it need lettering and graphics?
Thank you for the many DMs and the hundreds of dollars pouring into my GoFundMe account…
But it has been found! In a relatively stupid place, while looking for something else, there is was, hiding.
Ok… on with the build!
But it has been found! In a relatively stupid place, while looking for something else, there is was, hiding.
Ok… on with the build!
Yeah!! I’m good at misplacing, not so much finding.
Does anyone have a good grip cleaning/restoration technique? These are a little hard. Last Huffy pair I soaked in dish soap I ruined because the color leached out. Before I just scrub them in dish soap, I thought I’d ask for proven methods.
It’s time to put the brake theories to the test. I started with cutting and finishing the housing.
I did that 8 times. (The brakes require 3 sections of housing), plus the shift housing. In my Aerobee thread someone asked what tool I used to crimp. It’s an old cheap housing cutter that doesn’t cut housing well, but the round jaws make good crimpers.
The ferrel I’m using at the back of the shift body is slightly bigger than the original.
So a quick drill, and there we go.
I mounted it all together and here is how it routes. I’m using a extra long Tandem brake cable to ensure I have enough length. I used two pulleys on the seat tube to get the cable from the top of the bike to the bottom as clean as possible.
The first attempt at having it brake failed. So, I have a lot to figure out.
I did that 8 times. (The brakes require 3 sections of housing), plus the shift housing. In my Aerobee thread someone asked what tool I used to crimp. It’s an old cheap housing cutter that doesn’t cut housing well, but the round jaws make good crimpers.
The ferrel I’m using at the back of the shift body is slightly bigger than the original.
So a quick drill, and there we go.
I mounted it all together and here is how it routes. I’m using a extra long Tandem brake cable to ensure I have enough length. I used two pulleys on the seat tube to get the cable from the top of the bike to the bottom as clean as possible.
The first attempt at having it brake failed. So, I have a lot to figure out.
First, all that work I did on the spring in the front, and making an extended ferrel, that was wrong. So I broke and cleaned the ferrel and used it normal size. I think the spring is used on the inside in front of the knurdle. I’ll get that figured out. But first, when I pull the brake lever, the actuating arm on the caliper doesn’t have enough strength in the spring to pull the cable back to reset. So I pulled the arm apart to see what I had in adjustment options.
That second, smaller, spring hike may be the answer? But I’d have to drill it out to accept the spring. And if I do, the arm will hit the adjustment bracket that sticks out slightly.
Before I modify anything, I’d like opinions. @Chad T I’m looking at you! Or whoever has an idea. I need the spring to more forcefully pull that brake cable back to the caliper so it just doesn’t fall out of the brake lever every time I pull it.
That second, smaller, spring hike may be the answer? But I’d have to drill it out to accept the spring. And if I do, the arm will hit the adjustment bracket that sticks out slightly.
Before I modify anything, I’d like opinions. @Chad T I’m looking at you! Or whoever has an idea. I need the spring to more forcefully pull that brake cable back to the caliper so it just doesn’t fall out of the brake lever every time I pull it.
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