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This is such a cool build. Very involved customizing and resto work. And you're so detail oriented that this bike is going to be stellar. Looking forward to more progress as it comes!
 
I forgot to get a pic of my recreated brace before we slapped it on. But, if you look at the brace I bought you can see that I just essentially traced the pattern, then I kicked one of the legs out to reach the seat tube. Cut it out, smoothed it out, drilled out the holes, then tacked it all in place and checked the fit. It allows adjustment of the caliper, so it's set. For those of you wondering, I cannot weld. But I run a trailer manufacturing plant, so I have lots of welders working for me. Anyway, while playing around with it, the disc has a very slight wobble in one spot. Not a big deal, but I want to close the distance of the pads so that the caliper will engage the disc sooner, with less pull. So I may try to straighten that out. If not, there will just be more play. I'm just concerned with how it will work for the drag brake.

brace.jpg
 
I forgot to get a pic of my recreated brace before we slapped it on. But, if you look at the brace I bought you can see that I just essentially traced the pattern, then I kicked one of the legs out to reach the seat tube. Cut it out, smoothed it out, drilled out the holes, then tacked it all in place and checked the fit. It allows adjustment of the caliper, so it's set. For those of you wondering, I cannot weld. But I run a trailer manufacturing plant, so I have lots of welders working for me. Anyway, while playing around with it, the disc has a very slight wobble in one spot. Not a big deal, but I want to close the distance of the pads so that the caliper will engage the disc sooner, with less pull. So I may try to straighten that out. If not, there will just be more play. I'm just concerned with how it will work for the drag brake.

View attachment 211803
You can straighten just about any kink in a rotor. They actually make special park tools for it but you can do the same thing with wide duck bill vise grips
 
The Huffy Super Stock originally came with a 24x1.75" rear tire. So mounting a 24x2.125" Jerald Slick provides some clearance issues. With the stock fender mounting tab, it holds the rear fender too close to the tire.

tab1.jpeg


So I cut the bugger off.
Tab1.jpg


This allows more fender clearance, and I can still use the stock rear fender.
Tab2.jpg


But the stock new fender needs a mounting tab. But first... that giant hole in the cross brace was needed to mount the rear brake. Since this bike now has a disc brace, the hole would only annoy me. So, we plugged it.
Tab3.jpg


We also closed it all up. I didn't show it, but it was only held in place with some brazing on the top. It was open on the bottom. Now it's go welds around the full tube. So I cleaned it up with a dremel and sand paper.
Tab4.jpg


Cut out a little tab and tacked it on
Tab5.jpg


Cleaned it up, ground it down, drilled a mounting hole, and tapped it.
Tab6.jpg



It's going to need some body filler to really smooth out that area, but it's a good start. Before I apply filler, I have other modifications that need done. The parts should be here today.
 
I’ve gone through about 6 sessions of sanding then reapplying bondo in little spot that will bother no one but me. After these pictures I shot etch primer. I’m sure that will reveal more little issues I’ll work on before I mock it up. But for now I’m going to set it aside to work on other projects.

44024A5B-B74E-41FC-8D23-3E0897F18DAE.jpeg


3EF33482-6C04-414E-A1AA-0B2CB7E0074C.jpeg


88449BDD-E8C8-4A16-8F1B-E9FCFBFC6672.jpeg
 
This is what I love about rat rod bikes. Everyone coming together to make something happen for each other. Broken shifter? This guy has the hook up on chrome, another guy can 3d print the plastic piece, another guy has the factory diagram of how it goes together, another guy has a spring on one in his parts pile. And between 6 guys and a little luck it goes together and works. And when it doesn't work we make it work.
 

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