Super Fueler

[Son of Kradus]

and its not called a hammer, in australia its called a "Molecular Displacement Tool" LOL, wow the depth and detail of your part restoration is 2nd to none! Loved the way you meticulously repaired those parts over months and months only to be rectified by the hamme....sorry Molecular Displacement Tool.

 

[Chad T]

Before I modify anything, I’d like opinions. @Chad T I’m looking at you! Or whoever has an idea.

The guy who knows a lot about this stuff is @OddJob. Looks to me like the arm on the caliper should be pulled more when it's at rest but hard to tell what's going on in the pic there. Is the caliper adjusted so the pads are almost touching the disc?

 

[CRASH]

The guy who knows a lot about this stuff is @OddJob. Looks to me like the arm on the caliper should be pulled more when it's at rest but hard to tell what's going on in the pic there. Is the caliper adjusted so the pads are almost touching the disc?

Yes. I trued the disc like you said, then adjusted the pads close so there wouldn't be as much pull length needed. That works, I think. The problem is that the arm isn't forcefully pulling back on the cable, so when I let go of the pressure on the handle, the whole thing goes slack.

 

[OddJob]

I don't have a lathe, but I like that second idea. I'll give that a try tonight. I'll also pick up some silver paint. Or maybe I should try one of those chrome paint pens I see advertised. hmmmm

Both @Dr. Tankenstein and @kingfish254 both are big fans of the chrome paint pens.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Yes. I trued the disc like you said, then adjusted the pads close so there wouldn't be as much pull length needed. That works, I think. The problem is that the arm isn't forcefully pulling back on the cable, so when I let go of the pressure on the handle, the whole thing goes slack.

Try doubling up the spring. Get another one and interweave them. You'll have to make the holes considerably larger

They used to do that for old school Avid mechanical discs

May be TOO strong but at least a cheap shot to try

 

[OddJob]

@CRASH , if we could see a wider look at the brake caliper set up it might help.
Wben you have the cable through the housing stop on the caliper, and pull all the slack out of the cable, then push forward on the caliper arm that the cable is passing through, there should be resistance, spring tension.

I'm not home currently, but later Sat I could shoot a short vid of how I set them up if that's helpful.

 

[CRASH]

@CRASH , if we could see a wider look at the brake caliper set up it might help.
Wben you have the cable through the housing stop on the caliper, and pull all the slack out of the cable, then push forward on the caliper arm that the cable is passing through, there should be resistance, spring tension.

I'm not home currently, but later Sat I could shoot a short vid of how I set them up if that's helpful.

That would be! I won't be able to touch it till Saturday morning.

 

[CRASH]

My LBS suggested trying to CAREFULLY add a winding to the spring when I re-install the arm. God help me!

Edit: a second bike shop suggested drilling a hole opposite the original so I’d only have to wind it 180 degrees. He really didn’t think the spring would survive a full 360 degree wind.

 

[OddJob]

Here's my vid @CRASH . At tbe end I mention trying to 'wind ' tbe springas I see tbe other bike shop guys did above. ^^ I believe if its set in correctly,you should only have to do a 180° wind.

Anyway, a few tips and tricks included in this disc brake vid.

 

[CRASH]

Awesome! Great video @OddJob ! Super helpful! Ill
report on results tonight.

 

[CRASH]

I got the spring set. Even 180 was too much, so I set it to 90 degrees off and it’s a strong pull. But while I was installing the cable a strong caught and ruined it. So I’ll have to get another one in the morning.

 

[CRASH]

When I tested the spring I realized the extra spring strength was giving a bit of a push against the internal pad, and I couldn’t adjust the caliper towards the outside anymore. It’s just maxed out due to the thickness of the brace. So… I’m going to cut it in half.

You can’t see the marker due to the shadow, but it’s there.

I’m trying a tool I’ve never used. A cutting wheel on my harbor freight dremel tool.

So here we go…

And we now pause for 49ers football!

 

[CRASH]

Got the mount cut in half and shaped and smoothed.

I made some slight modifications to the mounting bracket. It’s allow, and was painted black, so the black was ruined. I went ahead and sanded off the black and polished it. It’s a muscle bike, after all. It’s hard to see because of the bare metal of the mount. Those black mounting bolts are going to get the same treatment. It’ll stand out well when the paint is on the frame and the wheel gets its color.

I’m going to have to check the end of the bolts. Now they stick out the back.

 

[CRASH]

So the spring is resolved. It’s got enough pull to get that cable back. But, like @Chad T said, this is a MTB caliper and requires more pull. So, when I full pull the brake lever, it barely engages the brake. It needs another inch of movement. So I can get V-brake levers to try that out. But I have a question for @Chad T : even if I get the lever, will the drag brake not work? Do you think I should get a road caliper?

 

[CRASH]

This one says it’s MTB and Road. So am I guessing that it’ll have the same long pull that I already have?

eBay item: 175085604341

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I dunno what information you can get from the ad, but the difference is measurable

 

[OddJob]

Yes, you absolutely need the disc brake compatible lever, @CRASH . It's not even the same as the V-brake / linear pull brake lever. Sorry I forgot to mention that in my video. That should have been my final comment.

The Avid levers, like the one @MattiThundrrr showed, are available and work well with all the cable disc calipers I have ever used.

You may want shorter bolts for your caliper adapter. It's hard to tell in the closeups, and without a wheel in there, to say for sure. I always mount my caliper with the wheel already in place, tire and all, so I know exactly where it has to sit and line up.

 

[CRASH]

Like this

Both are advertised as “Mechanical Disc Brake” levers

 

[OddJob]

I would trust the Origin 8 ones, don't know the others. This pair of Avid FR5 levers on Amazon only $15, good price.

 

[CRASH]

ok, I put a set of the Avids on order.