Thank you. I have a murry frame that I’d like to do someday as a five speedIt's not too awfully much. Off the top of my head I think it's about 1/2".
Thank you. I have a murry frame that I’d like to do someday as a five speedIt's not too awfully much. Off the top of my head I think it's about 1/2".
I took a little trip down to @CRASH 's muscle bike restoration emporium today to pick up some parts. We did a little surgery on the Dragster while I was there. First up was to use his cool frame spreading tool to open up the rear triangle to fit the 5 speed hub. It was just a little too narrow.
View attachment 279100View attachment 279101View attachment 279102
A little shove here, a tweak there and it's now a good fit.
View attachment 279103View attachment 279104View attachment 279105
Next up was to repair the bent dropout
View attachment 279117
Then align the dropouts
View attachment 279114View attachment 279115
And fit the Huret derailleur
View attachment 279118
Much quicker at Crash's shop than I would have been able to do at home. I think it took all of 20 minutes. Thanks Crash!
If you want to thank me, crop out my flip-flop feet.Thanks Crash!
Me tooIf you want to thank me, crop out my flip-flop feet.
What pedals are you using. I’m thinking of doing this on my Barbie buildI also picked up another project while I was there. It's a complete and really nice Murray Astro-Flight that Crash had started to restore years ago and lost interest in it. It's a fantastic project and I can't wait to dig in. But it's a big project and I won't have time for it for this build off. Maybe next year if we do step-thru again or for the main build off.
View attachment 279119View attachment 279120
And when I got home these were waiting in the mailbox for a pedal project I'm going to do that may wind up on the Dragster
View attachment 279121
Yep, that all makes perfect sense, thanks for the detailed info. I'll take all that stuff when I go visit my dad and we can get it all tacked up and I'll finish weld it at home with my good welder. I'm going to weld in a brace to mount the brake and fender to as well. But I'll work on that after.Once you have the fork legs with the same bend…
The farther up you pull those legs up through the base plate, the more horizontal you’ll get the bottom of the legs to the ground. I suggest installing the rear wheel with tire, and bolt on the front wheel with tire to achieve the look you want, using the front wheel, you can tweak it to ensure it’s straight. Fully install the headset with the base plate and the top plate and the lock nut to get it all together. Use the front wheel, and the top plate aligned to the bottom plate to get the forks in just the right position. Once it’s there, hold the legs tight and tack it to the base plate. The forks may have slightly different lengths at the top. That’s ok. What’s important is wheel alignment in both the roll and yaw axis while having the top and bottom plate even with each other. You can always grind the top of a tube to match the other… which you’ll probably have to do.
Hope that makes sense
What pedals are you using. I’m thinking of doing this on my Barbie build
I used these in my last build. Nice that they come apart. I subbed out vintage white pads for what it came with. Gonna look fantastic!View attachment 279597
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394893668890
Crash goes through how he does them in his Midnight Flash build, post 57
https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/midnight-flash.119743/page-3#post-1280831
16mm dice, spacers are about 1/8"
What are you using to weld them?? I’m assuming they are steel so mig.Once you have the fork legs with the same bend…
The farther up you pull those legs up through the base plate, the more horizontal you’ll get the bottom of the legs to the ground. I suggest installing the rear wheel with tire, and bolt on the front wheel with tire to achieve the look you want, using the front wheel, you can tweak it to ensure it’s straight. Fully install the headset with the base plate and the top plate and the lock nut to get it all together. Use the front wheel, and the top plate aligned to the bottom plate to get the forks in just the right position. Once it’s there, hold the legs tight and tack it to the base plate. The forks may have slightly different lengths at the top. That’s ok. What’s important is wheel alignment in both the roll and yaw axis while having the top and bottom plate even with each other. You can always grind the top of a tube to match the other… which you’ll probably have to do.
Hope that makes sense
Yep, MigWhat are you using to weld them?? I’m assuming they are steel so mig.
Then chrome or paint.Yep, Mig
Enter your email address to join: