TRADITIONAL 🅵🅾🅾🅻🅸🅶🅰🅽 - 1930s Elgin Oriole - 2nd Place (Tie) - BUILD JOURNAL

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Searched TRM’s Blackbird thread to see how he dealt with those tires. He cut the inside of the stays and had his cousin weld in plates. Have seen folks pinch the inside of the stays. Maybe a little pinch and some spreading?

Awesome stance you got going. Try to set it up so that front tire can’t contact the inside of the fork. Surprise front wheel lock never ends well.
 
I have boxes of little trinkets like that wife rolls her eyes knows full and we'll what I'm thinking of when I buy them

Been sitting on one of these for years (among other things)... just waiting for the moment 🤣🤣🤣

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Searched TRM’s Blackbird thread to see how he dealt with those tires. He cut the inside of the stays and had his cousin weld in plates. Have seen folks pinch the inside of the stays. Maybe a little pinch and some spreading?

Awesome stance you got going. Try to set it up so that front tire can’t contact the inside of the fork. Surprise front wheel lock never ends well.

I looked at TRMs solution this morning. I would rather not cut and weld unless I have to.
Ever since flying over the handlebars on SteamRoller with the Girvin fork, I am keenly aware of making sure the front tires not only clears the fork at rest, but more importantly does it clear under compressed load from a bump. :D
 
I looked at TRMs solution this morning. I would rather not cut and weld unless I have to.
Ever since flying over the handlebars on SteamRoller with the Girvin fork, I am keenly aware of making sure the front tires not only clears the fork at rest, but more importantly does it clear under compressed load from a bump. :D
Those spring forks can mess you up.
 
No changes, just wanted my current state image on this page so that I don't have to go back one to see it and contemplate.

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I never get tired of those tires! Looks so brawny! I'm glad the Evanaction didn't work, I liked the beehive better from the start.

The narrow rims like @Bike from the Dead suggested might give you enough.

The Blackbird frame was probably more narrow than yours. I also used narrow wheels on it.
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Still have to work out the rear clearance. I slid the wheel back as far as I could in the drops and if the wheel was perfectly true it bareky cleared. But that was with less than 20psi. Once I pumped up the tires to 35psi the wheel wouldn't roll. These pics are with the tires pumped up.

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Looks like a good reason to make up some kind of rear beehive springer!:thumbsup:

I looked at the big front tire on your beehive. Do the stops on the flanges keep the tire from contacting the spring base?
 
Looks like a good reason to make up some kind of rear beehive springer!:thumbsup:


Interesting option! I haven't done that since BO7 with Flexy

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Perhaps @GuitarlCarl 's stay crimper method would work to give you just a smidge more room for 35 psi in the rear tire. I like how it's packed up inside like it is. It has a great stance, and with that seat tube bent like it is, it appears that it was designed to fit a fatty in there! And as you always say, MO FATT MO BETTA!
 
Dug out this brand new Weinmann wheelset that I got way back as part of the deal I made for the Rollfast Whizzer.

These are 30mm wide compared to the fat 41mm Aerovane wheelset

Aerovane mointed tires are 693cm tall by 68mm wide

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Well, that doesn't solve anything. Same exact width and height.
Shout out to this little Walmart bike tool. The are solid metal tire bars that also have a 15mm wrench and two spoke wrenches. I really had to pry and stretch to get the tire mounted on these black rims and I didn't have to worry bout the tire pry tool breaking. I mainly bought them to have a decent wheel 15mm wrench on rides.

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One advantage of adding something to the dropouts is the ability to alter the geometry of the bike. On mine, I'm lowering the rear to get a more laid back angle and lowering my seat height.
 
Looking good KF. Great frame. Those Murray built frames are really solid, way heavier than say a typical Schwinn frame. I think it would takes some heat to dimple the chain stays
 
I looked at the big front tire on your beehive. Do the stops on the flanges keep the tire from contacting the spring base?

I think it will, but won't know for sure until I can put a proper load on it.

Perhaps @GuitarlCarl 's stay crimper method would work to give you just a smidge more room for 35 psi in the rear tire. I like how it's packed up inside like it is. It has a great stance, and with that seat tube bent like it is, it appears that it was designed to fit a fatty in there! And as you always say, MO FATT MO BETTA!

I normally like about 40psi, but I looked at these tires and they have 30psi max which makes sense as fat and thick as they are.
Still playing with the wheelset, but it is looking like it may take either pinching the chainstays or extending the dropouts

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One advantage of adding something to the dropouts is the ability to alter the geometry of the bike. On mine, I'm lowering the rear to get a more laid back angle and lowering my seat height.

Very true. If I do go the dropout extension route, it will probably be minimal extension. I really like the current stance. I also like how the curve of the wheel flows with the curved seattube. We'll see what happens.
 
I recently saw someone dimpling chain stays using a BMX headset as a tool. The four bolts allow you to really crank down. Might be worth looking into.

Oops stem

That is an interesting method. I can picture it possibly working. Let me know if you find a link to the process they used.
 
Very true. If I do go the dropout extension route, it will probably be minimal extension. I really like the current stance. I also like how the curve of the wheel flows with the curved seattube. We'll see what happens.
An extension that follows the look of the existing dropouts would probably work best on that frame.
 

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