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Need to see both saddles with the bike to make a judgement. Either way, the saddle needs to be consistent with the other parts like grips and/or bar wrap, etc.
Just like shoes and belts with a suit.
 
Meh… not going as I hoped.

Time is on my side…. Looking to make maroon cable housings with dye….

We’ll see what these look like on Wednesday. They’ve been in for about an hour or two
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On another note: I will be tackling the BB and crank assembly Probably sometime this week.

I’m torn between using the existing chain and being budget conscious or buying a new chain and adding more bling.

everything on this bike is special…. is the chain on this thing unique to Raleigh or can I just buy a single-speed cruiser bike chain and put it on?
 
Jude Ephesus said:
On another note: I will be tackling the BB and crank assembly Probably sometime this week.

I’m torn between using the existing chain and being budget conscious or buying a new chain and adding more bling.

everything on this bike is special…. is the chain on this thing unique to Raleigh or can I just buy a single-speed cruiser bike chain and put it on?
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Single speed chainrings can be either 3/32 or 1/8". The chain should be compatible or it won't work well. Sometimes 1/8" cbain will appear to work with a 3/32 toothed ring, but it will skip and can eject when under load; the worst possible time to have it happen.
 
OddJob said:
Single speed chainrings can be either 3/32 or 1/8". The chain should be compatible or it won't work well. Sometimes 1/8" cbain will appear to work with a 3/32 toothed ring, but it will skip and can eject when under load; the worst possible time to have it happen.
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Thanks OJ! How do I know what was on it?
 
So it could be either one then. If you are changing to a single cog, like a bmx freewheel cog in the rear, the cog will declare what chain should be used.

If you already have the chainring you will use, but not the cog, get a chain that pairs with the ring,and then match the cog to the chain.
 
Jude, does the chain have any rusted links? I had one break a couple of years ago and was lucky not to come off the bike. It had very minor rust on a few links.
 
Jude Ephesus said:
View attachment 239053
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My parents bought me that exact same headlight and fork mounted generator that went with it, and the little tail lamp too.

That was one of my first wiring projects. I was about nine years old. That would’ve been 1963.

The thing is, I can remember putting it on and tightening the wires. I remember using the generator and adjusting the little screws and it came loose.

But I don’t ever remember taking it off the bike. Maybe it got smashed when we moved to Minnesota from Arizona, but I just don’t remember what became of that headlamp.

The other thing is, I don’t remember riding my bicycle at night. When the sun got low it was time to go home and watch the TV and have dinner.
 
JA331 said:
Jude, does the chain have any rusted links? I had one break a couple of years ago and was lucky not to come off the bike. It had very minor rust on a few links.
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I’ve actually got a number of chains with all these spare bikes I picked up. The chain that was on this had some very slig surface rust, but really seems fine…. I was just thinking something with some bling would be cool.

OddJob said:
So it could be either one then. If you are changing to a single cog, like a bmx freewheel cog in the rear, the cog will declare what chain should be used.

If you already have the chainring you will use, but not the cog, get a chain that pairs with the ring,and then match the cog to the chain.
Click to expand...
Thanks OJ: I’m just putting the chainring and Sturmy Archer rear hub that was on the bike back on…. The rear hub is a ‘73.

Ulu said:
My parents bought me that exact same headlight and fork mounted generator that went with it, and the little tail lamp too.

That was one of my first wiring projects. I was about nine years old. That would’ve been 1963.

The thing is, I can remember putting it on and tightening the wires. I remember using the generator and adjusting the little screws and it came loose.

But I don’t ever remember taking it off the bike. Maybe it got smashed when we moved to Minnesota from Arizona, but I just don’t remember what became of that headlamp.

The other thing is, I don’t remember riding my bicycle at night. When the sun got low it was time to go home and watch the TV and have dinner.
Click to expand...
Great story! I have used good lights up north here for a few weeks after daylight savings….

I know this thing was a part of a much bigger system: it still has a lamp and wires in it. I think it would be easier to just convert to LED and battery.
 
The bad news; the proper rat rod continues to fight me at every turn!!!!

I got the spindle in, and it’s GOOD.
71A442C7-9F45-4CB8-92C6-45B8603DA731.jpeg


2C7D0ABB-1B92-4BBF-B047-49824CE73A3B.jpeg

Unfortunately, it’s not PERFECT:

It seems the super cool caged bearings that were in there???? Well….as they are very easy to work with, regardless of how tight I get the BB cups, there is a slight amount of play between the spindle and the BB cups.

I could finish it as is, but I’d really like the thing perfect

-I can pull loose ball bearings out of the blue bike and reinstall in the PRR, although that’s a job I’ve never done before and am not particularly looking forward to it!
 
And the brakes….. I’ve been battling with these things since I saw the rear cable looked like a duct tape disaster, then, understood it looked like that because, each end of the brake cable needs a special tool to modify in any way, shape or form!

I managed to cobble some pieces together, including an attempt at dying the cable housings…. But, I’m still not feeling a warm fuzzy on these

My housings are closer to purple than maroon!!! :mad:
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The goal here is perfectly functional, clean, sharp brakes and cables.

I do not want them to detract from the rest of the bike in an way.

I may just fleece this Murray of all its brake parts, as-is and call it done.

The neutral green/brown may be just perfect.
BBE78791-8C1C-44FB-94EB-242F9432EBFC.jpeg
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B3CD35A6-074B-46D5-92C0-4367242D3C83.jpeg
AE53DB9F-8A42-4614-A734-035EED7A8CE9.jpeg
 
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Jude Ephesus said:
The bad news; the proper rat rod continues to fight me at every turn!!!!

I got the spindle in, and it’s GOOD.
View attachment 239755

View attachment 239756
Unfortunately, it’s not PERFECT:

It seems the super cool caged bearings that were in there???? Well….as they are very easy to work with, regardless of how tight I get the BB cups, there is a slight amount of play between the spindle and the BB cups.

I could finish it as is, but I’d really like the thing perfect

-I can pull loose ball bearings out of the blue bike and reinstall in the PRR, although that’s a job I’ve never done before and am not particularly looking forward to it!
Click to expand...
Raliegh has odd sized bottom bracket you change the the spindle you change bearing size or original is the best way to go.
 
ingola said:
Raliegh has odd sized bottom bracket you change the the spindle you change bearing size or original is the best way to go.
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Thanks Ingola: I’m guessing the aftermarket spindle that was in there worked with the caged bearings that were in there as well, but I never really rode the bike, so I can’t say for sure.

I had mixed an original Raleigh spindle with what I’m guessing was an aftermarket caged bearing set.

ive got the ball bearings out of the blue bike, but they are a little on the rough side. I have them soaking in rust solution now.

I may just buy new 1/4” bearings?
 
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