Bad Mechanics Files or How Not To

[rickpaulos]

I had a thread going on the sbf (before it got hacked) on some really bad bike repairs.

A new find. It almost worked. The guy said the pedal kept locking up as the outer nut would turn in while pedaling. A lock nut might have solved that problem. Cool is the guy used 2 hub cones pointed into the stripped out crank so the hub axle was centered. Well 3/8" hub axles aren't as thick as 9/16" pedal axles so pedaling hard would just bend it. No bearings. Most pedals don't have them anyhow. So many cheap box mart bike pedals are just plastic directly on the pedal shafts.

 

[Da Gas Man]

Sometimes I just stop and wonder, sure I can do this. But... why? Then I look at this piece
of mechanical artwork and think out loud, "Yes! THIS is why! DO IT! Conscience be darned!
Because I CAN, THAT'S WHY!!!" Some kid somewhere is saying, "Thanks Dad. You're the best."
and scratching round circles into the paint of parked cars with that threaded rod sticking out.

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

wow.

 

[rickpaulos]

On a bottom feeder Pacific. Bridge ripped apart. Why? Who knows. Trying to fit a larger wheel? The bridge serves a purpose. Keeps both legs moving up an down in sync to keep the wheel straight up. Holds the brakes in place. This one would allow the brakes to turn away from or in to the wheel. Would the wheel axle alone do all that?

 

[RustySprockets]

Who needs a brake bridge when you haven't had brakes for a long time?

 

[rickpaulos]

Seat post too small, no problem. Just add nails.

 

[68z27]

Now why didn't I think of that!

 

[rickpaulos]

 

[Chuy]

I’ll burn myself on this thread!
On my’98’Dale I added a threaded to threadless stem adapter so I can run a modern stem. At first it was fine but then after a few long rides I realized the stem/bars sat too low. So instead of buying the correct stem I improvised with what I had on hand.
Stem adapter + stem riser

The problem was the stem adapter top cap needed to be grinded down since I don’t have an extra extra long wedge bolt. Also the stem adapter needed to slip over it.
Did what I had to do to make it work.

Feel free to judge me. I face palm myself every time I see how ugly it looks BUT it’s still my most comfortable bike and great for long rides.
Before:

After

 

[rickpaulos]

Digging through some old parts bins today, I found a pair of my old racing cranks. Cracked. Best reason to clean your own bikes on a regular basis is to find cracks before they send you to the emergency room. Cranks retired 30 years ago. I know several people who broke cranks off and it was never good.

Savedra brand, Argentine made Campy copy. Pretty light weight.

 

[rickpaulos]

How not to install a fender.

 

[us56456712]

I had a thread going on the sbf (before it got hacked) on some really bad bike repairs.

A new find. It almost worked. The guy said the pedal kept locking up as the outer nut would turn in while pedaling. A lock nut might have solved that problem. Cool is the guy used 2 hub cones pointed into the stripped out crank so the hub axle was centered. Well 3/8" hub axles aren't as thick as 9/16" pedal axles so pedaling hard would just bend it. No bearings. Most pedals don't have them anyhow. So many cheap box mart bike pedals are just plastic directly on the pedal shafts.

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I’m not sure I follow exactly, but I did this on an 1890s pedal, trying to save and use the original antique equipment. I filled the chipped race with JB Weld.

Then The bearing race was gone so I pored molten plastic from a junk pedal in where then race originally was and put the cracked race into the soft hot
plastic to form a new race.

The bolt slack adjusting stop washer was missing so I had to make one, otherwise the pedal kept falling off as I rode.

The dust cap was gone so I tinned a copper plumbing cap and used that as a new dust cap.

Works. To re build or grease the pedal I’d have to melt in a new race. The inner race with ball bearings is still used.