Coasterbrake hub builds

[BartRidesEternal]

For that style of intricate pattern, I'd suggest that frisket paper is superior to common masking tape. Find it in art supply stores. It's likely to eliminate any pesky bleed-through and deliver crisp edges.

Thank you for that tip, I will search for that in our local paint shop.

a shaft drive bicycle is on my bucket list.

BRIKbikes, Beixo, and Biomega are brands that work with a shaft.
There are several cheap mountainbikes for sale second hand with these shaft drives:

Nexus 3 hub.

These could be very cool klunkers!



My 'BRIK' front sprocket came in and at first glance I thought they are not compatible.
But when I pushed them together and found the right angle (like a chainstay that goes outwards to the rear) it fits perfectly!

Now I gotta find the standard for the splines so I can machine a shaft. After designing the whole BB offcourse.

19mm outside diameter of the splines.

About 17.3mm inside diameter of splines.

25mm bearing.

Number of teeth.




Excuse me if this is a little offtopic, but its just so cool and not a full on project just yet to make a new topic about it.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

So I calculated the gear ratio.

25 teeth / 11 teeth = 2,27.
Then you have the shaft rotating 2,27 times faster than the BB shaft or cranks.
22 teeth / 26 teeth - 0,84.

This is a total of 2,27x0,84 = 1,9068.

To get an idea how that rides, I used my BO18 bike as a reference:
26x3.0" wheels and tires.
44 teeth front chainring and a 20 teeth rear sprocket.

44t / 20t = 2,2.

If I apply the "shaft drive" gear ratio to the example bike's front chainring:

44t / 1,9068 = 23,07.

So this shaft drive will ride similar to a:
26x3.0" wheel/tire'd bicycle with a 44t - 23t chain drive.

That is not bad, although, taking into consideration that the angle is fixed and that FAT tires do not fit on a BRIK bike, I would probably assemble 28 inch wheels with semi-fatty tires. (AFAP: As Fat As Possible)

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi guys,

I have a question:

An old Bendix hub (1946 - 1963) with a steel shell and bronze schoes.
Does it need any lubrication between the brake shoes and shell?
Since my hub was sticking and screaming when braking.
I use the same grease for every hub, works perfectly fine. But these shoes are made of brass instead of steel.

Pictures:

Point 8: Squealing...

The manual says: Light coating of good quality automobile grease.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I rebuilt the hub. Grease for the bearings and oil for the brake shoes (oil doesn't stick).
It brakes fine. Adjusted well. I don't like to kill a pig everytime I brake

 

[twojs.bike]

I use high temp grease on the brake shoes. But I am certainly not an expert. Probably learned that on YouTube.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I'm all over the place with my projects again
I felt inspired and started concept modelling a heatsink, flanges and arm for a Shimano CB-E110 hub. Almost all aluminum.

Not finished yet and needs a little reflection in regards to machineability versus clamping, but happy how these high flange modifications look.

Picture above: Assembled. No brake arm and screws are missing.

Picture above: Exploded view.

Picture above: Steel anchor plate with a 44mm pcd. An aluminum brake arm can be mounted there. I'm not confident an aluminum brake arm directly on the toothed CB-E110 anchor is strong enough.

Features:
-Screwed high flanges with 36 or less holes. Reason for screwing (instead of removing the original flanges and pressing the new ones on there) is ease of assembly and less chances of mistakes.
-Heatsink, two pieces. Milled and clamped on the hub with the fins + screws and threaded bushes.
-Ability to change spokes when assembled.

I could make the Heatsink with the fins since its already a piece of aluminum...

I'm playing with the idea of anodising the aluminum parts (blue, purple or red) and selling a few sets like Mone cycles.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Day 2, changed a few things.
I will build a prototype hub first, so I'm keeping it practical, affordable and fun.

What changed?

• Central aluminum (blue model) heatsink changed to a stock available material. Unfortunately less heatsinky, but still aluminum which I can anodize.
• Cut material from the steel anchor plate. (Dark blue in the model now).
• Aluminum coasterbrake arm, first concept done!
• Hub flanges outer diameter is now 90mm. Pretty large. I might change that to a smaller size.
• Cooling fins attachments now closer to the shell.

With the left hub flange hidden.

Left view.

Anchor plate made visible with red lines.

Section view with cooling fins and attachment visible.

Pretty large flanges. I might change that a little since you can attach the cooling fins after lacing.




Feel free to comment or criticize

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Almost ready to order some materials! Updates:

• I made the flanges a bit smaller and made a few 'aesthetical' concepts. Personally I like concept 2.
• Central fins are larger now, more cooling.

I am aware this is not a full-on efficient, streamlined cooling design, but more a way of having fun and adding weight (I like to torture myself on the trails)
The main focus on this build is a cheap first concept and improve the design after use.
Lets break that down:

1. Screws to clamp the fins are stock.
2. Threaded bushes that are used for clamping are stock.
3. All parts can be lasercut or cut with a waterjet. The spoke flanges need extra machining afterwards.
4. Aluminium parts can be anodised for aesthetic purposes.

Flange concept 1.

Flange concept 2.


This is how its done:

Updated total 3D view.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Update: (sorry, I do not give anyone time to react )
Flange concept2 is the one I am going for in the prototype.
I ordered base materials and asked for pricing regarding the lasercut parts.

In total four prototypes for four CBE-110 hubs. I know a few people that might be interested.
Plus there is a vintage mountainbike fair the 15th of December, I hope to finish and showcase a few hubs by then

I will try and get parts to be anodized in various colours.