Coasterbrake hub builds

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Reminds me of slot car racing days. We used heat sinks to dissipate heat from the resistor. Bart, your Hub/brake is a work of art.
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I had a Cox controller similar to that, but we never had that kind of tech in 1964.

I had a 1/24 scale Cox open wheel Ferrarri. It was so small, I was able to modify the pickup assembly to run on 1/32 scale tracks. It just toasted the 1/32 scale cars.

I’ve got some crazy heat sinks stripped out of old computers. I never throw aluminum away unless it’s just trashed.
 
I found some more CB-E110 hubs since people tend to throw bicycles away with a rusty chain.

I disassembled a hub. Looks perfectly fine! No wear whatsoever. Just some surface rust on the shell.

I decided to have fun with this one as well!

I removed the hub flanges with a press (fairly easy).

I want to press on some aluminium or steel hub flanges I modeled and cut.
Have to admit, the flange geometry idea/inspiration came from the "Mone cycles" version of the Shimano coasterbrake hub.

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9 speedholes.

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18 speedholes.


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Mone cycles hub with heatsink.

I am not building a heatsink since the Netherlands is flat!
Update on this hub:
I asked for a quote to waterjet these aluminium flanges, but the price was way higher than expected.
Now I'm using leftover 6061 or 7075 aluminum from the bin and will fabricate these in the machine:

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You are welcome to use this drawing, its not the tidiest. But wait till I tried press-fitting the flanges first.
There is a step after this:
Countersinking the spoke holes, remove material around the spoke holes, deburring and a chamfer on the flange outer edges.
I have a good reason to not fully finish this drawing 😉
 
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Do you have access to a CNC mill, or some kind of indexing head?
Yes is the answer:
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Edit:
Left to do is chamfer/countersunk spoke holes and narrow down the flange around the spoke holes to 3mm, before or after pressing the flanges on the hub with a locking agent.

Maybe a surface treatment like a powdercoat, not decided yet.
 
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I took a 13g spoke with me and countersunk all the holes.
Then I pressed the flanges on with loctite 602.

There was a little wobble in the flanges, so I cleared the holes again and removed a little bit of material in the lathe.
Double checked the spoke holes and even tried some polishing.

Not sure if I will coat the hub but this is the result so far!

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Thanks for watching!
 
I’m suffering an acute attack of machine shop jealousy right now. I used to do all this stuff in the hobby shop at the Air Force Base, but now I’m in the situation with no machine tools available.

Edit…I never built a hub, btw, but I did build things like custom shifters and daggers and special pulleys so I could make high speed tape recordings back in the reel-to-reel days.
 
Thanks a lot guys! Its kinda busy with two kids now, but everyone will have to get used to the Chopper.... ehh to the baby :grin:

Moeder is doing great and really taking good care of Thura. I am taking care of our two year old daughter most of the time now.
During the "kraamweek" we had help from a "kraamverzorgster". A nice lady that helps with the baby's and moms health (checking weight, temperature and milk intake) and with some chores around the house. This is normal in the Netherlands where you get help for a week.
Unfortunately I could not convince the lady to make a mockup with the chopper frame :bigsmile:
I'll make a thread soon.

Is this also common in the US or Canada? Where you get this kind of help the first week?

I did have some time to look for junk on the interwebs and found some hubs for 2 euros. They are from kids bikes, but almost new!
One is a 28 hole 1985 F&S Torpedo hub.

The other a F&S replica by Romet with less holes (I think a Polish buildoff participant mentioned this brand of hub/bike).
I ordered two extra hub flanges for this hub, so its 36 hole too! I can bolt or rivet the flanges or that hub.

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And I could not resist buying a 50's US wheelset with bendix hub: (Uncommon in the Netherlands)
Bought it from "bikestoremember.nl". They have some "New Departure model D's" with skip tooth as well. Including complete wheelsets.


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I don't know for which build I will use this set, maybe I will take a bike apart and build something new.
Thinking to take apart my green Electra RS Klunker and put this set on the frame and store it for a future buildoff....
Use the 26 inch Klunker wheelset for the chopper....
Also toying with the idea of throwing the chopper in the yard (with grease inside the frame) for a rat build. The frame is almost the same as the Nirve Cannibal/Switchblade.


In the coming months I will have time for a mockup and rearreangement of parts/bikes.

Thanks again!
This is terriffic, sir. Thoughts of buying ready-made flanges were never imagined or enjoyed here. Wher... I say, WHERE might such to be found? With a few in my grimy hands, I could potentially swap existing hub flanges to match higher spoke-count rims. Si?
 
I’m suffering an acute attack of machine shop jealousy right now. I used to do all this stuff in the hobby shop at the Air Force Base, but now I’m in the situation with no machine tools available.

Edit…I never built a hub, btw, but I did build things like custom shifters and daggers and special pulleys so I could make high speed tape recordings back in the reel-to-reel days.
Thank Ulu, I love machine shop work too!

This is terriffic, sir. Thoughts of buying ready-made flanges were never imagined or enjoyed here. Wher... I say, WHERE might such to be found? With a few in my grimy hands, I could potentially swap existing hub flanges to match higher spoke-count rims. Si?
Thank you! I am happy to make an STEP file or DXF file so you guys can contact your own lasercutter or waterjet supplier.
Don't know if such a file can be dropped here on RRB though.
 
Hi guys, I contacted a framebuilder in the Netherlands and the guy was able to solder the hub and flanges.

I'll do the finishing touches since he only soldered it.
Next:
Round and finish the rough soldering in the lathe and turn the fittings for the bearings. Plus: overall finish, you can still see the grooves from the lasercutting.

Enjoy the pics:

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I can't colour coat this beauty, needs a clear coat!
 
I wonder if a rock-tumbling type operation would polish-up the rougher edges, (or might ruin it?).
Good question, there are pearl-blasting operations with a similar effect aswell. I don't have the answer unfortunately.

It could be polished in a vibratory tumbler like spent brass. It’s not to big to hand polish on the lathe though. So far I haven’t tried the vibratory tumbler on any bicycle parts.
Again; good question, will ask around and consider it.

I pressed the modified CB-E110 shell in with grease! Went perfect. The teeth grabbed perfectly!

The machining in this state is a bit of a challenge with the flanges. But taking it easy with lots of cooling fluid I managed to turn the first bearing fitting. Drive side.

Special thanks to break time and my employer!

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Pressing the shell in. Grease on both sides. Don't want it to get stuck by rust over time.

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Clamping in the lathe and centering with a special tool/bush.

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Drive side done!

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Detail drive side. See the CB-E110 flange teeth in the CrMo shell? Perfectly pressed if I say so myself.
 
Hi guys!

I machined the brake side bearing fitting and did a little sanding. Not done yet, but already looks pretty neat!

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Anchor plate drawing. Normally this is the key pattern you see on the coasterbrake arm. Now I'll utilize it as a spacer.
The tiny holes will get bigger, I like to have options. In the end, that is where the arm will be mounted against.

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Thank for taking a look!
 

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So I haven't worked on the custom hub that much anymore. But its still here and I will finish it someday.

I found two 'relatively' cheap hubs I could not resist not to buy. The guys in that same shop have more of these hubs and Skiptooths.
But I gotta show you these:

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1940/1941 New Departure model D. I had to peek inside:

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Funny or confusing: I thought the slotted sprockets held with a spring ring only appeared in the 60's / 70's???
Still, the driver fits perfectly.

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Genius with the plates.
The slotted plates are locked in the hub shell. Between that are bronze plates. The driver and cone compress the plates when backpedaling.
I can't describe the smell of that old grease in words... :heart:

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The hub and its bearing races are in great shape!


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JC Higgins on the right!

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Which date is the J.C. Higgins hub? The seller advertised around the 50's.


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From left to right:
-1940/41 New Departure model D
-1946 Canadian Bendix no band. Unused and brand new.
-1952 Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo.
-50's? J.C. Higgins.
 
I have an early Bendix hub also. I've read where Bendix began making coaster hubs in 46. Is there a way to know the year the Bendix was made? Number code?
I read that these 'no-band' Bendix hubs were made between 1946 and 1963, but I can't find the piece I read again unfortunately.

I am very interested in the J.C. Higgins rear hub. That thing is a beauty.

And I'm so intrigued and confused by the 1940/41 New Departure model D hub with the 3 tab sprocket.

Does anyone know when these 3 tab sprocket came into production?

Congratulations on your daughter. Children are a blessing.
Thanks Tallbikeman, I think you read the post from 2022, but my kids are still a blessing :thumbsup:
 

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