Colors look great!
Columbia 🐪 CamelBack - ‘21 2n1
- Thread starter MazdaFlyer
- Start date
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Great job on the paint! 
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Hey thanks!!! I should have kept track of my time. One of these time = money pits. But Oh the satisfaction.
Hey thanks!!! I’ve had several of these buildoff bikes powder coated, but this one probably cost more in terms of hours.Great job on the paint!
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I noticed the ‘21 Camelback has hit 4K views. Still not much chatter. Wonder how many Bots
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The Renaissance Man
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Great job on the shims and the paint!
Great color scheme; well executed. I can't wait to see the finished product.
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Thanks, I appreciate that coming from the master builder. I think the copper will hold up as it’s mainly going to be in compression vertically and laterally. It should tighten up any gap present.
Thanks, much appreciated, says one educator to another. Should be one off, one of a kind.
I’d like to see it done as well. Next big thing involves accessing the rear wheel and whether to include the tank or not. I’d like to retain the front light so need a battery holder somewhere.
I agree with TRM. Paint looks real good both in selection and application. Regarding the steering tube shim, I have had very good success on the repair of rear axle shafts where the axle bearing has spun on the axle.
I would take a sharpened metal prick punch and peen the surface area in the head tube where the head tube and brg body would meet (may not be possible in this instance). The brg body might be easier to peen than the HT. Then I would apply copious amounts of loctite green bearing retainer (There are few different "greens") and press it in before drying (basically following mfg directions). If the gaps aren't toooo big,... she'll hold.
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Thanks!
So if Loctite Green for retaining bearings is a real deal what’s the actual name of the product? There are 514 references on the Loctite web page for Loctite Green.
Yea, I went to their website for the 1st time in a couple of years and it is out of control....I couldn't find anything but everything...
In the past I have produced small miracles using the 638 compound, but if I were doing it today, I would probably use the 660. Since you are using a non-ferrous shim, an additional filler/surface prep may be necessary but you might get by w/o it. Here is a link you may find useful. There is a step by step guide to assist.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6600.html
They don't mention the peening process but I am a BIG FAN of doing it. That link is here.
https://www.mrosupply.com/blog/loose-bearing-race-how-to-deal-with-it/
If any problems, let me know.....
In the past I have produced small miracles using the 638 compound, but if I were doing it today, I would probably use the 660. Since you are using a non-ferrous shim, an additional filler/surface prep may be necessary but you might get by w/o it. Here is a link you may find useful. There is a step by step guide to assist.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6600.html
They don't mention the peening process but I am a BIG FAN of doing it. That link is here.
https://www.mrosupply.com/blog/loose-bearing-race-how-to-deal-with-it/
If any problems, let me know.....
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Thank you for the clarification, might be useful to other builders as well.
Good info!
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Tackled cleaning up the long spring saddle. Frame is a mix of chrome and rust. It looks better than it did, some shine and some patina. I cleaned the seat pan, scuffed up for some primer and added a coat of Hammered Black. I don’t plan to cover it as it is the single pan type with hold down perforating fingers for seat cover material.
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Dad and young one…
Thinking that the rear wheel is the next task to deal with.
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Dad and young one…
Thinking that the rear wheel is the next task to deal with.
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MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
I put the the saddle/seat back together. Chrome, rust and hammered black.
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MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
Did some assembly on the frame, crank, fork, stand and bars. Rear wheel on tap for overhaul, maybe new spokes.
After looking at this assembled, I’m thinking that the crank and chainring could used some of the hammered black paint…
After looking at this assembled, I’m thinking that the crank and chainring could used some of the hammered black paint…
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Bike is looking great. I really like the set of bars. Where did you find them?
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
They came from eBay you might try this search:
CROSSBAR bicycle Handlebars 27.5" wide Fits Schwinn Columbia ETC. Cruiser BiKES
A bit pricey but if you do a watch you might get a lower price offer.
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I like the hammered black. Maybe while you've got it out, the stem and large spacer as well? I agree on the crank too. Saddle looks great on this build!
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
I took a closer look at the rear wheel and hub just now. The New Departure hub was working and braking when the bike was together. The wheel runs pretty true with a triple step rim, all the spokes and 1” nipples. The wheel assembly would clean up sum and I could mask and paint rim.
My original thought was to re-spoke the wheel but the hub is so crusty I hate to spend time and money. Guess I’d never really looked close at hub shell. I may have a replacement hub or two if I can find them.
My original thought was to re-spoke the wheel but the hub is so crusty I hate to spend time and money. Guess I’d never really looked close at hub shell. I may have a replacement hub or two if I can find them.
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
In digging through my shed I found this 100 year anniversary Schwinn coaster 36 hole brake hub. 1995 N0S hub I picked up years ago. I have an Ichi Bikes 10 tooth skip tooth adapter cog I could use with it.
Sounds a bit sacrilegious putting a new Schwinn 100 year anniversary hub in a 102 year old Columbia bike but maybe that’s a solution…a little bling bringing up the rear.
Sounds a bit sacrilegious putting a new Schwinn 100 year anniversary hub in a 102 year old Columbia bike but maybe that’s a solution…a little bling bringing up the rear.
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MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
I pulled the crank out carefully to control grease contamination on crank arm. Pretty much successful, removed a few smudges with solvent. I masked over the grease in the bottom bracket section section of crank and shot some primer.
Following Rust-O-Leum’s dry and topcoat instructions I hit it with some matte hammered black. So some wear in will be required with the extra paint. Rust-be-Gone for a while.
Following Rust-O-Leum’s dry and topcoat instructions I hit it with some matte hammered black. So some wear in will be required with the extra paint. Rust-be-Gone for a while.
Funkme
𝐰𝐰𝐰.𝐟𝐫𝐮𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐚𝐤𝐞.𝐧𝐮𝐭
Love the work on the saddle, well done.
