ConTENtious

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

A tandem brake lever would work, but wouldn't match your other lever.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Ta daaaa

 

[Captain Awesome]

View attachment 247705
Ta daaaa

I was thinking about that too, but then I had to go back and reread what he was trying to achieve to see if my brain was processing it correctly

 

[CRASH]

View attachment 247705
Ta daaaa

Yes, I am aware. But you don't know how much of a stickler for period correct parts I am. That lever is clearly not from the late 60's, so I thumb my nose at it.

That being said... I may end up using it.

 

[Pondo]

stickler for period correct parts I am. That lever is clearly not from the late 60's, so I thumb my nose at it.

That uncompromising attention to detail is why your builds come out so incredibly nice!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

For the rear portion of the “Triple Brake Action”, I’m envisioning a double caliper set up like a Screamer.

View attachment 247570

Finding one for sale is… well… I’ve never found one for sale so… how hard can it be to make one? I’ve got a couple Excel Grand Prix sets, so, let’s see if I can make this happen.
FYI: my biggest concern isn’t building it, or getting it to fit the rear wheel with an unknown fender. My biggest concern as I’m coming up with this plan is that I’ll be using a brake lever for the front brake, so I’ll only have one lever for both rear calipers, and they’ll be actuated from two different sides.

So anyway…

To build the center, I’m using a 120mm M6x1.0 bolt and a spacer I got from work.
View attachment 247572

So I bored it out and tapped it, and set the end length to what a regular brake pivot bolt would be. Then I had it tacked in place.
View attachment 247573
View attachment 247575

So next is going to be the tough part… cutting in the spring guide. I’ll try that this weekend.

If I were doing this, I would probably try running a couple of nuts up tight with some thick washers, lock it down horizontally in a drill press vise, and drill it next to the washer on each end. The washers should keep the bit from jumping off of the edge.

 

[CRASH]

I need tips/tricks. I’ve never dealt with a rat trap before. I tapped that center bar out to get it apart so I could blast the fork. Now I can’t get it back in. The spring is fighting me. What’s a good way to do it?

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Apparently, you are the first to try this.

 

[CRASH]

Looks like I’ll have to withdraw since no one knows.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

How about starting the shaft in one side and then take an awl and go in the other side to force it over and clamp it long enough to drive the shaft in the rest of the way?

 

[Captain Awesome]

How about starting the shaft in one side and then take an awl and go in the other side to force it over and clamp it long enough to drive the shaft in the rest of the way?

This^

Or use another pin of some sort and start from the other side. Meet in the middle then drive the actual piece in while forcing the other out

 

[ingola]

Is the one of the holes bent? Or is it just the picture.if it is your off before you even start

 

[ingola]

If you point the trusses outwords does it straighten out it would relieve the tension on the spring once through you can push it down.

 

[CRASH]

Is the one of the holes bent? Or is it just the picture.if it is your off before you even start

It was. I tweaked it after the picture. I also took a dremel sander and honed/smoothed the holes a bit.

 

[CRASH]

If you point the trusses outwords does it straighten out it would relieve the tension on the spring once through you can push it down.

Straightening out the truss didn't help. That's spring just naturally pulls that pivot bar back.

 

[CRASH]

@twojs.bike found a thread I somehow overlooked, where @Jaxon outlined some pretty specific instructions.

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/spaceliner-rat-trap-fork.93187/

I attempted it last night, but I only have one quickgrip clamp, so the slower C-clamp didn't work. Tonight I'm going to buy a second Quckigrip clamp and give it another go.

 

[CRASH]

At some point in its someone bored out the threads for the mounting bracket bolts. Had I not been working with @The Renaissance Man to get his mounting brackets and bolts in order, I may have not caught the hole difference until after it was plated, which would have been bad. Anyway, I caught it and TRM came up with a simple solution that I didn’t think of. Rather than filling in the hole with weld, drilling and tapping, TRM suggested welding a nut in place. Genius! So I did.

And I tapped the new shift stick to mount a knob to it.

 

[CRASH]

Like the directions said, I had to get two claps and “aim” the rod. I had to get a second person to smack it in. So now I can start with the fork work.

 

[CRASH]

Rebuilt the front wheel with the old spokes just so I could work fittings out. When I put the hub together I ground down a spacer so that the non-shoe side and shoe-cover side were even between the flange and nut, which is important for the dish of the wheel. So I trued it, and dished it, and set it in…. And for the life of me I’m can’t figure out why that didn’t work right. The wheel sits too close on the shoe-cover side. Which means I need a bigger spacer!! Ugh. I’ll get another one and work on getting the wheel centered before I figure out the front fender situation.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Maybe it's a problem with the fork instead of the wheel. Try mounting the wheel backward to see what you get.