=D---- Laprise E-BTR

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Made the head tube.
before/after
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And made the stem bolts equal and threaded ferther.

the spring are basically compressed to a max inside there , and decompress when the suspension goes down , not much of a rebound spring , more just to keep everything tight and prevent the fork from separating
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first peice of the frame:) found a nice oldstyle head set in my stash , has a top treaded cone with a cover , makes it super thin , so more lenght for the head tube wich only make 4.775'' long
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Made the eccentric BB ,
not sure about the size of the ones they sell , but mine was made to fit a (american/one peice cranks bb)
i used the bearing cups and peices of a headset to make the half moon
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then covered the center part to the same diameter
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and shaped small tubes to fit the square head of the bolts , welded that to the cylinder and cut the center part.
some cleaning up to do but it works! :)
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also di a other drawing,
i keep going back and forth again on what i want/need for motor
now iam thinking the 3000w original plan is way to much overkill ,
so iam looking at a 750/1000w 2speed hub motor , less weight, less noise, less battery needed/more range with same batteries:113:
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slowly back at it!
i was (and still) learning the most i can about electronics , its complicated :crazy2:

i did order and recieved my motor :)
a 900 to 2000w geared hub front motor
these have enough torque to start at low speed yet still go up to 40mph
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and today i did the seat/chain stays , i used the old lady elgin stays crown , made the bottom one wider and extended to remove the flat part close to the dropouts , top one now has round tubes instead of the scary superflat oval tubes
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iam still not sure how ill do the motor/battery/controler/charger support , my 2 ideas right now is water jet aluminum plates or using steel cooking pots and do a motor case...
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pressed some leftover mapple in the press to make a seat pan , but it need more curve so ill try a 2nd time
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and thats just a idea
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:hi:
 
Your paint sketch of the motor makes me think an engine cover made from a fan might look good.
 
Your paint sketch of the motor makes me think an engine cover made from a fan might look good.
good idea , like small mesh grill cover and actual fan to cool the motor behind it :thumbsup:
 
I'm not sure how the hub motor mounted in the frame works.
I have a 36v hub motor, but can't figure how it would turn the rear wheel. For that matter, I don't know how it turns the wheel it's mounted in. I just know it works.
 
to mount it in the frame its like mounting a wheel , it hold by the axel and the motor spin around it , in my case ill mount a sprocket on the diskbrake holes , some are abble to reverse the rotation of the motor and use the freewheel on a rear hub ..but since geared motors have a freewheel clutch inside them , i picked up a narower front motor and can mount the sprocket straight to it

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as for how the motor works in side , well if its a direct drive , its just the outer magnets on the case rotating over the coper coils fix to the axle ..
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if its a geared motor like mine and most small hubs , it like a hub motor inside and other , the inner spining part turn the small gear neer the axle , then spin the 3 gears ,that makes the outer case spin at about 1:6 of the ratio , that way the motor inside is happy spinning fast ,and it give more torque
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nice little peice of engeneering
 
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That's pretty nifty.
Mine is a single speed, rear wheel mounted. Originally was going to use it to build an electric bagger, but never finished it.
 
That's pretty nifty.
Mine is a single speed, rear wheel mounted. Originally was going to use it to build an electric bagger, but never finished it.
do it! :113:
 
Fabricated the drop outs with some tentionners
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and recieve some bling!
ill have to modify the sprocket to clear the coaster brake arm and be abble to off set it more.
the chain don't fit ether ,ill have to grind the thooth thinner . got a good deal on those so i don't complain to much :wink1:
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The drop outs look great!

Instead of trying to modify the sprocket, why not go with the larger chain that it is designed to use? I'm not sure that a bicycle chain will work even if you make it thinner.
 
The drop outs look great!

Instead of trying to modify the sprocket, why not go with the larger chain that it is designed to use? I'm not sure that a bicycle chain will work even if you make it thinner.
i could have , but its just overkill and i would not be able to use the freshly bought 1/2-1/8''chains ,the sprocket is for 415 chain , basically 3/16'' wide bicycle chain
 
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thinner teeth
bigger center hole
modified coaster arm
= chain fits and sprocket is offset properly :113:
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it also created a disk brake spacer in the process :)
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Re-did the cross bar to have better clearance and just the right curve , also made rubber boots with inner tubes
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iam waiting on motor sprocket befor starting the frame , i have to see where the chian is passing before i decide where the bb will be, also to see what kind of crank/sprocket i could fit to clear the motor ...allot of things to lign up and plan ahead
 
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got the motor sprocket , annnnd... too wide also :doh:
had to modify it like the other one.
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also had to file the brandnew motor a little bit over the bolt holes to fit the sprocket on :tmi:
some scratchs but it will likely be painted silver anyway
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with the disk brake spacer created by the last sprocket mod , this sprocket fits perfectly seated both on the mount and the motor cover
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looks about right , can always plat with the offset at the rear
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28t - 32t
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found the perfect match :43: pretty cheap too:thumbsup:
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