First BMX styled Cruiser build (questions)

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Hello everyone.

I'm gonna build my first BMX styled cruiser based on Schwinn's Heavy Duty frame. I don't have real experience yet and my knowledges are superficial.
But since I don't live in United States, I need to minimize the risk of buying the wrong parts and accessories in US shops.

The frame itself (one photo at the moment):

Full size photo - http://i.imgbox.com/ORZDxPob.jpeg

1) How to choose a high-quality heavy duty wheelset (size - 26x2.125)?
Most of the wheelsets I saw are not branded and the specs seem similar for beginner.
What price can be considered as a minimal acceptable price?
Prices vary from $60 to $200 for pair. Some wheels are not branded and thier specs seem similar for beginner.

2) Are there any specific features of heavy duty wheels, which I need to know about in case if I decide to convert a single speed bike to a 3-speed?

Any practical advices and comments will be much appreciated.
 
26x2.125 is a little wide for a BMX cruiser. Most run a 1.75" width, it's what I run also. You can find prebuilt wheels on Planet BMX in that size for between $150-$200. Their rims are mostly all alloy Sun, which are very good. They all have sealed bearings as well.

Rim brand/quality, steel vs alloy, the style bearings in the hub (loose ball or sealed) and where it's made are what have the most impact to the price of the wheelset. Sealed will typically last longer so if you are riding at the beach or in a dusty area a sealed bearing would be preferred.

On the topic of using a IGH, if the wheel was laced with a single speed you would need to have it re-laced with the IGH and make sure that the new hub fits the dropouts of the frame.
 
some thoughts on wheel/tire size....

A lot of the old-school, pre-24" bmx cruisers did run 26x1.75" rubber, but those tires look good stretched over 26x2.125" rims. In either case, there's so much space between the stays on a SCHD that I'd be inclined to run some 2.125" rubber regardless. The SCHD is a seriously beefy frame, and thinner rubber would look kinda anemic in that context, IMHO. You ccan get Comp III or Cheng Shin Snakebellies in 26x2.125, which'd look rad, especially in gumwall.

If you're getting some true heavy-duty wheels, they'll have either 12g or 11g spokes. Not all IGHs can accommodate spokes that thick, which would be a concern if you were to convert to IGH down the line. Personally, i think that an IGH on a bmx cruiser defeats both the look and the spirit of a BMX bike, although a 2speed kickback would rock hard. Many of those will not be drilled for 12g or bigger, though.

You can get some Weinmann AS7X rims laced with stainless 12g spokes to a Shimano cb-e110 and a generic front for about $100 to $110, depending on color. The AS7X are basically modern/cheap Araya 7x knock-offs. They look good, and they hold up well, especially if you take some time to even out the tension on the spokes when you first get'm, and again after you got 100 miles or so on'm....

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-alloy-silver-3-8-alloy-hub-12g-ss-spokes-36h
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...loy-silver-shimano-e-100-cb-12g-ss-spokes-36h

(They also come in black...)
 
Sorry for late reply, guys.

Hi,
I used the same frame to build my klunker.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/orbo-heavy-duti-rocket.96626/
Here is a link to a thread about the frame including specifications.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/klunkers-frame-selection.97745/
One of the things I liked about the frame is it seems like many different parts work with it. I would imagine most any 26" wheel would work.
Thank you for the links, horsefarmer. Saved them for future serious upgrades. :thumbsup:

26x2.125 is a little wide for a BMX cruiser. Most run a 1.75" width, it's what I run also.
Okay. Got it.
I knew that standart (stock) tires of this frame are 2.125, so I started out looking for them.

If you're getting some true heavy-duty wheels, they'll have either 12g or 11g spokes. Not all IGHs can accommodate spokes that thick, which would be a concern if you were to convert to IGH down the line. Personally, i think that an IGH on a bmx cruiser defeats both the look and the spirit of a BMX bike, although a 2speed kickback would rock hard. Many of those will not be drilled for 12g or bigger, though.
You know, this bike will be my first for the last 10 years. All I had in the past is heavy Taiwan crap with a bunch of speeds.

So I just don't know what it's like to ride 1-speed bike.

You can get some Weinmann AS7X rims laced with stainless 12g spokes to a Shimano cb-e110 and a generic front for about $100 to $110, depending on color. The AS7X are basically modern/cheap Araya 7x knock-offs. They look good, and they hold up well, especially if you take some time to even out the tension on the spokes when you first get'm, and again after you got 100 miles or so on'm....
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-alloy-silver-3-8-alloy-hub-12g-ss-spokes-36h
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...loy-silver-shimano-e-100-cb-12g-ss-spokes-36h
These ones are 1.75

What can be said about the 2.125 sets below?
1) http://www.bikeberry.com/heavy-duty-12-guage-black-coaster-brake-26-inch-x-2-125-inch-rim-set.html
2) http://custommotoredbicycles.com/he...edanodized_colored_rims_alloyfreewheel_wheels
3) http://www.planetbmx.com/shop/26-bmx-sealed-bearing-weinmann-7x-style-wheelset-black.html

Some of them marked as 26x2.125 only.
How to identify the smallest and the largest tires they can be fitted with?
 
The rims that they even bother to mark with a width anymore, the second figure is actually the SMALLEST tire you can run. You can easily go up from that rating, but they recommend that you don't go down, b/c potentially you could roll the bead off the hook. But many folks do run smaller rubber on wider rims anyway, often without problems if you keep the psi right....

Your third wheelset is singlespeed, no coaster brake... and uses the same rims as the wheelset that i'd linked you to. The sticker on the rims reads "1.75/2.125"... I've run anything from 1.95" to 2.4" knobbies on these rims, no problems, no worries. FWIW, most modern rims don't use the 1.75/2.15" designations, and instead will give t=you the width of the rim's extrusion, typically both the outer dimension, as well as the space inside, between the hooks.

What tires do you intend to run?
 
how about all of those wheels and tires in the background of the picture you provided...gotta be something in there that will work.
My motto is usually...start with what you have layin' around.
CopyofSpacerGear.jpg

If all you have is freewheels or cassette you can just dismantle and use the ring you want with appropriate spacers...or just run chain to the sprocket you need....just a thought that might save a hundred bucks or so....
best
Franco
 
What do you say about these sets on custommotoredbicycles.com?

Well, that's a nice price. I don't have any experience with those rims, but cheap rims can be pretty good...or they can be pretty awful. The hub is a KT, which isn't the best coaster, but they work decently if you lube/adjust them properly. (They typically come from the factory in a dry & tight state...) If/when it starts to act up, you can rebuild it with Shimano cb-e110 guts....which is, in my experience, a slightly better hub.

HTH
Rob
 

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