I deprived another bike of its suspension post and I think this might be a final for the seat set up. (when I say full suspension I mean full suspension!)
Last edited:
Fully
- Thread starter toro1978
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Bwahahaha I just made that joke on the other bike's thread. Fully fully! Now you need a spring seat: fully fully fully suspended!
LOL, yeah I just read it!
My initial idea was to use my Lepper seat, but it is in poor condition (an issue with one of the nose springs), it weighs a ton and requires additional support to not tilt back under my weight. The seat post is 1" and the inner seat tube is 1 1/8", but I used a shim.
There is still a lot of work though - the cables must be installed and I am not happy with the front tire. I will wait with the tires because I might be able to get a pair of really cool and rare tires that I could then split between this one and the Haribo.
Also prepared the bars:
My initial idea was to use my Lepper seat, but it is in poor condition (an issue with one of the nose springs), it weighs a ton and requires additional support to not tilt back under my weight. The seat post is 1" and the inner seat tube is 1 1/8", but I used a shim.
There is still a lot of work though - the cables must be installed and I am not happy with the front tire. I will wait with the tires because I might be able to get a pair of really cool and rare tires that I could then split between this one and the Haribo.
Also prepared the bars:
While I enjoy how twist shifters operate I don't like how much handlebar length they cost me, so yes, I would very much like to replace it. I also don't have a rubber ring for this shifter, because it came with a twist grip.
I would prefer a rapid fire 3sp shifter, but I haven't been lucky enough to find one yet. You made me search the web and I found these options, all 3 models are available to buy, but for 29-39$ each:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S90.html
There is also this one: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S91J.html
Very cool. I also found this:
SL-3S70. This one might be the one I use.
We'll see, this is maybe 100$ for 2 + shipping (If I do this I might as well also replace the shifter on my Haribo bike), which is a bit steep. I have lready planned that money for tires (the fellow is ill so we wait a bit till he gets better to go through with the deal) and I still need to buy cables and housings.
What shifter would you recommend?
I would prefer a rapid fire 3sp shifter, but I haven't been lucky enough to find one yet. You made me search the web and I found these options, all 3 models are available to buy, but for 29-39$ each:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S90.html
There is also this one: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S91J.html
Very cool. I also found this:
SL-3S70. This one might be the one I use.
We'll see, this is maybe 100$ for 2 + shipping (If I do this I might as well also replace the shifter on my Haribo bike), which is a bit steep. I have lready planned that money for tires (the fellow is ill so we wait a bit till he gets better to go through with the deal) and I still need to buy cables and housings.
What shifter would you recommend?
Last edited:
Since it's a 3spd the only gear that needs to be used accurately is the second one (first is line all-in, and third is line all-out) I use a non indexed shifter from old Polish racing bikes. I just made a set of dots representing the second gear. Made a lot of miles on it, and it works perfectly.
I am not familiar with these. I remember them vaguely from when I was a kid.
Would this Torpedo shifter work?
Would this Torpedo shifter work?
You may consider Microshift . I have used them for both 3 & 4 speed Nexus . The 4 speed I had to order from Germany and the Frt. was more then the shifter .While I enjoy how twist shifters operate I don't like how much handlebar length they cost me, so yes, I would very much like to replace it. I also don't have a rubber ring for this shifter, because it came with a twist grip.
I would prefer a rapid fire 3sp shifter, but I haven't been lucky enough to find one yet. You made me search the web and I found these options, all 3 models are available to buy, but for 29-39$ each:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S90.html
There is also this one: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SL-3S91J.html
Very cool. I also found this:
SL-3S70. This one might be the one I use.
We'll see, this is maybe 100$ for 2 + shipping (If I do this I might as well also replace the shifter on my Haribo bike), which is a bit steep. I have lready planned that money for tires (the fellow is ill so we wait a bit till he gets better to go through with the deal) and I still need to buy cables and housings.
What shifter would you recommend?
A 70's 3pd Sachs shifter with new Shimano hub is not recommended as it has different pull lengths. That Sachs shifter looks like it has a busted return spring on it as well. Buy and use one of the new push/pull plastic ones above you referenced.
I thought so. Well, I will leave it like this for now. I will search for one of the thumb shifters located in Europe.
P.S. Well it turns out the firston the list, the SL-3S90 can be purchased from Japan for a reasonable price, shipping included.
P.S. Well it turns out the firston the list, the SL-3S90 can be purchased from Japan for a reasonable price, shipping included.
Last edited:
Today I have a day off so I got me my box cutter:
Then I patiently shaved those tread edges off to give the front tire a more rounded look:
Cockpit view:
The Tacho didn't feel right. A wider view (it has a kickstand at last):
I will have to get a proper shim for the seat post. I have these Shimano cables here:
... But I think I might use red cable housings on this bike.
Then I patiently shaved those tread edges off to give the front tire a more rounded look:
Cockpit view:
The Tacho didn't feel right. A wider view (it has a kickstand at last):
I will have to get a proper shim for the seat post. I have these Shimano cables here:
... But I think I might use red cable housings on this bike.
Last edited:
The shim that I used for the seat post is for ahead stem, so about 30-40mm length only. I will be ordering a seat post shim which is I think 80 or 100mm long.
In the meantime this is what it looks like under the seat:
The nut on the seat clamp was chosen because it looks like a tooth wheel, so it matches the setting nut for the shock, and to emphasize the industrial look.
Next I have to figure out how to run the cables.
In the meantime this is what it looks like under the seat:
The nut on the seat clamp was chosen because it looks like a tooth wheel, so it matches the setting nut for the shock, and to emphasize the industrial look.
Next I have to figure out how to run the cables.
Some development.
I am not big friend of fenders, but I wanted to try something:
Then I added a rear fender:
My shift cable set has arrived, in the end all cables will be black. I don't want too much color. I am also thinking about sanding the fenders bare metal, but I am not sure if it is worth it since the fork and the swing arm are black anyway.
I might have another such or similar front light. The taillight is battery operated so I can run two front lights with the dynamo. Or so I think.
I am not big friend of fenders, but I wanted to try something:
Then I added a rear fender:
My shift cable set has arrived, in the end all cables will be black. I don't want too much color. I am also thinking about sanding the fenders bare metal, but I am not sure if it is worth it since the fork and the swing arm are black anyway.
I might have another such or similar front light. The taillight is battery operated so I can run two front lights with the dynamo. Or so I think.
I like the fenders! Cool spin on their length and mounting position. Personally, I’d leave them black and let them blend in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've never messed with full suspension bikes. You have inspired me, and I plan to build a rat fully some time in the near future. I'm keeping my eyes out for a cheapie.
All right, I am inclined to leave them black as well. Some silver stripes or something like this perhaps.
By the way that microshifter sure looks fine.
Fullys offer a wonderful cushy ride. It would be cool to ride it electric, but no extra money for such an upgrade. It would look great with a bare metal motor and a silver battery on the top tube.
To be honest I also had an air suspension fork in mind, originally, but decided to keep this double crown fork, which was a trade between looks and function. This one works OK, but obviously is a 20 years old low end fork.
I might get the second front light today.
I got this bike stand a few days ago and I put it together today. It was from the supermarket ALDI SÜD (don't laugh) and it looks good ok. I managed to get the fully on it, despite almost its weird frame.
It has a wide spread (not fully spreaded in the photo) , five legs, height adjustable.
The bike clamp is with a quick release (had to loosen the dynamo and get it out of the way first).
It also has a small tray with a magnet, also a handlebars holder.
I will use it to run the cables and lights. I assume it will make the work more comfortable.
I think 25 was a fair price. The brand was Bikemate. I do have a build or two planned that I can use it on.
By the way that microshifter sure looks fine.
Fullys offer a wonderful cushy ride. It would be cool to ride it electric, but no extra money for such an upgrade. It would look great with a bare metal motor and a silver battery on the top tube.
To be honest I also had an air suspension fork in mind, originally, but decided to keep this double crown fork, which was a trade between looks and function. This one works OK, but obviously is a 20 years old low end fork.
I might get the second front light today.
I got this bike stand a few days ago and I put it together today. It was from the supermarket ALDI SÜD (don't laugh) and it looks good ok. I managed to get the fully on it, despite almost its weird frame.
It has a wide spread (not fully spreaded in the photo) , five legs, height adjustable.
The bike clamp is with a quick release (had to loosen the dynamo and get it out of the way first).
It also has a small tray with a magnet, also a handlebars holder.
I will use it to run the cables and lights. I assume it will make the work more comfortable.
I think 25 was a fair price. The brand was Bikemate. I do have a build or two planned that I can use it on.
I have had the exact same stand for 2 years now. Purchased from Aldi store in Wisconsin, USA.
It's a nice stand, maybe a little cheesy, especially the plastic clamp. Also I have lost a couple of the soft jaws just fell off somewhere...
It's a nice stand, maybe a little cheesy, especially the plastic clamp. Also I have lost a couple of the soft jaws just fell off somewhere...
The bike stand is rock solid. Tonight I tripped and fell over it. It moved a bit to the side, but stayed very stable.
I got just a bruise on my knee.
I connected the brakes.
The rear is a roller brake from Shimano, which goes with this Nexus 3 hub:
The front hub is a Sachs with a drum brake:
And this is my temporary solution for the coaster (reaction) arm of the drum brake:
A front light holder is held in place by the three plastic clamps.
Could I use simply some metal band, you know that one with the holes?
That fork tube is 35mm in diameter. I might look online for some pipe clamp.
I have to think of a way to widen the holes on these cable guides. Can anyone familiar with such bikes explain what is the idea to have the cable housings in a few segments???
I am not sure about the fenders, in particular the rear fender - it distracts from the clean look of the swingarm, I feel.
I got just a bruise on my knee.
I connected the brakes.
The rear is a roller brake from Shimano, which goes with this Nexus 3 hub:
The front hub is a Sachs with a drum brake:
And this is my temporary solution for the coaster (reaction) arm of the drum brake:
A front light holder is held in place by the three plastic clamps.
Could I use simply some metal band, you know that one with the holes?
That fork tube is 35mm in diameter. I might look online for some pipe clamp.
I have to think of a way to widen the holes on these cable guides. Can anyone familiar with such bikes explain what is the idea to have the cable housings in a few segments???
I am not sure about the fenders, in particular the rear fender - it distracts from the clean look of the swingarm, I feel.
Last edited:
If the roller brake is the only brake, I would want something stout. Don't want that arm spinning when braking. 
The partial housings over cables are supposed to reduce friction and weight (and look cool) but a downside - great spot for rust and dirt. I imagine you could drill out or grind off the small hole that stops the housing and run it through.
The partial housings over cables are supposed to reduce friction and weight (and look cool) but a downside - great spot for rust and dirt. I imagine you could drill out or grind off the small hole that stops the housing and run it through.
As I was preparing to connect the gears I did some reading, to find out what is the correct inner cable length from the setting nut to the "inner cable mounting bolt", which the manual says is 127mm.
I also found out my hub is the SG-3R75. From the Shimano webpage (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SG-3R75-B.html):
Higher stability of shifting performance by new internal mechanism, Higher durability and higher internal strength ( 2 times and 1.5 times better than normal INTER-3 ), Smooth shifting by silent clutch.
Then I found the following info on Sheldon Brown's page: "The rotary-shifting SG-3R75 uses the same CJ-NX40 cassette joint cable connection as Shimano's 7-speed hubs."
But if they are all interchangeable this means I can use one like this:
...which I prefer.
I also found out my hub is the SG-3R75. From the Shimano webpage (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SG-3R75-B.html):
Higher stability of shifting performance by new internal mechanism, Higher durability and higher internal strength ( 2 times and 1.5 times better than normal INTER-3 ), Smooth shifting by silent clutch.
Then I found the following info on Sheldon Brown's page: "The rotary-shifting SG-3R75 uses the same CJ-NX40 cassette joint cable connection as Shimano's 7-speed hubs."
But if they are all interchangeable this means I can use one like this:
...which I prefer.
