Oh, yes, forgot to mention the chain rub. 
Fully
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I'll take those foul rubby berm masters off your hands...bad evil tires!
No, no, no! Not today!
The tubing is oval and not rounded, and also a bit curved. So instead of trying to indent it, which I have never done, I decided to simply file away some material from the chain stays.
I didn't even have to go through the tubing.
It is actually the edge of the knobbies that rubs. So this was enough to fix it. I thought I would have to do the seat stays as well, it is tight, but acceptable. I pumped the tire good and marked with a sharpie where the it rubbed, then removed the wheel and used zip ties to lead my round file between them.
So I am left with the chain rub. I need an offset chainring.
I have two mtb cranksets - from both fully bikes - and they both have the left crank destroyed - one has a welded pedal and the other stripped pedal thread. I could of course simply keep the left crank and only replace the drive side...
I also doubt that the 1/8 chain would work with the 3/32 chainrings and especially the spacing between them. Also not really an elegant solution...
So I am left with the option to get a spider crankset. Problem is I have to choose between ugly cheap ones and nice expensive ones.
Bcd 130 probably. Not sure, but I think my offset opc crankset has bcd130, so I might not have to buy a chainring.
P.S. It does rub against the seat stays too, but just a hair. I will have to do them too
The tubing is oval and not rounded, and also a bit curved. So instead of trying to indent it, which I have never done, I decided to simply file away some material from the chain stays.
I didn't even have to go through the tubing.
It is actually the edge of the knobbies that rubs. So this was enough to fix it. I thought I would have to do the seat stays as well, it is tight, but acceptable. I pumped the tire good and marked with a sharpie where the it rubbed, then removed the wheel and used zip ties to lead my round file between them.
So I am left with the chain rub. I need an offset chainring.
I have two mtb cranksets - from both fully bikes - and they both have the left crank destroyed - one has a welded pedal and the other stripped pedal thread. I could of course simply keep the left crank and only replace the drive side...
I also doubt that the 1/8 chain would work with the 3/32 chainrings and especially the spacing between them. Also not really an elegant solution...
So I am left with the option to get a spider crankset. Problem is I have to choose between ugly cheap ones and nice expensive ones.
Bcd 130 probably. Not sure, but I think my offset opc crankset has bcd130, so I might not have to buy a chainring.
P.S. It does rub against the seat stays too, but just a hair. I will have to do them too
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Solving the chain rub problem.
I managed to find a crankset that fit the requirements - low price and good looking. This is aluminum:
As pretty as it looks the chainrings configuration can't work as it is. It is a 52/42 double. It is a shame because I love the look especially with the guard which is aluminum and not plastic. Whole crankset is aluminum, actually. I don't care much about the bike's weight, but I am impressed how light it is compared to the original steel crankset.
It is marked Thun:
It has been probably polished because there used to be a model inscription on the side of the crankarms that you can still hardly see on the drive side:
Aero Coronado it says.
I do have 38t currently. I could go up to 42 and will have to remove the big chainring and the guard (which unfortunately can be mounted on the big chainring only). I am not big on guards, but this one is nice, I wanted to turn it around, mount it inside of the chainring. Maybe I could use the guard and the big ring on another build in the future. I thought about keeping them maybe with a bigger rear cog, but I don't have enough chain.
I was rather thinking of 44-46t though. I think I will install the 42t chainring on the outside of the spider and see how the gearing feels. Then if it is still too low for my taste I could use the chainring from this "opc" offset chainring:
It turns out that both spiders have bcd 130. The black chainring has 44t. I am also happy that all chainrings are 1/8" wide and not 3/32".
There is plenty of clearance for the chainring to be bolted offset if needed:
And some links to extend the chain:
Unfortunately not too many. Otherwise I could have gone with a "macro drive" - 52t in the front and say 23t in the rear. But I run 16t in the rear now and even with keeping the rear cog at 16t, the 52t front would require more links than I have. And I don't want to use a regular chain, also I have used the 52/16 combination before and I didn't have a low gear.
I managed to find a crankset that fit the requirements - low price and good looking. This is aluminum:
As pretty as it looks the chainrings configuration can't work as it is. It is a 52/42 double. It is a shame because I love the look especially with the guard which is aluminum and not plastic. Whole crankset is aluminum, actually. I don't care much about the bike's weight, but I am impressed how light it is compared to the original steel crankset.
It is marked Thun:
It has been probably polished because there used to be a model inscription on the side of the crankarms that you can still hardly see on the drive side:
Aero Coronado it says.
I do have 38t currently. I could go up to 42 and will have to remove the big chainring and the guard (which unfortunately can be mounted on the big chainring only). I am not big on guards, but this one is nice, I wanted to turn it around, mount it inside of the chainring. Maybe I could use the guard and the big ring on another build in the future. I thought about keeping them maybe with a bigger rear cog, but I don't have enough chain.
I was rather thinking of 44-46t though. I think I will install the 42t chainring on the outside of the spider and see how the gearing feels. Then if it is still too low for my taste I could use the chainring from this "opc" offset chainring:
It turns out that both spiders have bcd 130. The black chainring has 44t. I am also happy that all chainrings are 1/8" wide and not 3/32".
There is plenty of clearance for the chainring to be bolted offset if needed:
And some links to extend the chain:
Unfortunately not too many. Otherwise I could have gone with a "macro drive" - 52t in the front and say 23t in the rear. But I run 16t in the rear now and even with keeping the rear cog at 16t, the 52t front would require more links than I have. And I don't want to use a regular chain, also I have used the 52/16 combination before and I didn't have a low gear.
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I eliminated the tire rub against the swing arm completely, the tire at around 2,4 bar:
I also installed the crankset. I had to use the slightly larger washers from the offset opc chainring. It turned out this crankset uses older bolts, for 8mm holes, whereas nowadays everything is for 10mm holes.
It seems these are still available in different lengths nonetheless, they are used in combination with 50,4 bcd.
The offset might be a little too much for the short chainline, I hope not.
So I am left with the 42t chainring and need to extend the chain with 2 links.
I will do that later, but here is a photo of my cheap chainbreaker:
As you can see two of the pins that hold the chain steady have broke off - in less than 50 uses (probably around 20-25). It cost me 5 bucks, but obviously needs to be replaced already. I hope it will survive this final task.
I also installed the crankset. I had to use the slightly larger washers from the offset opc chainring. It turned out this crankset uses older bolts, for 8mm holes, whereas nowadays everything is for 10mm holes.
It seems these are still available in different lengths nonetheless, they are used in combination with 50,4 bcd.
The offset might be a little too much for the short chainline, I hope not.
So I am left with the 42t chainring and need to extend the chain with 2 links.
I will do that later, but here is a photo of my cheap chainbreaker:
As you can see two of the pins that hold the chain steady have broke off - in less than 50 uses (probably around 20-25). It cost me 5 bucks, but obviously needs to be replaced already. I hope it will survive this final task.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
That happened to one breaker I had ON THE FIRST CHAIN!!
Well, I hope you got a refund at least.
I remember how it was raining and they had those foldable umbrellas for 2 bucks. So I got one for my wife and the minute we went outside and she opened it it broke. So we went back in and they offered to replace it! So I said I would rather have a refund and buy the 3€ umbrella which is not foldable and rather sturdier. And it works to this very day.
"I am not rich enough to buy cheap quality" someone said.
So I mentioned I am not fond of the chain tensioner/idler (which I got in a front wheel trade as a bonus). I don't like the position and I don't like that it is rigid. This is also the only position I could use it.
I also don't like that it is in the way of the shifter cable.
So I will try to use this detailer, which if I pull it all the way forward might just be perfect, with maybe a little work.
I think it should be axle mounted but I have almost 10 mm of anti rotation washer there which would offset the derailer, so I will mount it to the derailer mount that is provided under the dropout.
I remember how it was raining and they had those foldable umbrellas for 2 bucks. So I got one for my wife and the minute we went outside and she opened it it broke. So we went back in and they offered to replace it! So I said I would rather have a refund and buy the 3€ umbrella which is not foldable and rather sturdier. And it works to this very day.
"I am not rich enough to buy cheap quality" someone said.
So I mentioned I am not fond of the chain tensioner/idler (which I got in a front wheel trade as a bonus). I don't like the position and I don't like that it is rigid. This is also the only position I could use it.
I also don't like that it is in the way of the shifter cable.
So I will try to use this detailer, which if I pull it all the way forward might just be perfect, with maybe a little work.
I think it should be axle mounted but I have almost 10 mm of anti rotation washer there which would offset the derailer, so I will mount it to the derailer mount that is provided under the dropout.
This will of course only work If I manage to find the derailer holding bolt.
OK. I had to adjust the derailer laterally as well so I went with this setup:
This piece of cable end with a road nipple was a few millimeter too short. I should look for another piece, but for now I had to use the opposite end with the big nipple.
But for proof of concept this is enough.
I had to trim a piece of two and remove the second jockey wheel, but here it is installed:
There is a cable lead on the chain stay and it is kind of in the way. To remove it I have to remove the wheel, but because of the brake bosses I have to release most of the air and I also have to disconnect the roller brake, but it is held by the kickstand which also has to be removed. So I just cheated and used a piece of rubber from old grips and some electric tape to elevate the derailer body a mm or two. Also to prevent the derailer rubbing on the chain stays. In case you are wondering what's with the tape there.
It is big and I would prefer another one I have with shorter "cage" (??? Is that what it is called):
However I think it is supposed to be mounted on the axle because the bolt from the other derailer is not compatible because the bolt has a "collar" that won't fit this derailer. I can't mount it on the axle though because then I don't have enough thread to tighten the axle nut.
Still, I like this solution better than the previous chain tensioner.
It just dawned on me that I could probably widen the hole to fit the bolt. Hm... "Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!"
This piece of cable end with a road nipple was a few millimeter too short. I should look for another piece, but for now I had to use the opposite end with the big nipple.
But for proof of concept this is enough.
I had to trim a piece of two and remove the second jockey wheel, but here it is installed:
There is a cable lead on the chain stay and it is kind of in the way. To remove it I have to remove the wheel, but because of the brake bosses I have to release most of the air and I also have to disconnect the roller brake, but it is held by the kickstand which also has to be removed. So I just cheated and used a piece of rubber from old grips and some electric tape to elevate the derailer body a mm or two. Also to prevent the derailer rubbing on the chain stays. In case you are wondering what's with the tape there.
It is big and I would prefer another one I have with shorter "cage" (??? Is that what it is called):
However I think it is supposed to be mounted on the axle because the bolt from the other derailer is not compatible because the bolt has a "collar" that won't fit this derailer. I can't mount it on the axle though because then I don't have enough thread to tighten the axle nut.
Still, I like this solution better than the previous chain tensioner.
It just dawned on me that I could probably widen the hole to fit the bolt. Hm... "Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!"
I plan to do some work on my daily and I have no idea how long will it take. So in the meantime I need something to ride around town.
I got the old fully frameset and went through my parts and put it together.
This is the "Full fully" as it also has a suspension seat post and a suspension stem.
The chain tensioner that sat somewhat tight on the bigger fully is a perfect fit on this one. The first ride showed that the bars are too low and the seat angle is too steep. Otherwise it rides comfy. It is also geared really low - 38/22, so very climb-friendly.
I have to admit I'd love to have a matching front wheel, I do have the tire, but the black front wheel that goes with the rear is 26".
I got the old fully frameset and went through my parts and put it together.
This is the "Full fully" as it also has a suspension seat post and a suspension stem.
The chain tensioner that sat somewhat tight on the bigger fully is a perfect fit on this one. The first ride showed that the bars are too low and the seat angle is too steep. Otherwise it rides comfy. It is also geared really low - 38/22, so very climb-friendly.
I have to admit I'd love to have a matching front wheel, I do have the tire, but the black front wheel that goes with the rear is 26".
OK, I rode the silver fully a while. Very low geared. The suspension seat post bent and I removed it. Now I don't have the right size - 27,2 is what I had to shim and it doesn't hold well. I will have to get the right size. Which I had, but moronically cut 10-15 cm off.
The suspension stem I did not like at all and replaced it with non suspension stem.
The bike fell and the shifter broke so I tried a SA shifter and it works only the gears on the display are switched - it shows 3rd when in 1st.
In the photos above it has a 24x2,125 Quick brick rear tire, but the more I looked at the bike the more I was willing to put it under the knife. It took a lot of convincing, but in the end I managed to stuff a Thick brick tire in the swing arm. I needed to do a lot more work on the chain stays, compared to the black fully, but I didn't have to do the seat stays at all.
The SA shifter:
The suspension stem I did not like at all and replaced it with non suspension stem.
The bike fell and the shifter broke so I tried a SA shifter and it works only the gears on the display are switched - it shows 3rd when in 1st.
In the photos above it has a 24x2,125 Quick brick rear tire, but the more I looked at the bike the more I was willing to put it under the knife. It took a lot of convincing, but in the end I managed to stuff a Thick brick tire in the swing arm. I needed to do a lot more work on the chain stays, compared to the black fully, but I didn't have to do the seat stays at all.
The SA shifter:
And a few daylight pics:
By the way these are Aaron Urban pedals and they have an antislip surface that works as it should. I can highly recommend them. Also quite thin profile.
The front brake solution, it really only needs to be held in place in order to not rub against the fork leg:
And I had to use an additional piece for the coaster brake bracket:
Other than the wrong size seat post I have no complaints about this daily bike, it rides OK. There are things that I would still do to it, like getting a matching 24" wheel with a narrower tire and swap the fork. But for now that's it.
I have to take the other fully out, but it is 1 degree Celsius here and I just ride the daily fully to get groceries and that's it, I just don't want to go for fun rides. That chopper should finally see some ride too, the cruiser as well...
OK the bare metal bike will have to wait a long time until it sees a dry weather. It is like having a open top car.
By the way these are Aaron Urban pedals and they have an antislip surface that works as it should. I can highly recommend them. Also quite thin profile.
The front brake solution, it really only needs to be held in place in order to not rub against the fork leg:
And I had to use an additional piece for the coaster brake bracket:
Other than the wrong size seat post I have no complaints about this daily bike, it rides OK. There are things that I would still do to it, like getting a matching 24" wheel with a narrower tire and swap the fork. But for now that's it.
I have to take the other fully out, but it is 1 degree Celsius here and I just ride the daily fully to get groceries and that's it, I just don't want to go for fun rides. That chopper should finally see some ride too, the cruiser as well...
OK the bare metal bike will have to wait a long time until it sees a dry weather. It is like having a open top car.
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Still I found a reason to go out and took the bigger fully for a test.
It rides nicely, in fact so pleasant that I rode around for a while before I got back. The drive train runs OK.
I am not pleased with the handlebars though - way too wide and too much backsweep. A bit low too.
And one from the non drive side:
Braking power is more than adequate.
It rides nicely, in fact so pleasant that I rode around for a while before I got back. The drive train runs OK.
I am not pleased with the handlebars though - way too wide and too much backsweep. A bit low too.
And one from the non drive side:
Braking power is more than adequate.
That looks like a fun bike. Mid-drive it and so some sweet jumps!
You probably said already, but is tha a 24 or 26 thick brick on the back?
Also, how do find that style of chain tensioner
Compared to the derailleur hanger style?
Which seems to be more common, at least around here.
It is 24" Thick Brick.
About the tensioner - I haven't used the other type so can't compare. Is the other spring loaded? This one is rigid which makes it suitable for use with a coaster brake. It is ugly, but it does the job. A bit noisy though.
About the tensioner - I haven't used the other type so can't compare. Is the other spring loaded? This one is rigid which makes it suitable for use with a coaster brake. It is ugly, but it does the job. A bit noisy though.
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Yeah, spring hooks onto the same spot on the hanger as on a derailleur.
Can't use it with a coaster. But the established wisdom I'd heard was that you can't use any tensioner with a coaster. Which you're clearly proving wrong!
Do you feel like it's sturdy enough for reliable braking?
I 'd say it is sturdy enough - I don't use the coaster brake much while riding, preferring the front brake, but I sure do like to stand on the pedal when finishing my ride and park in front of my place and it has not given in any way.
It is raining all the time, but I got a dry window today and it was also almost 10°c so I took the bigger fully for a ride to see how the "new" bars work and they are great, but I wish I could have the seat an inch further back. Otherwise it rides really sweet on these tires. The pedals are a revelation, I never rode such pedals before, they are big and the pins give great grip.
I wanted to test ride it and see if I want to trim the bars an inch on each side, but they are good at this width so I later put the grips on.
It needs a front light though.
I went through my parts and found fenders for the smaller fully so I mounted them according to the weather. I normally don't like fenders or any body work for that matter on my bikes (I appreciate when others do something cool with it), but I hate even more having a wet behind. I also found my seat post shims so I could use one with the right size. They are also longer than the ones I used before, which were also thinner so I had to use two, which probably contributed to them not holding well enough. I was forced to reposition the taillight because it was in the way of the fender strut.
Now I will hope for a dry day to ride the Torch.
I wanted to test ride it and see if I want to trim the bars an inch on each side, but they are good at this width so I later put the grips on.
It needs a front light though.
I went through my parts and found fenders for the smaller fully so I mounted them according to the weather. I normally don't like fenders or any body work for that matter on my bikes (I appreciate when others do something cool with it), but I hate even more having a wet behind. I also found my seat post shims so I could use one with the right size. They are also longer than the ones I used before, which were also thinner so I had to use two, which probably contributed to them not holding well enough. I was forced to reposition the taillight because it was in the way of the fender strut.
Now I will hope for a dry day to ride the Torch.
After some riding I replaced the seat with this one:
Quite nice, but still not how I want it. It either lacks a bit in height or in length. Today it dawned on me that I most enjoy this bike when I sit lower.
So I had a quick look at dropper posts, which is usually the perfect solution, but even used cost an arm and a leg. For that money I could get a good rear shock. Plus they don't seem to be available in 28,6 mm.
In the end it became clear I simply need a layback seat post. They don't seem to work well with shims and finding one in 28,6 mm is not easy. Having it made would be too expensive when we add oversea shipping.
So I realized that I could use an old idea of mine that I originally used to prevent the seat from tipping over if the clamp fails - where I used an ahead stem as a support for the end of the seat.
I realized that I could use a patent post to attach to the front of the seat and use an adjustable stem holding the seat at the seat clamp spot:
I will use two tightening screws from threaded (fork) stems to run the seat bolt through...
and since they are 22 mm I will use my home made 22 to 1" shims (because the bar clamp is 1") which I will have to trim to width...
Since the seat post is 28,6 mm I won't have to shim the stem, which is conveniently 11/8".
I will need a bolt, a regular seat bolt won't do because they are threaded at the ends only. But it is going to be this basically:
I have easy access to the tightening bolt:
Quite nice, but still not how I want it. It either lacks a bit in height or in length. Today it dawned on me that I most enjoy this bike when I sit lower.
So I had a quick look at dropper posts, which is usually the perfect solution, but even used cost an arm and a leg. For that money I could get a good rear shock. Plus they don't seem to be available in 28,6 mm.
In the end it became clear I simply need a layback seat post. They don't seem to work well with shims and finding one in 28,6 mm is not easy. Having it made would be too expensive when we add oversea shipping.
So I realized that I could use an old idea of mine that I originally used to prevent the seat from tipping over if the clamp fails - where I used an ahead stem as a support for the end of the seat.
I realized that I could use a patent post to attach to the front of the seat and use an adjustable stem holding the seat at the seat clamp spot:
I will use two tightening screws from threaded (fork) stems to run the seat bolt through...
and since they are 22 mm I will use my home made 22 to 1" shims (because the bar clamp is 1") which I will have to trim to width...
Since the seat post is 28,6 mm I won't have to shim the stem, which is conveniently 11/8".
I will need a bolt, a regular seat bolt won't do because they are threaded at the ends only. But it is going to be this basically:
I have easy access to the tightening bolt:
And it worked like a charm.
Unfortunately the seat is quite hard so I will replace it with this one, which is identical, except that it is still intact:
Unfortunately the seat is quite hard so I will replace it with this one, which is identical, except that it is still intact:
